I got the heads off and they want $50 dollars an hour to port them. I'm thinking of doing it myself but I'm a little apprehensive about it. Does anyone know if Sears carries a porting set or who does? Anyone have suggestions? I read a how-to, except I'm still worrierd I'll junk the head. I'll take any pointers. Thanks.
I did mine just a few days ago . make sure you have an electric or air die grinder with a 1/4" shank . A dremel or pencil grinder will work but literally takes 5 times longer . Use a carbide bit for the initial cut and a stone for the final cut . and dont take too much off . I have only done 2 sets of heads so I am by far the leading authority on the subject . I'm sure there are more people on here who will give you some tips . I would do them myself though for that price . At that price you can get a top of the line die grinder and a set of carbide bits and still have money left over jmho
__________________
Never argue with an idiot. They will bring you down to their level and beat you with experience...
If you dont have the tools I wouldnt do it. Heads are expensive and attacking them yourself without any experience would not be smart. I would practice on a stock upper and lower intake to get the feel. You will need different length and shaped carbide bits and a heavy duty rotary tool. A compressed air base tool would be best though.
$50/hr is a little high, but if they do really good work and are quick, I'd go for it.
There are different kinds of porting that someone with a little skill can perform.
The first is port matching, using a set of new gaskets you basically match the size of your intake/exhaust ports to the size of the gasket, this is also done to the lower intake.Also remove exhaust bumps, this is typical of many stock heads, theres a big bump in the exhaust port and you have to remove it. Remove all the material you can from the entrance of the ports but remove less as you get inside creating a smooth transition.
You can also work on the inside of the ports, removing any casting imperfections and smoothing transitions, just be VERY careful with the valve guide boses or just dont touch em.
One more thing, leave intake ports ROUGH, this promotes air swirl and fuel vapors have less chance to stick to the surface. Exhaust ports can be smooth and polished to improve exhaust gas exit and reduce chances of carbon deposits sticking to the walls.
Bowl work and valve jobs require very stedy hands and special equipment, leave to the pro's.
#1 tip: remove the valves prior to any work
#2 clean the heads thoroughly before re-assembly, specially valve guides (you dont want dirt or any type of metal debris in there)
I have done a few heads only following the above guidelines, without a problem.
Guys thanks for all of the input, the heads are just the stock E7s. I'd be tackling the exhaust ports first. BTW,would gt40 springs work on the stock heads? I don't want the springs going soft again for awhile.
removing that bump is a bad idea clean it up but dont remove it completly . Its there to keep the exhaust from rushing back in. heat as we all know goes up and if you are using shorty headers as alot of us are that little bump actually helps keep the hot mix flowing away from the motor. I made that mistake with my first shot at porting.gasket matching all by it self will get you extra HP work on the intake side thats where 5.0's are the most stuffed up. Just matching your intake and heads . and the throttle body and spacer could get you 10 or 12 HP min. For the exhaust side smoothing out the ports does alot more than anything else. smooth = flow. when you port match the exhaust side try to get it nice and shiny.slick is good.
__________________
micheal621.88GT MAF conversion and too many mods to go into.It makes 387 HP at the rear wheels with the clutch slipping at 5200. so 400+ easy
Oh I forgot if you are using a roller cam. crane cams has a nice set of springs and retainers for under $150 I am using them with an F303 cam that has .512 lift but they are rated to .560 lift so you have alot of room to play. good luck and go slowly. you cant put material back and water passeges are everywhere.
__________________
micheal621.88GT MAF conversion and too many mods to go into.It makes 387 HP at the rear wheels with the clutch slipping at 5200. so 400+ easy
All I can say is it takes 1/2 a second of grinding in the wrong spot and your head will flow worse than stock;
Quote:
removing that bump is a bad idea clean it up but dont remove it completly . Its there to keep the exhaust from rushing back in.
Riiiggghhhttt
Thats the air pump hole and when you cancel your air pump (like 90% of the Mustang folk) grinding it off will make a huge difference since the exhaust that clogs up the 302's hp
__________________
Tom...TK Race Heads...www.tkrace.com
Porting...Flowbench...14 NHRA Records
1-888-920-0094 ext 306
Most porters will remove the bump completely (I dont know of a good aftermarket head that has it), and if you have good headers and exhaust they will scavenge the gases so whats the point of keeping the bump.
Originally posted by GTRaptor Most porters will remove the bump completely (I dont know of a good aftermarket head that has it), and if you have good headers and exhaust they will scavenge the gases so whats the point of keeping the bump.
Thank you
Since I'm a head porter I don't say stuff like that cause people think I'm trying to tell them crap so I can get the job instead of telling them to go ahead and try it themselves
But porting isn't something that can be done properly by reading a couple of books and articles and a dremel!!
__________________
Tom...TK Race Heads...www.tkrace.com
Porting...Flowbench...14 NHRA Records
1-888-920-0094 ext 306
With stock cast heads I say what the hell, your not out much if you blow it, what $20 at the bone yard. But some $500 plus apiece aluminum heads, noway I'm going to risk it, thats why I bought mine already done.
Head Porting 
