Originally posted by HandyCappedkid If i bought one of those Ford Racing crate engines that has about 320HP would I still be able to go above 400 HP without having to have a crank support or do they already have one?? I'm not really sure what a crank support is, althought got a picture from the name, can someone elaborate a little bit and humor me with what a crank support does and why or if i really need one. Also, how much would it be?
the crate engine is really good for about 330 hp or more with the right stuff, Ford likes to low-bal them, my brother was getting 284RWHP out of a crate engine that was supposed to put out 280 FWHP. as for a "crank support", do you mean a stud girdle? I am attatching a picture of one. You shold be safe with 400 hp, and I would use a small blower to get it.
Originally posted by Terrible Juan Ok, I'm going to probably embarrass myself with these questions but I need to learn somehow, right? I'm barely getting into the whole 5.0 scene.
Pulleys? I have no idea what they are so could someone explain what they do and where they are located? How easy are they to install?
Torque boxes. My friend told me to make sure these are reinforced somehow. He said to have them welded on because they can rip out from hard driving. What is the story with this?
Lowering kits. My car will basically be a city thrasher. What would be a good drop? I don't want it slammed or anything dramatatic.
Suspension. What is a good and cheap way to decrease the amount of sway and keep my tires from squealing when cornering?
Gearing. I've looked on E-Bay for 3.73 gear kits and see different numbers for the type of rear end. 7.3, 7.5, 8.8 are the most common ones. Which one is right for an '89?
I guess that's all for now. Sorry for being a total newbie. The fact that I don't know what pulleys are really bothers me. :o
Pullies are on the front of your motor they are attached to your alternator your water pump your Power steering pump and your Crank shaft, Underdrive pullies are like a gear change, they make it easier for your motor to turn all the accesories.
I would worry more about getting a good set of sub frame connectors than the torque boxes, subframe connectors will make your car much stronger.
I'm not an expert on lowering but i wouldnt suggest going any lower than 1.5 "
a great way to improve your handeling and lower your car is get a set of Eibach Springs.
For an 89 if you have the GT you have the 8.8 rear end
All motors when built should be in steps. For example if you are going to make your car intake more air, it should aslo be able to exhaust more air as well. For the cam questions. A cam swap is not necessary if you are sticking to your stock parts, heads, intake, etc. If anything you should do the cam, heads, and intake all at the same time. It helps to cut down on price for labor and parts.
Beginner Mods should consist of the following, taking into consideration most of beginners are broke(like when I first started) and looking for that little extra umph before they break bank and can go onto bigger and beter things.So here is my list:
1. A good tune up. (Wires, spark plugs,distributor, oil, oil filter, fuel filter.)
2. Bump up timing between 12*-14*(depending on how car likes it)
2. Better Flowing Exhaust(from the headers all the way to the mufflers)
3. Ditch the stock Air Box and get the K&N Filter kit. (stay away from thin Metal CAI kits, defeats the purpose of taking in cold air.)
4. Uprgrading your Gears. (3:73 seems to be the choice for most people)
5. A pulley kit.(some people say it causes charging problems on 93 and earlier 5.0's, some say using your stock alternator pulley fixes that.)
The above should make your car feel quite good from stock form.
When you do break bank, and can go onto the Heads, Cam Intake, that is when your head is going to go into a spin. There are so many choices to choose from. It all depends on how much you want to spend.
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StAnGaHoLiC
'95GT, S Trim, 306, AFR 185's, RPM intake, XE270HR cam, and the rest of the bolt ons.
Best run to date with old combo: 12.2 @ 116mph w/ 1.78 60' on ET Streets.
www.flowtechinduction.com <--- He knows cams!
Originally posted by fvpnt0pony92 really? wel my car has a 180 degree thermostat, a 3 core radiator, underdrive pullies and the stock clutch fan and will stay at 180 degrees all day long!! i have had no problems with overheating. i used to but then when i put in a new thermostat it has never overheated...the old one must have been sticking.
Take into consideration where you live when making comments about overheating... There are some of us that live (or drive) through 100+ degrees during the day... Get kinda warm. My Stang has a 190 thermostat, a '93 Cobra aluminum radiator, underdrive pulleys, Edelbrock water pump and it runs warm on hot days. I do plan on getting an electric fan (maybe out of a Benz=more cfm), since the stock clutch fan doesn't draw enough air in bumper-to-bumper situations... like LA/Orange County has almost every day!
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"Mad" Max
1992 LX, thanks to Chicane Sport Tuning and some friends.. it is now wrapped with new graphics and ready to hit the streets AGAIN!!!!
one thing the first list will save you gas and let your acc. live a lil longer so price wise it may be even. but when you add the head half of the first list will follow in the persuit to more hp...so I would say buy them all when funds come avil.
Does anyone have experience of fitting 18-inch wheels on an 1989 or similar Mustang? If so how did it ride/what tyres did u use/did you have to modify the arches?
Im looking into eventually changing to gt-40 heads, with a good cam, and intake. My question is, if i do change all that, larger injectors will be needed, as well as a TB and MAF .. But will i need anything changed on the ECU as well to adjust for all the changes? What size injectors would be reccomended for this application, along with MAF and TB size. I was told an E303 cam was ideal, any other suggestions would be greatly appreciated... Im tired of seeing TA's and SS's dominating around here, Next spring this will have to change...
a good way is to get rid of your a/c condenser and smog pump and run a shorter belt to get more HP.
Change your fan to a electric fan. I have a perma cool can that pushes 2950CFM better then the black magic flex-a-lite fan that only pushes 2800cfm.
Also you can plug the VACUMM line on youre fuel pressure regulator to get exactly 8psi.
did u know that a 79 and older 302 block can take more rpm than our late modle 302's because it has a 28 ounce counter balance and then newer ones have a 50 ouncer. this means the crank is more stable from the factory and they didnt have to put as much weight on the balencer to compensate. so if u want more serious hp wich is ususally found with more rpm , dont bother with these newer blocks look around for one pre 1979 to build up.
Stock short block and cooling system is easily good to 450 hp! I know I have done it and yes in hot wether in NC! It all comes down to the state of tune!!!!!!!!!!!
