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Unread 11-07-2008   #1 (permalink)
RLG34750
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Default How to adjust roller rockers.....

1. Remove the valve covers, and pick a cylinder you are going to set the pre-load on. Only do one cylinder at a time.

2. Rotate the engine in its normal direction of rotation (clockwise) and watch the exhaust valve on that particular cylinder. When the exhaust valve begins to open, stop and adjust that cylinder's intake rocker arm.

3. To adjust, back off the intake rocker arm adjusting nut and remove any tension from the push rod. Wait a minute or two for that hydraulic lifter to return to a neutral position. The spring inside the lifter will move the push rod seat up against the retaining lock, if you give it time to do so.

4. Twist the intake push rod with your fingers while tightening down the rocker arm. When you feel a slight resistance to the turning of the push rod, you are at "Zero Lash". Turn the adjusting nut down one half to three-quarters of a turn from that point for street applications. Use 1/8 to 1/4 turn for race applications. Lock the adjuster into position. The intake is now adjusted properly.

5. Continue to turn the engine, watching that same intake valve/rocker you just set. It will go to full open and then begin to close. When it is almost closed, stop and adjust the exhaust rocker arm on that particular cylinder. Loosen the exhaust rocker arm and follow the same procedure described before in steps 3 and 4 to adjust this rocker arm.

6. Both valves on this cylinder are now adjusted, and you can move on to your next cylinder and follow the same procedure again.
 
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Unread 11-07-2008   #2 (permalink)
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Thanks Reggie great post was wondering how the easy way to do this was last week. The books make it sound hard, but that sounds simple enough.
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Unread 11-07-2008   #3 (permalink)
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Is there anything in particular that would happen that would lead to wanting to adjust the rockers?
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Unread 11-07-2008   #4 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Masshole View Post
Is there anything in particular that would happen that would lead to wanting to adjust the rockers?
every so often they will back off....

and also good info when installing new ones.....
 
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Unread 11-07-2008   #5 (permalink)
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Or those with mechanical lifters, you'll be doing this like once a week if you drive it every day.
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Unread 03-14-2009   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rlg34750 View Post
1. Remove the valve covers, and pick a cylinder you are going to set the pre-load on. Only do one cylinder at a time.

2. Rotate the engine in its normal direction of rotation (clockwise) and watch the exhaust valve on that particular cylinder. When the exhaust valve begins to open, stop and adjust that cylinder's intake rocker arm.

3. To adjust, back off the intake rocker arm adjusting nut and remove any tension from the push rod. Wait a minute or two for that hydraulic lifter to return to a neutral position. The spring inside the lifter will move the push rod seat up against the retaining lock, if you give it time to do so.

4. Twist the intake push rod with your fingers while tightening down the rocker arm. When you feel a slight resistance to the turning of the push rod, you are at "Zero Lash". Turn the adjusting nut down one half to three-quarters of a turn from that point for street applications. Use 1/8 to 1/4 turn for race applications. Lock the adjuster into position. The intake is now adjusted properly.

5. Continue to turn the engine, watching that same intake valve/rocker you just set. It will go to full open and then begin to close. When it is almost closed, stop and adjust the exhaust rocker arm on that particular cylinder. Loosen the exhaust rocker arm and follow the same procedure described before in steps 3 and 4 to adjust this rocker arm.

6. Both valves on this cylinder are now adjusted, and you can move on to your next cylinder and follow the same procedure again.
How can I know when or if the lifter is ready to have the preload set? Can I just wait 2 minutes then go for it? Do I have to take the weight of the pushrod off of the lifter in order for the lifter's spring to return back to the neutral position? Also, I am already running two shims (one thin and one thick), can I run more (or maybe two thick ones) if geometry requires it or would it be time for new pushrods at that point? Thanks!
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Unread 03-14-2009   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Masshole View Post
Is there anything in particular that would happen that would lead to wanting to adjust the rockers?
erratic vacuum reading, or car runs poorly. This adjustment only applies if you have aftermarket cylinder heads or have installed roller rockers on your stock heads, as i believe the stock rockers simply bolt down and there is no adjustment.
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Unread 03-14-2009   #8 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by vetprowanab View Post
How can I know when or if the lifter is ready to have the preload set? Can I just wait 2 minutes then go for it? Do I have to take the weight of the pushrod off of the lifter in order for the lifter's spring to return back to the neutral position? Also, I am already running two shims (one thin and one thick), can I run more (or maybe two thick ones) if geometry requires it or would it be time for new pushrods at that point? Thanks!

The preload is set by counting how far the bolt turns, from when the rocker first makes good contact with the valve tip and the pushrod, until the torque wrench clicks off at 21 lb/ft because the bolt is tight. Because all Ford pedestal mount heads use the same thread pitch for the pedestal bolts, counting turns is equivalent to measuring preload distance.

Make sure the cylinder is at Top Dead Center on the compression stroke (both lifters down, both valves closed). Turn the pedestal bolt by hand (no wrench) until the bolt is snug and the pushrod is seated in the lifter. Next, put the torque wrench on the bolt and slowly turn until it clicks. The wrench should turn between 1/2 and 1 turn. If it turns more than that you need to add a shim. If it turns less than that you need longer pushrods.
 
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Unread 03-16-2009   #9 (permalink)
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Thanks Reggie.
I think I have found the sweet spot. I have the torque wrench set to 19 foot pounds which equals almost exactly 1/2 turn past zero lash. This puts a nice thin and centrally located contact patch on the top of the valve. The only thing that still concerns me is that after torquing the bolts down I can easily rock the rocker arm backwards towards the push rod as If I'm mannually compressing the lifter. Some rockers rotate backwards a little bit more than others.
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