How To? remove gas tank and replace fuel pump - Ford Mustang Forum
 
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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 02-04-2009 Thread Starter
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Exclamation How To? remove gas tank and replace fuel pump

How do i take the gas tank out of my 89 mustang and put a fuel pump in it?

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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 02-04-2009
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It is actually very easy. Jack the rear of the car up. Where the tube from the tank meets the backside of the fuel door there is at least one screw on the metal ring holding the tube in place. Unscrew this screw. Disconnect the fuel line at the fuel filter. What I do is put the jack under the gas tank (Car is on jack stands) to support it. Undue the two bolts on the gas tank straps. Slowly lower it a couple inches. You will now have to disconnect the wires and tubes at the top of the tank. Continue lowering it and at the same time pull it towards the driver side so the tube will slip out. I recommend putting WD40 on the rubber where the tube goes into the tank. It will slide easier, and if your lucky keep it from tearing up. If you do tear it up you will need to buy a new one or gas will spill out easily when you turn.
To change the fuel pump unscrew the ring were the electric connectors were (This is where the fuel pump is.) I use a flat head screwdriver to turn it...you will see the notches. Make sure you clean the area before pulling it out. From there it is plug and play...you will see how it all connects.

It is really easy and I may have forgot something, but this is the basic how to. You will see as you go what needs done. Remember the black plastic is not the tank, but holds the tank. You do not need to unscrew the screws inside the fuel door...at least I did not on the two cars I changed. (I learned this after I did it the first time.)

Also...the less gas the easier it is.

Good Luck!

1990 Mustang GT Convertible
2004 CVPI
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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 02-04-2009
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****Be sure always to check the top of the tech page****

http://www.allfordmustangs.com/forum...ement-diy.html

Symptoms:
Car will not start although it cranks as normal.
No sound of fuel pump from rear of car "key on -engine off".
You can hear a small "click" near the passenger side when you turn key to "on".
When you crank you get spark.

Tools:
Floor Jack
Jack stands
12" plywood or board
Siphon and bucket (if needed)
1/2" socket w/ (6 or 8")extension (3/8" drive)
5/16" socket w/extension (1/4" drive)
rust penetrating oil
Flat tip screwdriver
Rag
Bucket
Goggles
Hammer
* a very good friend ( you will understand as you read )

Parts:
Fuel pump
Fuel Filter

Time: Approx. 2 Hours



Directions:
  1. Disconnect battery
  2. Siphon fuel if needed. .
  3. Jack up car from rear on center of axle housing . Follow normal jacking precautions.
  4. Support car with two jack stands under the rear axle and near the tires. I had the rear wheels about 5" off the ground. Remove hydraulic floor jack (this is used to help lower the fuel tank).
  5. At this point I removed the fuel filter. It is located in front of the tank centered between the rear wheels. Use flat tip screwdriver to loosen hose clamp that holds filter. Next pry on the white plastic (hairpin) clips that hold the fuel lines to the filter (one on each end). There may be some gas leakage when the lines are pulled, ESPECIALLY IF THE LINES ARE STILL PRESSURIZED. Use goggles, rag and bucket to minimize drippings. The clips come out perpendicular to the lines and there is a triangular tab to pry on. Don't break them unless you bought a new filter (it comes w/ two replacement clips). Pull hose off each end of filter.
  6. While under car it is a good time to use some penetrating oil on the two 1/2" bolts that hold the tank brackets to the chassis. They can be difficult. They are to each side of the filter.
  7. Using 5/16" socket w/extension remove 3 screws inside fuel fill door. I also removed 4 screws on the inside of the panel that hold a rubber cover to the backside of the fill door cavity. There is also a smaller size screw that attaches a bracket to the fill side of the tank. It has a loop that goes around the fill pipe.
  8. This whole assembly needs to be loose to drop the tank. You should be able to pull on this assembly, out of the fill door area, and it should start to slide out of the tank. There is a rubber grommet around the fuel pipe at the tank. You won't be able to pull it all the way out until the tank drops a little.
  9. Try loosening the tank bracket bolts now. If still tight try more penetrating oil. (DO NOT REMOVE THEM UNTIL YOU HAVE SUPPORTED THE TANK).
  10. If the bolts are loose put floor jack under the tank center. Use a piece of wood to lift with to distribute the weight. Once the tank is supported you can remove the bracket bolts. I was able to swing the brackets vertical at the height I had lifted my car.
  11. Disconnect: At the rear of the car at center there is an electrical connector that goes to the pump. Disconnect it.
  12. There is a plastic loop at the front of the tank that the fuel lines run through. I cut this but I guess it could be pulled out of the chassis.
  13. While one guy slowly lowers the tank the *friend*can work the fill pipe the rest of the way out of the tank. The gas tank has to be emptied to below this level or it will run out. Always look for lines or electrical connections that might be binding. The tank may want to drop one side more than the other but it was manageable with two guys. We were able at this point to set the tank on the ground without stretching any lines.
  14. The pump assembly goes in the tank on the right hand side (from back of car) on a high spot on the tank. Clean this area as well as possible to prevent dirt from getting into the tank upon removal. I wiped the area and used an air gun to blow dirt away (good idea!). My assembly was oriented with a red electrical plug towards the rear of the car and the two metal lines facing the front of the car. You can take off the electrical plug by using a screwdriver to pry on the catch clip between the plug and the metal lines. The clips on the metal lines are two different types. One is identical to the fuel filter clips (hairpin). The other has two tabs that need to be depressed. The clip comes out the end of the holder and stays around the metal line. You should be able to separate the flexible line from the metal lines.
  15. The pump assembly is held in with a large locking ring. It has 4 tabs sticking up. You should be able to see the three bent over flaps that hold it on and the notches you have to rotate it to in order to remove it. I used some penetrating oil here also. Using a hammer and 3/8" extension tap on one of the tabs to rotate the ring counterclockwise. Do not use a screwdriver, it just bent the tab. Once the ring is off the pump assembly should be free. In my case I had to rotate the assembly 180 DEGREES to remove it. It has a "z" shape to it and takes some wiggling to remove.
  16. At this point you should be all set. Install pump in assembly and reverse.
post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 02-04-2009
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That is a much better set of directions...consider mine Cliff Notes

1990 Mustang GT Convertible
2004 CVPI
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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 02-04-2009
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It's not too hard, I can understand why you'd have questions before your first time doing it. I did, and it's not as hard as it seems. Best advice would be to have the tank down to 1/4 or lower when doing it, that way it isn't too heavy and when it sloshes you won't be worried it'll land on your head.

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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 02-04-2009
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If you do leave it w/ some gas in it make sure you use a brass punch to loosen the rings, "things that make ya go boom!"

Also, I sprayed mine w/ undercoating to keep from rusting.

You may want to spray the bolts in the straps w/ penetrating oil a few times for a few days before procedure. It also helps to replace the two bolts w/ stainless ones
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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 02-04-2009 Thread Starter
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thanks 4 the info

DELETED:
A/C-Heater Box-Power Steering-Smog-Cruise Control
INSTALLED:
-Long tube Headers-Gt-40 Intake
-Sub Frame Connectors
-Tubular K-Member
V8 swap into a 4Cyl 1990 LX
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