Need help fast, Starter stuck in on position. 1990 Mustang 5.0 - Ford Mustang Forum
 
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-21-2009 Thread Starter
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Need help fast, Starter stuck in on position. 1990 Mustang 5.0

Just tried to start my car and had the starter Bendix spin away but no engagment of the flywheel. I turned of the key and its still spinning. So I rush to the Hatch and get a wrench to remove the Neg Bat cable and then the engine starts to crank and the keys are in my pocket while I stand in front of the engine

So here I am now. If I have the cble that goes from the starter soloniod to the starter disconnected then turn on the ign. I can tap that wire to the solenoid and she fires up. There is constant voltage on both terminals of the starter solenoid at all times.

So I assume that my starter solenoid is bad and it is stuck in the constant crank mode??

Also I disconnected the small wire on top of the solenoid that tells the starter solenoid to engage to rule out the possibillity that the ign switch is telling the solenoid to engage.

This is a brand new (a few weeks starter solonoid) I'm pissed.

So do you think I need a new solonoid and thats it?? Or is it something else. I'm at work right now and pissed and I missed my lunch. I'm Huuungry

1990 LX, Vortech Sc-Trim, UPR Power Pipe, C&L 76mm MAF, DIY ported upper, MAC 70mm T/B, BBK Equal length shorties, BBK O/R H-pipe, Flowmasters with Dumps, FRPP 4.10 gears, Strange 10 Way Shocks, BBK Springs, Electric Fan, 130 Amp Alt, FRPP Plug Wires, MSD Cap, MSD Coil.
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-21-2009
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Does the small terminal wire have voltage when the Key is off?

If not, and you still have voltage on both large terminals, then the solenoid is shot.

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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-21-2009
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Sounds like a bad solenoid. WHered you get it? Check the 12v signal wire to see if it loses voltage when key is off? If the key operation still works then give the solenoid a tap and see if it stops then drive to parrts store and get a new one prefer not Autojunk.
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Quote:
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Does the small terminal wire have voltage when the Key is off?

If not, and you still have voltage on both large terminals, then the solenoid is shot.

Not sure, but I removed the small wire from the top of the solenoid and there is still power on both terminals of the solonoid. That small wire comes from the ign to the solenoid to engage it correct? Thats why I dissconected it, so I can rule out the possibillity that the ign is stuck and its telling the solenoid to engage

1990 LX, Vortech Sc-Trim, UPR Power Pipe, C&L 76mm MAF, DIY ported upper, MAC 70mm T/B, BBK Equal length shorties, BBK O/R H-pipe, Flowmasters with Dumps, FRPP 4.10 gears, Strange 10 Way Shocks, BBK Springs, Electric Fan, 130 Amp Alt, FRPP Plug Wires, MSD Cap, MSD Coil.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spdjnky_42 View Post
Sounds like a bad solenoid. WHered you get it? Check the 12v signal wire to see if it loses voltage when key is off? If the key operation still works then give the solenoid a tap and see if it stops then drive to parrts store and get a new one prefer not Autojunk.
I got it at Kragen only 2 weeks ago or so. I belive the brand was BWD

1990 LX, Vortech Sc-Trim, UPR Power Pipe, C&L 76mm MAF, DIY ported upper, MAC 70mm T/B, BBK Equal length shorties, BBK O/R H-pipe, Flowmasters with Dumps, FRPP 4.10 gears, Strange 10 Way Shocks, BBK Springs, Electric Fan, 130 Amp Alt, FRPP Plug Wires, MSD Cap, MSD Coil.
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Try to tap on it and see if it quits.
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-21-2009 Thread Starter
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Thats an after thought I had. If I thought of it when I was standing there I probably would have bashed it into the inner fender. LOL.. Hopefully I dont need the receipt, I think they have all that in the computer at the auto parts store. Too bad they are closed right now. I'm at work and I will have to put in the key pop the hood and jump it, to get home tonight.

If I remember correctly the box had that little symbol that says "NASCAR" I hope the ones they sent to them are better than the one I got. LMFAO.

Its funny how I race to the computer and hope to see you two guys or Eagle, Reggie, Samotrx7, and a few others. Is it just me or (dont get all big headed over this guys. lol.) why is it that all our "big dogs" at AFM are all back East

So for now We will pretty much assume its a bad solonoid.

THANKS GUYS.

1990 LX, Vortech Sc-Trim, UPR Power Pipe, C&L 76mm MAF, DIY ported upper, MAC 70mm T/B, BBK Equal length shorties, BBK O/R H-pipe, Flowmasters with Dumps, FRPP 4.10 gears, Strange 10 Way Shocks, BBK Springs, Electric Fan, 130 Amp Alt, FRPP Plug Wires, MSD Cap, MSD Coil.
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-21-2009
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If you can jump the hot wire to the starter and it fires then its a bad solenoid. Im Central and it doesnt seem like anyone lives near me. I have to drive 5 hours to get mine tuned. Maybe we should all live in one of the non rust states. There wouldnt be a dealer around for a 1000 miles. I went to Chicago on Vacation and tried like h*ll to finish mine so I could get it tuned while I was there. Needless to say that didnt happen. Looks like itll be guys weekend next time!
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-22-2009 Thread Starter
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Quote:
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If you can jump the hot wire to the starter and it fires then its a bad solenoid. Im Central and it doesnt seem like anyone lives near me. I have to drive 5 hours to get mine tuned. Maybe we should all live in one of the non rust states. There wouldnt be a dealer around for a 1000 miles. I went to Chicago on Vacation and tried like h*ll to finish mine so I could get it tuned while I was there. Needless to say that didnt happen. Looks like itll be guys weekend next time!
THis is whats funny it seems to be bad, but bad as in its always engaged. If the battery is connected and both sides of the solenoid are connected, then it will crank. The hot side and the "non hot side" of the solenoid are always hot. They are both hot all the time. So I leave the hot side connected to the battery then have the starter cable disconnected. when I want to start it I tap the starter cable to the solenoid. It makes for a hell of a fireworks show. I need a minute or so for my eyes to readjust just to see again. LOL..

I never seen a solenoid break in the "on" position. The tab must be welded in there.

Thanks alot guys this crap always happens at work when I'm not in the right state of mind to start trouble shooting things.

BTW my dinner was a Burrito and a Hot dog out of our vending machine. If I never post again its becuase I died. I wish I could have swung by the house for my break

1990 LX, Vortech Sc-Trim, UPR Power Pipe, C&L 76mm MAF, DIY ported upper, MAC 70mm T/B, BBK Equal length shorties, BBK O/R H-pipe, Flowmasters with Dumps, FRPP 4.10 gears, Strange 10 Way Shocks, BBK Springs, Electric Fan, 130 Amp Alt, FRPP Plug Wires, MSD Cap, MSD Coil.
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Did you get that solenoid replaced today?
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post #11 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-23-2009 Thread Starter
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Yes but on the first crank over the new one fried and its stuck on constant hot on both terminals just like the other on. I started a new thread on it.

Dont know whats going on? There is a short somewhere I guess

1990 LX, Vortech Sc-Trim, UPR Power Pipe, C&L 76mm MAF, DIY ported upper, MAC 70mm T/B, BBK Equal length shorties, BBK O/R H-pipe, Flowmasters with Dumps, FRPP 4.10 gears, Strange 10 Way Shocks, BBK Springs, Electric Fan, 130 Amp Alt, FRPP Plug Wires, MSD Cap, MSD Coil.
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