That is a big waste of money. All that kit includes is the mass air plug, and 4 wires that come off of it, and some extra wire for splicing. This may cost you $5-$10 from the junk yard off of any mass air ford 5.0(with the oval plug)....Follow the instructions I added, and you will be set.
REQUIRED COMPONENTS: You will need to obtain a Mass Air meter, a MAF computer and the electrical harness for the MAF meter. The meter harness can be purchased from several manufacturers for about 50-60 dollars but you can make
your own if you wish. There are a few EEC's that can be used depending on the car. I've heard it doesn't matter manual vs. auto tranny but I don't know for sure so this is just some additional info for you.
For older MAF computers, the numbers are:
Manual transmission hard top:E9ZF 12A650 AA
Manual transmission convertible:E9ZF 12A650 BA
Automatic transimission:E9ZF 12A650 CA
For later (early 90's I think) MAF computers, the numbers are:
Automatic transimission:F3ZF 12A650 BA
Manual transmission:F3ZF 12A650 AA
Universal EEC:F3ZF 12A650 DA
You can also use the 93 cobra computer:F3ZF 12A650 CA but it requires MAF calibrated for 24# injectors.
The MAF mounting bracket and associated plumbing between the throttle body and the air filter box will have to be acquired from a junk yard or you can rig up your own setup. If you intend the to do the "optional" signals mentioned later, you'll also need to obtain 3 EEC connector pins and some wire.
NOTES: Average mechanical skills are about all that is needed. The only special skill I suggest you have to do this conversion is soldering. Crimp connections are unreliable and could lead to future troubleshooting headaches which you should avoid.
1. EEC REMOVAL
Before you begin, disconnect the battery. Remove the passenger side kick panel. There is 1 screw and a push-in fastener that secure it. Remove the screw in the white plastic retainer that holds the EEC in place. There was a ground wire and a relay, each one screw that I had to move out of the way so I could get the old EEC out. You should now be able to pull the EEC down and out. Once the EEC is out, remove the EEC harness connector using a 10mm socket to loosen the bolt in the center of the connector.
2. MAF HARNESS INSTALL
You'll need to run the 4 wire MAF meter harness through the fire wall on the passenger side. I suggest you poke another hole in the large oval grommet the existing EEC harness goes through located in the upper corner on the passenger side of the firewall. I popped the grommet out of the firewall with a screwdriver
and used an exacto to poke a hole in the thin section. You don't just want to blindly jam something through there because you may cut the insulation on some of the wires and cause future shorts. I then used a wire coat hanger as a snake, poking it through the grommet and coming out by the EEC inside the car. I taped the MAF meter harness to the snake (protecting the EEC pins) and pulled it through from inside the car. Pop the grommet back into the firewall after the harness has been pulled through. I then used some silicone to seal the area where the new harness goes through the grommet so I didn't get any water leaks. Remove the red "H" shaped plastic pin lock in the EEC connector. Gently pry around the plastic pin lock with a pointed awl or small scewdriver working it up and out of the connector. You can't add or remove EEC pins to the connector without removing this lock. Depending on the MAF meter you have, it may have a 4 or 5 pin connector. Refer below for pin locations.
a. The Power (+) wire from the MAF meter harness needs to be spliced into the existing red wire in position #37 of the EEC connector.
b. The Ground (-) wire from the MAF meter harness needs to be spliced into the existing black/green wire in position #40 or #60 of the EEC connector.
c. The Signal (-) wire from the MAF meter harness needs an EEC pin which then gets inserted into position #9 of the EEC connector.
d. The Signal (+) wire from the MAF meter harness needs an EEC pin which then gets inserted into position #50 of the EEC connector.
The locations for pin #9 and #50 should be empty. The pin numbers are embossed into the plastic connector on the back of it where the pins insert. It's a little hard to see but they are there if you look closely.
Please note that the notches shown in the diagram are not the ones seen in the picture. The ones in the diagram are actually keys that only permit the connector to be installed into the EEC one way. Pins 20,40, and 60 are closest to you in the picture. It should be obvious because the pin locations for the additional signals must be empty.
