Hey Faith...........
Yes, there is a logical reason to mod the engine first. Not only do I have a lot of experience in Paint and Body, but I have a bunch of friends that have built motors after the fact like you're suggesting. First of all, paint, wheels, stereo, etc. can cost EASILY as much as most of the above-mentioned mods combined (I have around $2500 into the stereo in my truck alone). Secondly, this is not Overhaulin', and you are PROBABLY not Chip Foose. What I mean by that is, you probably don't have the absolute best in the industry that will be installing everything. All it takes is one slip with the engine hoist, or a wrench, and that pretty new paint job is damaged. One buddy of mine put a TON of money into rims/tires, stereo and a $3500 paint job. THEN he built the motor. When installing the motor, the ram on the hoist blew, the motor landed on his core support and trashed both it and one fender ruining the paint job. Hell, I've even seen a hoist ram fail on Overhaulin' itself with a big block on it (almost took out a foot if I remember correctly). Unless you absolutely can't STAND the condition it's in when you buy it, I'd go mechanical first, THEN cosmetic. That's just my $.02
I started with easy bolt-ons like cold air intake, under drive pullies, removal of air silencer, etc etc etc... But I most enjoy the exterior, as this is all image and visual. I keep myself clean cut, so ride should like respective. So in addition, new shoes, new hood, and a new wing let me fly down the road! Hey, Why is an opinion valued at "...my two cents worth" but is paid by "... a penny for your thoughts" WHERE DOES THE OTHER PENNY GO? lol
I'm planning to buy the Cobra engine kit for my '89 GT. It has among other things the GT-40X heads, Cobra u/l intake. I bought the car last year and it already had the cold-air intake, and full off-road ex. With that in mind, how bad would the 19# inj, and stock MAF, hold back the engine with the Cobra kit on it. Will it run badly? Would an ajustable fuel pressure regulator solve the problem if it did? Thanks!
Just read a lot of good stuff that frankly I wish I had 4 years ago. So now I have a sweet looking 88 GT vert with all the show bolt on's. (will add pic to profile soon) I even went as far as to new 19lb injectors, fuel pump upgrade, full exhaust, intakes, CAI, TB, pullies, bla, bla, bla.
So now I need to help to make the major decision. (looking for 300-350 rwhp)
Invest in MAF conversion, cam, heads, bottom end refresh (188k miles) and tune
OR
331 carb'd long block?
Ok so there hasn't been a post to this forum in quite some time, so I am hoping some one reads this
I am brand spankin new to the mod world, don't know anything about mods except for the 'paint and exterior' aspects of a car. I am planning on buying a 5.0L mustang sometime next year when I graduate college, I just want to know exactly what the best mods would be to start off with, especially if the motor is stock. I am unfamiliar with the language of modifications so I have not a clue!
Would it be better to own a 4.6L then mod that car or get a 5.0L and mod that one? I have been told SOOOOOOO many different stories that I can't make up my mind. I don't want to go overkill, as I would still like to drive my car on the road haha. I DO however, wanna have a sweet ride. My dad had a 65 fastback that he did up all nice, but I'm not mechanically saavy so I don't have any idea where to start! Help would be greatly appreciated!
hey guys, i just bought a K&n air filter for my 1995 mustang gt. Lately it has been running bad, when i start it up it shakcs. and it feels like its going to stall. and when i rev it black smoke comes out of the exhaust. Any reason why?
What if my 5.0 is all stock and I want the gt alum heads what kind of cam can I use and will these kill my gas mileage. I want the power but need some fuel economy.
I have an '84 GT with a 302, 4 barrel and a 5 speed. It came stock with 175 horse. I saw an ad that claims a 65hp gain with GT-40X heads and that they're smog legal plus I saw it here as being recommended as a great bolt on with a lot of bang for your buck. If I were to bolt those on and leave everything else the same, would it work? I know it wouldn't be optimal, but I'm wondering what kind of pro's and con's I can I expect if I just bolt on some better heads. I'm also kinda wondering if the extra power would make the clutch slip. Thanks in advance for the advice
What if my 5.0 is all stock and I want the gt alum heads what kind of cam can I use and will these kill my gas mileage. I want the power but need some fuel economy.
well a cam isnt exactly your best for trying to get power while trying to save gas. it really all depends on how much power your looking for and how much money your willing to invest.
well if your talking stock internals too, crank and such, most places dont recommend over 400. not over 350 without a crank support that keeps your mains in place.
are u kidding me? everyone up here says the 5.0 87 -92 shortblock is good to 450 - 490 with a bang on tune.
I'm going with a stock 91 and throwing a TFS1cam, TFTW heads and a Saleen/Vortech intake. Then a Novi 1200 SL to finish it off. I'm looking for about 450hp.
I just picked up a free '86 Tbird (150hp,non roller, non MAF, fuel injected non-HO 5.0). I think computerwise the stock injection system is similar to the one in the '86 Mustang. I have a low mileage Ford A-311 camshaft (448/472 lift) with matching anti pump flat tappet lifters that I want to swap into this engine. Does anybody know if the stock fuel injection/intake can handle this camshaft, or would it be better to just use my Performer RPM intake and 4 barrel? I don't have to worry about any smog inspections where I live, so if the stock system is too restrictive, it would be cheaper (and easier) for me to just convert it to carb and use my Accel electronic distributor, than to buy a Mustang intake and computer. Also how much fuel pressure does the injected engine have at the fuel rail? Would I need to install a regulator to cut pressure to around 6 psi if I swapped to a carb, or is it fairly close to that already? Is it possible to just use a stock old style engine mounted fuel pump (with timing cover change) and draw fuel through the stock fuel pump with it's electrical connection disconnected? Thanks
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John
'65 Mustang Coupe (daily driver turned project car)
