"Bigger power" meaning what HP and TQ figures exactly? An answer to that leads to which block could be used. Or you could go overkill (like me) and purchase more block (and rotating assembly) than you'll ever need.
With a max goal of 7000 RPM (which you really shouldn't be setting now - max RPM depends on the rotating assembly, valvetrain, and intake and exhaust tracts, not the other way around) nothing really in any 351W is limiting. 7000 RPM is about the ragged edge of a hydraulic valvetrain so solid would be a better idea.
I want to build a 393 stroker . forged crank , rods , pistons . I'm shooting for 550 hp n/a , so I'm pretty sure I'll need to rev to at least 7 grand . So what block ???
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A stock block of early '70s vintage will work just fine as long as the block and rotating assembly is machined and prepped accordingly. If you simply must have a block with taller lifter bores, any late model block will suffice.
why do I need taller lifter bores ? For a roller cam ? I dont care whether is a hydraulic, hyd roller , or solid lifter . I just want the rpm capability .
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Originally posted by Fordgazm why do I need taller lifter bores ? For a roller cam ? I dont care whether is a hydraulic, hyd roller , or solid lifter . I just want the rpm capability .
I didn't say you HAVE to have a block with taller lifter bores.
You were suggesting you required a 'roller' setup. That means roller camshaft and lifters. There are two ways to do that. 1) You utilize a block with tall lifter bores that can accomodate factory roller lifters OR 2) You utilize a block with short lifter bores that can only accomodate a 'retrofit' roller lifter set (which are shorter than factory roller lifters).
And flat-tappet valvetrains are prefectly capable of 7000 RPM. IF a 393 cubic-inch-displacing rotating assembly even needs to be spun that fast to produce 550 HP. Not likely. Most likely a little less than that, with the right package that is.
I think you're pretty safe going with either one. I'm not sure really how much difference there is between the 2 blocks, I know one has a 9.2 deck height and the other has a 9.5, but performance-wise, I think you're pretty safe going with either one.
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Depending on who you ask, pre-'75 blocks are heavier (meaning they're slightly stronger due to more material) or they're all the same (meaning they're all the same strength).
No factory 351W block ever had a 9.2" deck height.
'69-'70 351W had a 9.480" deck height.
'71-'96 351W had a 9.503" deck height.
'70-'74 351C had a 9.206" deck height.
Ford Racing/FRPP and Dart 351W blocks are available in 9.2" or 9.5" deck heights.
Well I was sure as far as halling ass they they would be equal. As far as duribility and a lot of miles would the bottom end in a 4 bolt hold up better?
Originally posted by Acooljt You don't need 4-bolt main dude, you can do justas well with a 2-bolt main. And anyone who says otherwise should be tired up by their testicles.
really i hope you mean with a main girdle. have you ever seen stress cracks on 2 bolt main bolt holes?
of course this is some what cured with arp studs and a main girdle. but no girdle in the world sustitutes for a four bolt block. for what most people run a 2 bolt main is fine. but dont think thats as strong as a 4 bolt.
and no there is no production 351 windsor with a 9.2 deck height. those blocks from dart with the 9.2 are with the cleavland mains. much beefier. nascar setups. hell ya gimme 2
j
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what 351w block is a good choice for big power ? 