3. MAF METER INSTALL
Remove the existing air filter box cover and tube leading to the throttle body. Install the MAF to the passenger side strut tower which should already have the holes for the bracket. Connect the duct work, tighten the clamps and connect the meter to the MAF meter harness.
4. THERMACTOR PUMP PIN MOVES
You will need to move the 2 signals for the thermactor pump to different locations in the EEC connector. The EEC pins are held in place by a hook shaped retainer that snaps into a groove in the EEC pin. To remove you must pry the hook
back from the EEC side of the connector and either push on the pin or pull on the wire from the back. I used a paper clip and flattened one end but a small jewelers screwdriver would work also. The wire currently in position 51 tan/red needs
to be moved to position 38. The wire currently in position 11 green/black must be moved to position 32. If there is not enough slack for this to reach the new location, you'll have to splice in some extra wire. Mine reached without doing this.
The next 2 steps some consider optional but will generate error codes in the EEC. Others have reported stalling problems without the VSS signals. In my opinion it's worth doing if only for piece of mind and no bogus error codes. In preparation
for these signals, remove the driver's seat and the driver's side kick panel. There are 3 wires that will need to be added for these signals with EEC pins on one end. I suggest you tie them all together and route them as one cable over to the EEC
on the passenger side. I took this opportunity to change the carpet at the same time so I had most of the interior out which
made this fairly simple.
5. FUEL PUMP MONITOR SIGNAL
This signal called FPM2 is used to monitor the voltage going to the fuel pump. It will generate an error code in the EEC if it's not connected but "shouldn't" cause a problem. Splice into one of the 2 pink/black wires going to the relay located
under the driver's seat and insert the other end into position 19 of the EEC connector. Refer to figure 1.
Figure 1 (Relay under driver's seat)
6. VEHICLE SPEED SENSOR SIGNALS
These signals are required for cruise control and as stated earlier, some have reported stalling problems on cars not equipped with cruise so avoid the head-ache and just do it. These will also generate an error code in the EEC if not
installed. These signals come from a sensor that plugs into the transmission. The easiest place to tap into them is behind the driver's side kick panel. There is an 8 pin connector cable which runs back to the driver's seat, across the floor under the seat then back towards the front of the car and then goes through the transmission hump to the sensor. You will need to splice into the orange/yellow wire. The other end of this signal needs an EEC pin attached and this gets
inserted into the EEC connector into position 6. You need to splice into the dark green/white wire for the other connection. The other end of this signal needs an EEC pin attached and this gets inserted into the EEC connector into position 3. Refer to figure 2.
Figure 2 (VSS signals behind driver's kick panel)
7. COMPUTER INSTALL
Put the red H shaped pin lock back into the EEC connector. Bolt the connector to the new MAF EEC and slide the EEC back up in place. Install the bolt for the EEC retaining bracket and any other relays/grounds you may have removed to get the old EEC out.
8. MAP SENSOR
The manifold absolute pressure (MAP) sensor is located on the firewall next to the vacuum tree. Disconnect the vacuum line from the sensor going to the intake and plug the line going to the intake so you don't have a vacuum leak. Leave the port
on the sensor open and DO NOT disconnect the electrical connection to the sensor.
MAP Sensor on firewall
Congratulations! You should now be done with your MAF conversion. I suggest you re-check all your wiring changes at this point before you re-connect the battery to avoid a smoke show of a different sort. Once you are happy that everything is correct, re-connect the battery and start the car. The car may idle a bit rough for a while until it relearns, but severe idle or drivability problems may indicate a real problem.
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1986 GT-Ponies(metallic Grey)-Not trying to build a race car- E-303-E7TE Heads- Summit Racing 9.2:1 Pistons with Valve Reliefs for Cearance-Summit Rings-Clevite Bearings-Mr. Gasket Set(With exception of Felpro rubber Oil Pan Gasket)-Comp Cams Double Roller Chain-Cardone Water Pump-AutoLite 25s gapped to .043-Touring CAI-MAF Conversion with A9L-Summit Racing Off Road H-Pipe w/40 series Flowmasters-Bought the car 100% stock, even with stock exhaust, so Mods will take some time!
