Milky oil! after changing head gaskets. any ideas?
so about a month or so ago i changed the head gaskets on my 91 fox 5.0. I did everything as i was suppose to as i had a repair book by my side as well as a few knowledgable friends. the thing that i thought was wrong were the intake gaskets them self since i have a cobra intake on it but i believe the stock heads and the gaskets are a little difference. so i got the right gaskets and put them on with all the right torque specs.
The driver side head gasket was blown out at the 8th cylinder. so with everything back together i thought there would not be anymore milky oil but there still is. ive changed the oil a couple times now to see if it was just extra left in there or perhaps a little condensation but its just too milky to be either of those.
one of my friends neighbor said that it might be my timing cover, he said that they can get little holes in which leak into the engine
any idea if this acutally happens or if you think its something else?
did you use thread sealant (teflon paste ) on the bolts that past through the water jacket......
That will get you everytime if you skip this step! Luckily, all you have to do is remove the valve covers to remedy this situation. And change the oil and filter. And while your at it, don't forget about the intake manifold bolts at the water jackets.
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91 LX 5.0,70mm Mass Air,FRPP Underdrives,Radiator,Hoses;UPR Radiator Bracket,Cold Air Intake;JBA's,Steeda High Flow H-Pipe,Flowmaster Super 40's;AGR Rack/Pump; Street Stall Eliminator Torque Converter,Alto Clutches/Kevlar Bands,Super A+ Servo,Trans-Go Shift Kit;FRPP Driveshaft,Transmission Pan,External Cooler;B&M Hammer Shifter;FRPP Strut Tower Brace,CC Plates,Subframe Connectors;Steeda G-Trac;Global West Front Control Arm Bushings,Rack Bushings,S35's,Rear Control Arms,S39's,Traclink
If I remember right, your lower head bolts by the headers are the ones that will need the teflon paste...the ones under ur valve covers will need 30 weight oil....If you have any questions on which bolts gets what on it, take a screwdriver and place it into bolt hole...if the depth is deep, use the teflon, if the bolt hole is shallow, use oil. My advice is if you do this, go back and re torque them all......all over again, and follow the tightening pattern of course.
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1988 GT Vert 70K
BBK Fender Cold Air, Ford E303, Cobra Intakes, Kirban Adj Fuel Reg, FRPP 65mm TB, 19# Explorer injectors, MAF Conversion, TF Valve Springs, BBK Equal Length Shorty's, KYB's all around, Magnaflow 2.5 high flow cats H pipe, American Thunder's, 3.73's, Speedo gear, AOD w/Performance Automatic street/strip valve body, Overdrive A+ Super Servo, 2-3 Accumulator upgrade, Urethane motor and tranny mounts, Smog, EGR and A/C delete
We or whoever is in control of the thread about the head/cam swap "how to" should add that little tid bit in there about the thread sealer. I am getting ready to do the head gaskets in about a week. (arp studs arrive this thurs) but I probally would have forgotton about that if I haddent read this thread. But I am only semi mechanically inclined.. I would have said crap, I forgot.
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"Nitrous Oxide is like a hot chick with an STD. You want to hit it but you are affraid of the consequences."
91 GT convert. GT40P's, Off Road H-PIPE, Flowmasters, 4.10s, posi rear, welded subframes, 70mm TB, TFS Stage 1 cam, 155lph holley pump, Cobra intake mani, ford racing headers, Allum. Radiator, No smog, Freashly rebuilt......
We or whoever is in control of the thread about the head/cam swap "how to" should add that little tid bit in there about the thread sealer. I am getting ready to do the head gaskets in about a week. (arp studs arrive this thurs) but I probally would have forgotton about that if I haddent read this thread. But I am only semi mechanically inclined.. I would have said crap, I forgot.
if you have a haynes or chilton manual it usually spelled out in those
also it is in the installation instructions that come with new heads....
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Reggie
Real Racers Don't Street Race
PERIOD.......
'88 LX Hatch With A Little Of This & A Little Of That...... 10.39 @128 MPH Soon to be faster....
Just to give you all a heads up if doin head replacement for the first time...your ARP bolt set will come with instructions a bit different that your ford manual on torque..though the pattern obviously stays the same. For anyone who cares, I did follow ARP and at the end of the torqueing, went across the valve cover head bolts(in same pattern) and torqued to 80 lbs....everything running great.
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1988 GT Vert 70K
BBK Fender Cold Air, Ford E303, Cobra Intakes, Kirban Adj Fuel Reg, FRPP 65mm TB, 19# Explorer injectors, MAF Conversion, TF Valve Springs, BBK Equal Length Shorty's, KYB's all around, Magnaflow 2.5 high flow cats H pipe, American Thunder's, 3.73's, Speedo gear, AOD w/Performance Automatic street/strip valve body, Overdrive A+ Super Servo, 2-3 Accumulator upgrade, Urethane motor and tranny mounts, Smog, EGR and A/C delete
Its always best to follow the specs of aftermarket fastners when using aftermarket fastners. Ok that didnt come out right...
Lets try it this way. When using an aftermarket bolt or fastner, its always best to go by the Manf. specs. The Haynes, Chilton, and other manuals are generally given or using the Ford(If its a FORD) factory bolt specs. Different bolt and fastner companies have different tolerances.
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89 Coupe
302- Canfield 195's, Comp Cams 1.6rr, Jay Allen Custom Grind, Systemax Intake, 75mm TB, 75mm Pro-M. 24lbs Injectors, Underdrives, Hooker Super Comp headers, 4.10's
Milky oil! after changing head gaskets. any ideas? 
