Adjusting throttle body - Ford Mustang Forum
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post #1 of 17 (permalink) Old 01-23-2009 Thread Starter
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Adjusting throttle body

wheres the screw at to adjust throttle body and do i turn it left or right to increase the idle speed?
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post #2 of 17 (permalink) Old 01-23-2009
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Its just on the bottom of the throttle body, you shouldn't move it to much, just a little will be alright, if you want to try reseting the idle follow the steps from Ford in the file here....
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File Type: pdf idlesettingprocedure.txt.pdf (145.0 KB, 166 views)

1988 Mustang GT, TTops, 306, AOD with 4r70w gears, shiftkit, E303, FR Shorties, BBK H-pipe, Flowmaster Cat Back, 3.73's, Trac Lok with F150 spring, Eibach springs, B&M Tork Master 2400 Converter, C&L 76mm Mass Air, Accufab 70mm TB, TMoss Ported Explorer Intake, K&N Air, Wix Oil, Mass Air, Subframe connectors, Poly Bushings, AFR 165 Heads, 24lb injectors, Scorpin 1.6 RR = 270HP, 296TQ at the tires.
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post #3 of 17 (permalink) Old 01-24-2009
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Summarized Base Idle Reset Procedure..... no need to set the TPS closed throttle value to any specific value, as long as it's within the .7 - 1.0 vdc range. LUK

ACRONYMS:
LUK=Let Us Know, GL=Good Luck, LMK=Let Me Know, JIC=Just In Case, BTSTDTRT=Been There Seen That Done That Repaired That, YCYDYP=Your Car Your Dough Your Prerogative and the classic... DILLIGAS=Do I Look Like I Give A S***
1986 GT-X303 cam, 289 heads, 1.72, Holley 700cfm DP, RG 4+1 Trans.
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post #4 of 17 (permalink) Old 01-24-2009
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agreed and that procedure does not seem right either - if you set base idle rpm with the throttle set screw, the IAB (IAC) has nothing left to do.

Tom Moss
88 GT 5spd Vert 3:73s, stock H pipe with Flowmaster dumped, Crower 15511 cam @ 110 ICL, GT40P heads & 1.7 rockers, Jet-Hot coated MAC P headers, Holley SM2 intake, 70mm TB, and still SD with 19# Explorer injectors.
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post #5 of 17 (permalink) Old 01-24-2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tmoss View Post
agreed and that procedure does not seem right either - if you set base idle rpm with the throttle set screw, the IAB (IAC) has nothing left to do.
Reason why you need to set the base idle as low as possible (650-750 rpms) before reconnecting the IAC.

ACRONYMS:
LUK=Let Us Know, GL=Good Luck, LMK=Let Me Know, JIC=Just In Case, BTSTDTRT=Been There Seen That Done That Repaired That, YCYDYP=Your Car Your Dough Your Prerogative and the classic... DILLIGAS=Do I Look Like I Give A S***
1986 GT-X303 cam, 289 heads, 1.72, Holley 700cfm DP, RG 4+1 Trans.
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post #6 of 17 (permalink) Old 01-24-2009
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Thats the procedure from emailed to me directly from Ford Racing, it helped my idle A LOT when I finally knew how to set it the correct way

In both procedures you do set the base idle as low as possible before reconnecting the IAC...

1988 Mustang GT, TTops, 306, AOD with 4r70w gears, shiftkit, E303, FR Shorties, BBK H-pipe, Flowmaster Cat Back, 3.73's, Trac Lok with F150 spring, Eibach springs, B&M Tork Master 2400 Converter, C&L 76mm Mass Air, Accufab 70mm TB, TMoss Ported Explorer Intake, K&N Air, Wix Oil, Mass Air, Subframe connectors, Poly Bushings, AFR 165 Heads, 24lb injectors, Scorpin 1.6 RR = 270HP, 296TQ at the tires.
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post #7 of 17 (permalink) Old 01-24-2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by new8514 View Post
Thats the procedure from emailed to me directly from Ford Racing, it helped my idle A LOT when I finally knew how to set it the correct way

In both procedures you do set the base idle as low as possible before reconnecting the IAC...
That is not Ford Technical/Service Dept........ the only areas of discrepancy/misinformation there are:

1. The requirement to set the TPS to a specific mythological value of .9xx and,

2. No OEM automotive company will require/suggest the modification of an EFI sensor they designed as "non-adjustable", unless they were willing to accept liability for a faulty design. Which is not true.

IOW..... those two items are simply misinformation. I have set (as early as last week and among many previously) a fox Mustang's base idle correctly, with an E-303 cam, and the TPS read .72 vdc. No drilling/grinding was required. It idles at 750-800 rpms with no surging/stalling issues.

