hey have a question for you guys, all the show mustangs i see don't have any wiring in the engine bay. i always wondered how they do that, and i wanna do it myself. All the clustered wiring in my engine bay makes it look kinda bad. I was wondering how they get rid of all the wires... do they feed them through the fender walls??? or what? ummm and also is it hard to do? and can i do it at home? and if not, how much does it cost to get it done? thanks for any info.
Unless you plan on showing your car do not attempt this job.
I did this to my 91 LX. It is not fun . It takes a long time to do. And you better know how to properly splice wires, because you will need to shorten and lengthen some of them.
If you are out to show, and still want to do this, then make sure you have a wiring diagram of your car. Solder, not crimp, the wires and use shrink wrap not tape.
If you can get someone to help that has done this. To pay someone to do the job will be $$$$$$$$$.
I agree with Tony B. I did this once before, and don't think I will ever do it again. In the end it looks good, but getting it there is a pain in the a$$. Unless you want to show the car I wouldn't bother. Wait until Scott replies to this, he has tried (or is still trying) this as well.
I agree with Tony and Jarrett. This is a big job. I started this with my 89 coupe several years ago. While it is not yet completed, due to my relocating to California, it has taken plenty of work and long hours with still more to go. So far I have stripped and cleaned up the engine bay, mig welded unnecessary holes, sanded down and smoothed out the inner panels and then primed and painted. I will be rerouting the wires thru the inner fender wells, relocating the coil, mass air meter as well as a few other things. If you intend to do this, as Tony pointed out, make sure you have the wiring diagram, mark all the wires as you disassemble and be prepared to do some cutting and soldering. Click on the following link to check out some pictures of the engine bay of my 89 coupe as we reinstalled the engine.
This is a really nice project if you want to have a cleaned up show quality engine bay. I stress the word Project because this is definately not a quick weekend job. I do not mean to discourage you but instead just let you know it can be alot of time and work to accomplish. I hope the finished result of all my hard work, will be worth the time and effort it has taken.
Hope this is of some help and keep us posted as to what you decide.
I was just kidding buddy Really looks good. Man! that's allot of work. I fire-up the welder tonight. That's allot of holes to weld <img src=http://www.ezboard.com/intl/aenglish/images/emoticons/ohwell.gif ALT=":\"> I Have to get ready for Knott's.
wow! that looks really awesome scott! and sure as hell does look like A LOT of work.... think im gonna leave this project til a little further down the line... thanks for all the help though!
I am currently wanting to clean up my enine compartment. Looking at hiding the wiring harness and moving the battery to the rear of the car. Any tips or pics? Thanks for the help.
you can, but it is allot of work, I would get a high quality relocation kit and an optima battery, the battery relocation is not too bad, but hiding the wireing can get complicated.
Moving the battery to the rear is an excellent idea and you should notice the difference it makes. In my 89 coupe, I moved it to the passenger side rear. As Twister pointed out make sure you go with a high quality kit and make sure it is installed properly.
With regard to cleaning up a 5.0 engine bay, twister is also correct in saying it is alot of work. Of course, how much work depends on how far you want to go with it. In my 89 I decided to go for the full meal deal and mig fill all of the inner body panel holes that are no longer required, rerun the wiring on the inside of the fender wells and relocate a few things such as the coil and battery. I als removed the front end, sanded and painted cross member and cleaned up/detailed steering rack and front end components. If I had my time back I don't think I would have been so ambisious. Here are a few pictures of the engine install. You can get a pretty good view of the engine bay. As I said, its alot of work
Best way to hide the wiring is to close the hood. Hiding the wiring to me is like puting crome under your hood. What's the point you can't see it when you driving.
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Black,79 Mustang mostly carbon fiber/kevlar body, M-2300-k brake kit, full roll cage, maximum motorsport suspension, custom geared 6 speed, 2 inch rear fender flares, 1 inch front, motor being built (no eta). Looks like the Mad Max interseptor and weighs about 1800lbs w/o motor (450hp 351w installed to move the car around)
Black, 82 Capri RS 5.0L, B303, 1.7 rockers, World 180 heads, +150hp N.O.S, Turbo coupe rear end, T-56(tremec tko would be beter), 80 cobra nose
Awww...come on Max, everyone likes a nice engine bay. In order to clean up all your wiring, you have to take the fenders off, and re-run all the wiring behind the fenders and firewall. It's a lot of work. I wouldn't do it unless you are good with a soldering iron and heat shrink. It's my next project though. When I get a tubular K-member, I'm going to take the fenders off along with the front suspension and the motor. While I'm there, I'll get the engine bay sandblasted, holed mig welded up, cleaned up, then painted. Before the body work under the hood, I'm going to change all the wiring location so you can't see a wire.
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89 GT Convertible 306, Port Polished GT40 Aluminum Heads,Self polished GT40 Upper and lower Intake, 30 lbs injectors, carter intank fuel pump, bosch piggyback inline fuel pump, Intercooled Procharger, Southside lower rear control arms, suspension technik lowering springs, tokico rear shocks, 4:11 gears, aluminum driveshaft, weld in subframe connectors
It is allot of work!!! You will be shortening some wires and lengthing others. every wire will need to be soldered and shrink wrapped. There is no skimping here!
If you are at all unsure of your abilities, then don't do it or have someone help.
It had taken a whole weekend for me to do mine clean and right. TAKE YOUR TIME! Check it, check it again, then when your done check it again.
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Tony Berger
91 LX 337 Incon Twin Turbo
D&D Viper T-56 6 speed
Maximum Motorsports front to rear
94 Cobra
99 Lightning
and it's JUST-N-LX
if your going to go through all that work why would you bondo do it right itll take just as much time with a welder and a hand grinder as it would to bondo and sand it down.
j
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2004 mustang gt
Update: JLT CAI, SLP LM2 catback,
Parts in the basement : To much to list. heres a hint..it involves a watts link and turbos.