Locate the SPOUT connector, '86-93 Mustangs have it in the TFI module harness near the connector
Remove the SPOUT connector jumper plug and secure it. see attached pic Start the engine and bring it to operating temperature. Using the timing light, set initial to the setting you would like to test, rotating the distributor CW will advance timing, and CCW will retard timing. 10° BTDC is the stock setting, but you may want to check if 12° BTDC or 14° BTDC will work for more power. Tighten distributor base bolt and confirm setting did not change. Reconnect the SPOUT jumper plug into the connector. Check timing change with the timing light, the reading should be between 20° - 24° BTDC = sign the computer is controlling spark advance.
You may want to verify the new initial setting (if you advanced it to a higher setting) does not cause engine ping. To do so, suggest the following procedure.
Make sure engine is at operating temperature. Find a long straightway for the test. Increase speed to 25-35 MPH and shift into 4th gear. Increase engine load by pressing accelerator pedal ¾ down at first, and at WOT making sure you DON'T downshift from 4th. gear. Notice if engine ping is heard from the engine, if it is, repeat the Initial Timing Calibration, and retard advance 2° from the current setting.
Repeat this procedure until engine pinging condition is not noticed.
In the event you misplace or loose the SPOUT connector plug, a simple jumper wire or clip will work fine. The SPOUT plug is simply a jumper used to allow the ECM to control spark advance, or disconnect the ECM from controlling spark advance; and be able to set initial spark.
NON-EFI procedure......
Locate the timing marks and pointer on the lower engine pulley and engine front cover.Clean the timing marks and pointer. Mark the proper timing mark (see Tune-Up Specifications for the correct timing for your engine) and the pointer with white chalk or day-glo paint. Attach a tachometer to the engine. Attach a timing light according to the manufacturer's instructions. Disconnect any and all vacuum lines from the distributor, and plug the vacuum line(s) with the end of a pencil, a golf tee, or any other suitable object.
Check to make sure that the timing light wires are well clear of the fan assembly. Start the engine.
If the recommended engine idle speed is in excess of 500 rpm, set the idle at 500 rpm for purposes of setting the ignition timing. If the recommended idle is below 500 rpm, do not alter it. In all cases, references in this procedure are for idle speeds with the engine at its full operating temperature.
Aim the timing light at the timing mark and pointer on the front of the engine. If the marks which you made on the pointer and timing mark align when the timing light flashes, set the idle to its proper specification, remove the timing light and tachometer, and connect the vacuum lines at the distributor. If the marks do not align when the light flashes, continue with the procedures for ignition timing adjustment. Stop the engine with the timing light still connected. Loosen the distributor hold-down clamp slightly.Start the engine again, and observe the timing mark and pointer with the timing light. Timing may be advanced by turning the distributor of a six-cylinder engine counterclockwise. On V8 engines, the timing is advanced by turning the distributor clockwise. When the proper timing has been attained (when the paint marks on the pointer and the timing mark align), stop the engine. Tighten the distributor hold-down clamp. Restart the engine and check the timing to make sure that it was not altered while you tightened the hold-down clamp. On all engines, except pre-1968 six-cylinder models, the centrifugal advance must be checked for proper operation. Start the engine and accelerate it to approximately 2,000 rpm. Properly aim your timing light at the mark and pointer. If the ignition timing advances, the centrifugal advance mechanism is functioning properly. Note the engine speed when the advance begins, and the amount of advance which is attained. Stop the engine. On all engines except pre-1968 high-performance engines equipped with centrifugal advance distributors, connect the vacuum line at the outer side of the diaphragm. Start the engine and accelerate it to approximately 2,000 rpm. Note the speed when the advance begins and the amount of advance attained. On pre-1968 six-cylinder engines, any advance indicates that the vacuum advance is in proper working order. On all others equipped with vacuum advance, the timing should now advance sooner and farther than before the vacuum lines were connected. If this occurs, the vacuum advance is working properly. Stop the engine. On dual-diaphragm distributors, check the vacuum retard operation by connecting the intake manifold vacuum line to the inner side of the diaphragm. Start the engine and adjust the carburetor to its normal idle speed. The initial timing should retard to approximately top dead center (TDC) if the initial ignition timing is correct. On some engines, the timing may retard as far as six degrees after top dead center (ATDC). If the vacuum advance (or vacuum retard, in the case of dual-diaphragm distributors) is not functioning properly, it will be necessary to remove the distributor from the engine and have it tested on a distributor testing machine. If either diaphragm is leaking or cannot be calibrated to specifications, it will be necessary to replace the diaphragm unit.
If all vacuum advance and retard units are found to be in proper working order, remove all testing equipment from the engine.
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Reggie
Real Racers Don't Street Race
PERIOD.......
'88 LX Hatch With A Little Of This & A Little Of That...... 10.39 @128 MPH Soon to be faster....
If "how to adjust your timing" isn't already stickied, it REALLY needs to be. This comes up quite often.
When are you going to just write a book and sell it on here Reg. ?
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-1994 Mustang GT... K&N filter,GT40 tubular intake,BBK Full Length Headers,modified midpipe & Flowmaster muffs, timing at 12*. Best time- 14.74 @ 93.16 -Check profile for pics of our car collection! -Member of MBMCustoms Car Club - AmericanMuscle ROCKS!! - "Save a horse, drive a Mustang!"
finally this is a stuck topic too many people ask. anyway, what does everybody have their timing set at? mine is at 16*, run it with 93+ octane and i have no problems whatsoever.
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1988 red GT AOD. Mods: Ported GT40P Heads, 3-Angle Valve Job, E303 Cam, Edlebrock Performer 5.0 Intake, 65mm BBK EGR, Professional Products 65mm TB, MAC CAI, 80mm MAF, 24lb Injectors, 255lph Federal Mogul Fuel H.O. Fuel Pump, BBK Shorties, O/R H-pipe, Flowmasters, Dumps, Timing-16*, Shift kit, 4.10 gear, Sub-frames, Aluminum racing radiator, B&M Trans cooler, Pro-Form Upper and Lower Control Arms, Energy Suspension Urethane Suspension Components Recent: MSD 6AL Ignition, Battery Relocation
finally this is a stuck topic too many people ask. anyway, what does everybody have their timing set at? mine is at 16*, run it with 93+ octane and i have no problems whatsoever.
mine is set @ 14*. i only use premium with no problems.
Can i get some more details about reading the timing. I understand the spout connector and turing the distributor CW to advance but i'm not sure how to use the timing light. I think i need to mark the TDC better. Can someone post a picture of where the timing light is suppose to be lighting up at. Sorry if i sound retarded but when i put a light on it i couldn't find the reading.
i have 89 notchback with a msd 6-al and coil it was at 16* an was pinging real bad so i put it at 10* its alot better but still pings a lil under load i dont kno if its the timing chain an gears are gone... i dont kno if it has a cam in it so what should i try
Start by getting a timing light on it and watch the mark @ idle. If it's jumping around then the chain and gears need to be replaced. If it's nice and stable then it's good to go and your issue is elsewhere.