ACRONYMS:
LUK=Let Us Know, GL=Good Luck, LMK=Let Me Know, JIC=Just In Case, BTSTDTRT=Been There Seen That Done That Repaired That, YCYDYP=Your Car Your Dough Your Prerogative and the classic... DILLIGAS=Do I Look Like I Give A S***
1986 GT-X303 cam, 289 heads, 1.72, Holley 700cfm DP, RG 4+1 Trans.
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post #8 of 17 (permalink) Old 01-24-2009
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i set my base idle a little high because of my cam it idles better when cold and when warm it takes a little while for my idle to settle when first started. big G

93 LX, 5.0, aod 3.73,bbk shortie headers, x pipe, pypes 2 1/2" all mandrell bent , carbon fiber driveshaft,70mm throttle body,73mm c&l meter, 24lb hr injectors,b303 cam, crane cobra 1.7 r rockers, electric fan, 6g alt,underdrive pullies,00 gt wheels 17x8 1/4 mile time 12.85. @ 108.96 mph .100% italian
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post #9 of 17 (permalink) Old 01-25-2009
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A piece of advice, it has been my experience in the past that Many throttle body blades don't open all the way when the accelerator is depressed to the ground, have a friend look to see of it's fully open while you press the pedal. If not fully open adjust the throttle cable.
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I agree that the valve doesn't need to be set to .96-.98. I do believe you will have better throttle response if you are closer to .96, my car seems to. I do not respect that you think I am lying to you about where I got these procedures, I doubt your going to have much of a claim of liability on a modified car (original ones probably still idle fine) that is almost 20 years old by now. These directions came directly from Ford Racing, I called them on the phone and they emailed the document to me, either way if you follow the instructions and there are no other problems with your car (vacuum leaks, etc) it works.

1988 Mustang GT, TTops, 306, AOD with 4r70w gears, shiftkit, E303, FR Shorties, BBK H-pipe, Flowmaster Cat Back, 3.73's, Trac Lok with F150 spring, Eibach springs, B&M Tork Master 2400 Converter, C&L 76mm Mass Air, Accufab 70mm TB, TMoss Ported Explorer Intake, K&N Air, Wix Oil, Mass Air, Subframe connectors, Poly Bushings, AFR 165 Heads, 24lb injectors, Scorpin 1.6 RR = 270HP, 296TQ at the tires.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by new8514 View Post
I agree that the valve doesn't need to be set to .96-.98. I do believe you will have better throttle response if you are closer to .96, my car seems to. I do not respect that you think I am lying to you about where I got these procedures, I doubt your going to have much of a claim of liability on a modified car (original ones probably still idle fine) that is almost 20 years old by now. These directions came directly from Ford Racing, I called them on the phone and they emailed the document to me, either way if you follow the instructions and there are no other problems with your car (vacuum leaks, etc) it works.
In no way am I implying, or have I implied, that you are not being truthful regarding the source of that information, I have my yearly FRPP catalog and I know it is there. What I meant to say was that regardless of the source, that is misinformation..... even if it's directly from FRPP.

Again, you don't have to mutilate a nonadjustable sensor, to set it to a value that does not solve anything, or affect performance in any way.... as explained at http://www.allfordmustangs.com/forum...49-post70.html ..... the EEC logic filters its working range as long as the minimum stays within the mentioned voltage window.

ACRONYMS:
LUK=Let Us Know, GL=Good Luck, LMK=Let Me Know, JIC=Just In Case, BTSTDTRT=Been There Seen That Done That Repaired That, YCYDYP=Your Car Your Dough Your Prerogative and the classic... DILLIGAS=Do I Look Like I Give A S***
1986 GT-X303 cam, 289 heads, 1.72, Holley 700cfm DP, RG 4+1 Trans.
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OK, I further understand now, when I did set mine I never had to change the holes on my sensor, but I can image that every car is different and some you may need to..

Do you think there is a specific value that it should be set to...or no value as long as its in the range?

1988 Mustang GT, TTops, 306, AOD with 4r70w gears, shiftkit, E303, FR Shorties, BBK H-pipe, Flowmaster Cat Back, 3.73's, Trac Lok with F150 spring, Eibach springs, B&M Tork Master 2400 Converter, C&L 76mm Mass Air, Accufab 70mm TB, TMoss Ported Explorer Intake, K&N Air, Wix Oil, Mass Air, Subframe connectors, Poly Bushings, AFR 165 Heads, 24lb injectors, Scorpin 1.6 RR = 270HP, 296TQ at the tires.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by new8514 View Post
OK, I further understand now, when I did set mine I never had to change the holes on my sensor, but I can image that every car is different and some you may need to..

Do you think there is a specific value that it should be set to...or no value as long as its in the range?
No specific value as long as it's between .5 - 1.19 vdc closed throttle position (.7 - 1.05 vdc to allow for component/system voltage and temp variations), and the ECM is reset to "recognize" its new minimum value.

ACRONYMS:
LUK=Let Us Know, GL=Good Luck, LMK=Let Me Know, JIC=Just In Case, BTSTDTRT=Been There Seen That Done That Repaired That, YCYDYP=Your Car Your Dough Your Prerogative and the classic... DILLIGAS=Do I Look Like I Give A S***
1986 GT-X303 cam, 289 heads, 1.72, Holley 700cfm DP, RG 4+1 Trans.
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great info. however, where is the IAC located?
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on the side of the TB on the front side

Tom Moss
88 GT 5spd Vert 3:73s, stock H pipe with Flowmaster dumped, Crower 15511 cam @ 110 ICL, GT40P heads & 1.7 rockers, Jet-Hot coated MAC P headers, Holley SM2 intake, 70mm TB, and still SD with 19# Explorer injectors.
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