ok,im gonna install rear shocks on my 87 5.0 just need a little guidance from the more experanced individuals here im so glad i found this page all of you who have replied have been a great help so im asking again for help,with the ways things are money is a little tight and cant afford to pay 75$ for labor so today im gonna get my hands dirty with the help from my friends here... thanks
Some Ford Mustangs use Torx® head bolts to retain the shocks at the lower mounts. Check to make sure you have the proper drivers before beginning this procedure.
Raise the vehicle and support it safely using jackstands under the rear axle housing.
Open the luggage compartment, or on Mustang 3-door models, open the hatch door.
Remove the trim panels, as necessary, to gain access to the shock absorber.
Remove the shock absorber retaining nut washer and insulator.
Remove the shock absorber bolt, washer and nut at the lower arm and remove the shock absorber.
Vehicles are equipped with gas pressurized shock absorbers which will extend unassisted.
To install:
Prime the new shock absorber as follows:
With the shock absorber right side up, extend it fully.
Turn the shock upside down and fully compress it.
Repeat the previous two steps at least three times to make sure any trapped air has been expelled.
Place the inner washer and insulator on the upper retaining stud and position the stud through the shock tower mounting hole.
Attach the lower end of the shock absorber with the retaining bolt and nut. Tighten the bolt to 55-70 ft. lbs. (75-95 Nm).
Install the upper insulator, washer and retaining nut and tighten to 27 ft. lbs. (37-47 Nm).
Remove the jackstands and carefully lower the vehicle.
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Reggie
Real Racers Don't Street Race
PERIOD.......
'88 LX Hatch With A Little Of This & A Little Of That...... 10.39 @128 MPH Soon to be faster....
Great post by Reg...I just did my struts, rear shocks, and quads this winter myself...I asked a Ford shop how much would it be to do it, manager told me 500 bucks...I said that I have already bought all the shocks and struts and wanted to know just the labor cost...he looked at me and said 500 bucks...anyhow....for my advice......make sure you have a break bar with a swivel head to get to the tough bolts...to do the struts, off with the brake calipers....pay attention to how the rubber insulators came out so u can put them incorrectly...use the same strut covers(unless new covers came with it which I doubt)..I repacked the bearings too....the quad shocks are on the outside of the shocks(toward the wheel)...you will get two thick metal sleeves with each quad....each of these "washers" will go on the inside part of the quad shock(toward the rear end...in other words they go in first) so that you can maintain distance from the regular shock. Without these, your quads will rub the shocks. Took me about two hours to do...the next time I need to do them...45 minutes....saved myself a lot of beer!!! and knew they were done right.. You will see its not as scary to do as you may think.
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1988 GT Vert 70K
BBK Fender Cold Air, Ford E303, Cobra Intakes, Kirban Adj Fuel Reg, FRPP 65mm TB, 19# Explorer injectors, MAF Conversion, TF Valve Springs, BBK Equal Length Shorty's, KYB's all around, Magnaflow 2.5 high flow cats H pipe, American Thunder's, 3.73's, Speedo gear, AOD w/Performance Automatic street/strip valve body, Overdrive A+ Super Servo, 2-3 Accumulator upgrade, Urethane motor and tranny mounts, Smog, EGR and A/C delete