1986 Mustang GT 5.0 fuel at rail, changed ignition module still no start
Ok so last week I turned my car off and it took a minute or 2 to start just kept turning and nothing then finally started up.
The next day no issues until I'm driving home and it died just stopped getting fuel the engine ran until all fuel was out.
The fuel pump is running, there is fuel at the rail, I wasn't getting spark when I pulled the #1 plug grounded it in 3 places so I replaced the ignition module.
When I replaced the module I didn't have to remove the distributor but I did have to turn it 90 degrees to get the 2nd bolt but I believe i put it right back where it was.
So still no start I have no diagnostic tools and no way to tow it anywhere can anyone give me a list of things to check to diagnose it.
pull the cap off the dizzy, bump the engine around until its at TDC and turn the distributor so that the rotor is pointing at sparkplug wire 1, it should be near the bottom of the upper intake. if its pointed toward the AC pump/ water pump then ur 180 off.
also another thing to keep in mind is, if the module goes out there are also so connections that fry... very poor design, make sure to put plently of dielectric grease on the new module.
-Just my two cents hope it helps
PS. If you do end up pulling the dizzy, make sure not 2 drop the oil pump drive shaft into he pan X( not fun...
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1986 GT Mustang
-Mac Headers, -Glass packs
-BBK Air intake (Amzoil Air Filter) -MAF conversion
-Accufab 70mm Throttle Body -BBK EGR Spacer
-Non catted X-pipe -91 ported 70mm intake -KYB AGX Adjustable Gas Shocks
Last edited by NeMustang; 05-30-2009 at 07:54 PM.
Reason: added usefull info
pull the cap off the dizzy, bump the engine around until its at TDC and turn the distributor so that the rotor is pointing at sparkplug wire 1, it should be near the bottom of the upper intake. if its pointed toward the AC pump/ water pump then ur 180 off.
also another thing to keep in mind is, if the module goes out there are also so connections that fry... very poor design, make sure to put plently of dielectric grease on the new module.
-Just my two cents hope it helps
PS. If you do end up pulling the dizzy, make sure not 2 drop the oil pump drive shaft into he pan X( not fun...
For one when the Module goes out it rarely frys anything. If it does fry something, its not the modules fault, its in the wiring. Second, if the oil pump shaft is in correctly( with the retainer clip) it shouldnt come out. Third, he shouldnt have to pull the Dizzy and find TDC if he didnt already remove it. All he did was rotate it.
Now to the OP, if you have replaced the TFI module, and still get no spark. Its more than likely the Pick-up Coil inside the dizzy. Usually about 25$ at the autoparts store. It does require removing the dizzy, and taking it apart
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89 Coupe
302- Canfield 195's, Comp Cams 1.6rr, Jay Allen Custom Grind, Systemax Intake, 75mm TB, 75mm Pro-M. 24lbs Injectors, Underdrives, Hooker Super Comp headers, 4.10's
That's what I was about to say, the pickup inside the distributor which is also known as the Hall Effect sensor. It's what the module gets its input from, and it's what tells the computer what injector to fire next and for how long.
Does the tach jump around when you try to crank it?
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isnt it when the module goes out so does the pick up coil USUALLY goes out? and also i have a completely stock 5.0 engine never rebuilt and the oil drive shaft did fall out, it happens just cuz it shouldnt doenst mean it wont
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1986 GT Mustang
-Mac Headers, -Glass packs
-BBK Air intake (Amzoil Air Filter) -MAF conversion
-Accufab 70mm Throttle Body -BBK EGR Spacer
-Non catted X-pipe -91 ported 70mm intake -KYB AGX Adjustable Gas Shocks
isnt it when the module goes out so does the pick up coil USUALLY goes out? and also i have a completely stock 5.0 engine never rebuilt and the oil drive shaft did fall out, it happens just cuz it shouldnt doenst mean it wont
Not usually, Ive replaced just the TFI on many occasions, without the Pick-Up Coil being bad. And vise versa.
As far as the oil pump shaft. Youll notice I said "Correctly" installed.
Have you owned that motor since it was built by Ford and installed in the car?
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89 Coupe
302- Canfield 195's, Comp Cams 1.6rr, Jay Allen Custom Grind, Systemax Intake, 75mm TB, 75mm Pro-M. 24lbs Injectors, Underdrives, Hooker Super Comp headers, 4.10's
I changed out the main coil and the ignition module and she started right up. The tach is jumping around when I start it and the plug wires on the right side smoked.
So I have replaced the ignition module, main coil, distributor cap and rotor, plugs, plug wires,
Should I still order and replace the hall effect sensor?
Would a shotty hall effect sensor cause the main coil to fry?
What would cause the wires to smoke (bear in mind they were greasy and loosened because I was about to replace them)?
Replace the wires. And its up to you on the Hall effect sensor. I would get one if it was me. If you start getting the same problems, the Hall effect is where Id start looking. Unless you have a wiring gremlin.
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89 Coupe
302- Canfield 195's, Comp Cams 1.6rr, Jay Allen Custom Grind, Systemax Intake, 75mm TB, 75mm Pro-M. 24lbs Injectors, Underdrives, Hooker Super Comp headers, 4.10's
I am trying to change the pick up coil on my '86 Gt. I have the distributor out an can't get it to come apart. Does anyone have any suggestions or tips on how to get it apart easily?