Well my neutral safety switch is not very consistant. It really sucks push starting my car every once in awhile.
5.os aren't light!
I'm sure that's it because I replaced my ignition switch awhile back and still have the same problem. I turn the ignition and no sounds. Push starting does work. SOmetimes if I move my foot on the clutch pedal for a couple of mins it will start.
My questions are:
Is there an easy way to bypass this switch. I always push the clutch pedal down anyway.
If I wanna buy one, Autozone has 2 listed. A Clutch operated neutral switch and a transmission mounted one. What's the difference?
i believe the clutch operated one goes on top of the clutch pedal and the transmission one is mounted for auto's.
on my car, to start it, you have press the clutch in, have the keys in the up (not cranking) position, a toggle switch pressed forward, AND press the unlock button. If either of those is broken from the chain, it wont fire up.
The T5 cars have a clutch mounted switch (hence the name) and a transmission mounted one - nuetral safety switch. Either one should allow starting as they are supposed to be in parrallel.
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Tom Moss
88 GT 5spd Vert 3:73s, Flowmaster catbacks, stock cam +4°, GT40P heads & 1.7 rockers, Jet-Hot coated MAC P headers, 97 Explorer intake, 65mm TB and 19# Explorer injectors. 277RWHP/330RWTQ
yes you can bypass it. I had a problem with my car. It wouldn't start. I pretty much replaced the entire ignition system before I found that the wire from the NSS to the solenoid was rusted through. My car was an auto but I converted it to a 5 speed.
Correct me if I am wrong anyone, but the wire runs from the battery to the neutral safety switch to the soleniod. Just snip the wire that goes to the NSS and run it to the solenoid. Just becareful, cause your car will start in gear.
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1990 Ford Mustang GT
Exterior
Cervini Cobra Grille Insert, Cervini Cobra R Hood,Cervini Cobra Wing
Mods to Car
Tremec 3550 Transmission, King Cobra Clutch kit, UPR Triple Pickup Firewall Clutch adjuster, TFS Track Heat intake for 302 Ford, TFS Twisted Wedge heads SBF, TFS 6.7 pushrods, TFS stage I camshaft SBF, TFS Complete gasket set for Ford 302, Big End Race rockers w/ 3/8" studs 1.6 ratio, Edelbrock 70mm Throttle body, Edelbrock 70mm EGR spacer, Pro-M 75 Bulle
The neutral switch on a T-5 is there to tell the CPU that the T-5 is in neutral. When tring to get the codes from the CPU, the T-5 has to be in neutral or you will get no codes. This is all the switch on a T-5 does. It has nothing to do with starting your Mustang.
If you want to bypass the neutral safety switch, don't go hacking on your wires. Just go to a wrecking yard and find the jumper plug from an automatic Mustang and plug it in. This jumper plug is located in about the same place as your neutral switch
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Tony Berger
91 LX 337 Incon Twin Turbo
D&D Viper T-56 6 speed
Maximum Motorsports front to rear
94 Cobra
99 Lightning
and it's JUST-N-LX
Originally posted by JUSTNLX The switch you need to replace is at the clutch.
The neutral switch on a T-5 is there to tell the CPU that the T-5 is in neutral. When tring to get the codes from the CPU, the T-5 has to be in neutral or you will get no codes. This is all the switch on a T-5 does. It has nothing to do with starting your Mustang.
If you want to bypass the neutral safety switch, don't go hacking on your wires. Just go to a wrecking yard and find the jumper plug from an automatic Mustang and plug it in. This jumper plug is located in about the same place as your neutral switch
Your absolutely right. After posting above I checked the diagram I have and found that the publication (Haynes) got it wrong. I'll correct it.
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Tom Moss
88 GT 5spd Vert 3:73s, Flowmaster catbacks, stock cam +4°, GT40P heads & 1.7 rockers, Jet-Hot coated MAC P headers, 97 Explorer intake, 65mm TB and 19# Explorer injectors. 277RWHP/330RWTQ