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Unread 05-14-2009   #1 (permalink)
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Default Tachometer needle stuck, 1992 Mustang GT

The needle in the tachometer on my 1992 Mustang GT convertibealways points at 3000 rpm if I accelerate it moves up but never goes below 3000 rpm. What causes it and how do I fix it?
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Unread 05-14-2009   #2 (permalink)
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Welcome to AFM. Did you try diconnecting your battery for a few minutes to see if it re-sets?
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Unread 05-14-2009   #3 (permalink)
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Unread 05-14-2009   #4 (permalink)
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looking like a bad tach,
welcome to afm from big G in cali
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Unread 05-14-2009   #5 (permalink)
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Unread 05-14-2009   #6 (permalink)
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Enjoy the site!! :happydancer:
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Unread 05-14-2009   #7 (permalink)
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Sounds like the gauge is binding somewhere. Does it drop to zero when the ignition is off?
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Unread 05-14-2009   #8 (permalink)
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sounds to me like it's time to upgrade! Happen to me in my tach, i think it's probably worn. But try what already has been mentioned, try to disconnect the battery for a moment, see if it works. i just went ahead and saved some $$$$ and bought a tach. hope it works out.
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Unread 05-14-2009   #9 (permalink)
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I have the same problem. if you find out what causes it let me know the fix, would like to keep the factory tach. I never found anyone that knew what causes it or how to fix it. one of those unsolved mysteries I guess
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Unread 05-15-2009   #10 (permalink)
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ive got a few extra gauge clusters, and extra power window switches and extra hazard light switches and extra headlight switches


if you own a Fox mustang, you will NEED extra stuff bro


Never had that happen, but just take the doghouse off, and then take the plastic cover off the gauge cluster and see if you can move the tach down and maybe turn it off and on and see if itll reset
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Unread 05-15-2009   #11 (permalink)
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If you open the gauge up you have to do it in a clean area with no steel or iron trash around, and no large dust particles. Get a bright light, magnifier, and non-magnetic tools.

Meters have two basic ways they return to zero. One is with a magnetic return that pulls a movable magnet back to zero. This meters have fixed field coils and a movable magnet. The other is a mechanical return using a taut band or spring (these are more delicate and expensive, and normally not found in vehicles).

Five things can stop the movement from returning to the zero position.

1.) Trash in the movement, like a small sliver or chip of steel or dirt. Normally you will find it stuck to the magnet, and normally it is a sliver or chip of iron or steel.

2.) The zero regulator that controls the position of the return (magnet or spring) is not set correctly. There is normally an adjustment for this that rotates the magnet or spring. Almost every meter has this. The zero regulator is normally a small nut that locks down a movable piece that has the spring on it. Sometimes on a moving magnet meter it is a round flat magnetized disk, and it is moved by a nut, a screw, or simply by pushing and rotating the disk if it is riveted in place.

3.) The jewels or bearings have a bad spot or are too tight. Normally automotive indicators or moving magnet meters don't have these adjustments. The jewel or bearing tightness adjustment is normally a small screw inside a hole in the center of the nut that adjusts the return spring. You should be able to gently blow air on the pointer and it should freely move. Never over-tighten the jewels.

4.) The pointer is bent and hitting the scale or cover, or the scale is out of position and hitting the pointer or mechanism that moves the pointer.

5.) Something else electrical is telling the meter to move up off of zero. (almost forgot this one) Disconnect the battery and see if it goes to zero.

If you are careful and work gently you should be able to fix the tach. Otherwise a person who has worked on meters could fix it. A non-zero problem is usually an easy repair if you work slow, clean, and careful.

Tom
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Unread 02-11-2011   #12 (permalink)
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I had the same problem, what I did was take the cluster apart then used two small flathead screwdrivers which I laid down flat underneath the Tach needle. One screwdriver on each side and then I rotated the screwdrivers at the same time, one clockwise and the other counter clockwise which gently popped the needle off of its spindle. I then started the car and revved the engine a few times and then turned it off. I then put the needle back on the spindle and tapped it lightly with the other end of one of the small screwdrivers at zero this time of course, started up the car and viola' it now would zero properly and work through its whole range.
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Unread 08-21-2011   #13 (permalink)
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Bringing this one back.

I have a similar issue. My tach will go to zero with the key on but the moment you start the car it goes to 4000 and stays. It will go past that if you rev it over 4000 but otherwise it just sits there. I have disconnected the battery with the same result after reconnecting it. I have also checked the connections behind it. I really hate to add a aftermarket tach to a car that has one in it already. Was planning on just adding a shift light. But would like to have a working tach.
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Unread 09-07-2011   #14 (permalink)
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I recently bought an 89 that has an intermittent problem with the tach. It will work fine for awhile then quit, then start up again later. I have been looking for a stock replacement but can't find one. Anyone know where they are available?
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Unread 09-07-2011   #15 (permalink)
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Quote:
Never over-tighten the jewels.
Tell my wife that...
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