Im not sure what its called but I used a connecter I got off ebay, the plug for the mass air meter comes out of it and the connecter plugs directly into the wiring harness then you plug the computer into it, very easy no splicing....
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1988 Mustang GT, TTops, 306, AOD with 4r70w gearset and shiftkit, E303 Cam, Ford Racing headers, BBK H-pipe, Flowmaster Cat Back, 3.73's, Traction lok with F150 spring, Eibach lowering kit, B&M Tork Master 2400 Converter, trans cooler, C&L 76mm Mass Air, Accufab 70mm throttle body, K&N filter, Mass Air conversion, Subframe connectors, Lots of Polyurethane, 210HP at 4500rpm, 272 Torque at 3600rpm at the wheels, best 1/4 mile: 14.12
i bought the plug with the wire for 55 bucks, huge ripoff but we were just about done with the H/C/I setup and this was the last thing on the list. it was the weekend and we didnt feel like going and buying the wire and getting the plug, my buddy's dad had the wiring at work for $.50 a foot. including the computer we did the whole thing for 60 bucks. that included the computer and MAF. it took about an hour or so, i cant remember. changing the wire locations for the computer blows. realistically i could have done the whole thing for under $10, but when your excited, 55 bucks is nothing. haha
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1988 red GT AOD. Mods: Ported GT40P Heads, 3-Angle Valve Job, E303 Cam, Edlebrock Performer 5.0 Intake, 65mm BBK EGR, Professional Products 65mm TB, MAC CAI, 80mm MAF, 24lb Injectors, 255lph Federal Mogul Fuel H.O. Fuel Pump, BBK Shorties, O/R H-pipe, Flowmasters, Dumps, Timing-16*, Shift kit, 4.10 gear, Sub-frames, Aluminum racing radiator, B&M Trans cooler, Pro-Form Upper and Lower Control Arms, Energy Suspension Urethane Suspension Components Recent: MSD 6AL Ignition, Battery Relocation
A lot of people say it was a pain in the rear, but really, its very easy.
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1986 GT-Ponies(metallic Grey)-Not trying to build a race car- E-303-E7TE Heads- Summit Racing 9.2:1 Pistons with Valve Reliefs for Cearance-Summit Rings-Clevite Bearings-Mr. Gasket Set(With exception of Felpro rubber Oil Pan Gasket)-Comp Cams Double Roller Chain-Cardone Water Pump-AutoLite 25s gapped to .043-Touring CAI-MAF Conversion with A9L-Summit Racing Off Road H-Pipe w/40 series Flowmasters-Bought the car 100% stock, even with stock exhaust, so Mods will take some time!
heres the site that i bought my kit from. it came with everything i needed including the computer for around $350-$450 depending on what you want. best deal ive found for a complete kit so far. heres the link.... Performance Parts hope this helps!
i got mine off ebay for $275 complete with engine wiring harness ecu and maf meter (19lb) just removed all my SD stuff and swapped the ECU and new harness in and runs like a dream.
i did this cause i dont like playing with wires cause i know i would mess up something.
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1988 T-Topped GT 5 speed
BBK equal shorties
Pypes O/R X
Pypes Violator Catback
3.73 gears w/ 03-04 cobra track-lok clutch kit
MAF Conversion
K&N Drop in
I traided my computer at napa for a mass air comuter $100 bucks , then got summit mass air meter , then harness
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87 gt speedpro pistons ,arp bolts,tf stage 1 cam,ported and polish e7 head with new tf springs ,valve job,7/16 stud mount roller rockers ,push rod guids, typhoon intake (gasket matched),70mm throttle body , 75mm summit maf for cold air, bbk cold air kit new computer for mass air swap, headers bossani off road x pipe flowmaster back 3 hook upr quadrant with firewall adj king cobra clutch 3:73 rear 3g 130 amp alt short shifter , k member brace,str tower brace and subframe connectors .
Speed Density to MAF Conversion 
