Hello Everyone!
I just joined the forums and had a question I needed some insight on. I just replaced my failing inner and outer tie rods the other day no problem. They were all VERY worn and loose! Before I had it aligned it pulled to the right fairly hard (tho not the worse I've had). After the new parts and the alignment I thought I would be set to go but it still pulls to the right.
Also, this is with a new set of tires... did the alignment, tires and tie rods all at the same time. Any idea's on what could be causing the pull? It's not the crowning of the road because I can drive on the left side and it does the same thing. Here are the alignment specs they said it was set too.
I've attached the specs....
Thanks!
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1989 Mustang LX 5.0
Daily Driver
169000 Miles, All stock original engine, BBK Shorties,BBK H-Pipe w/ Cats, 3.55 Ford Racing Gears, MSD Ignition, 3 Chamber Flows, AOD Rebuilt with TCI Pro Super Rebuild Kit, B&M Torque Master 2000 Converter, 16" Ponys (225/50/16 Front, 255/50/16 Rear)
Other rides: 1961 Chevy Pickup, 1971 Datsun 510 and 1969 Mustang Fastback.
87 gt speedpro pistons ,arp bolts,tf stage 1 cam,ported and polish e7 head with new tf springs ,valve job,7/16 stud mount roller rockers ,push rod guids, typhoon intake (gasket matched),70mm throttle body , 75mm summit maf for cold air, bbk cold air kit new computer for mass air swap, headers bossani off road x pipe flowmaster back 3 hook upr quadrant with firewall adj king cobra clutch 3:73 rear 3g 130 amp alt short shifter , k member brace,str tower brace and subframe connectors .
Do yourself a favor and check the front springs. I was tearing my hair out for months, trying to figure out my front end, which was pulling to one side, as well as having alot of play in the wheel, and the coil springs were cracked. Replaced them, and the car's tracking is like new.
I had eleventeen different techs check out my front end and alignment, and the last guy who won my business for life, found the problem, and it was kind of hard to find. He had to take the springs out to see the cracks.
If you had those parts replaced, and it's still wandering to the right... and the car is *still* aligning properly on the machine, give it a shot. I went through 4 alignments with broken springs, and every time it came out "within spec" on the alignment report.
I think my find is worthy of a "Sticky"
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Stock 1992 Vermillion Red Mustang LX 5.0 Hatchback wAOD and new 3:73 gears
Do yourself a favor and check the front springs. I was tearing my hair out for months, trying to figure out my front end, which was pulling to one side, as well as having alot of play in the wheel, and the coil springs were cracked. Replaced them, and the car's tracking is like new.
I had eleventeen different techs check out my front end and alignment, and the last guy who won my business for life, found the problem, and it was kind of hard to find. He had to take the springs out to see the cracks.
If you had those parts replaced, and it's still wandering to the right... and the car is *still* aligning properly on the machine, give it a shot. I went through 4 alignments with broken springs, and every time it came out "within spec" on the alignment report.
I think my find is worthy of a "Sticky"
Good advice but not sticky worthy......
yours is not a common problem
sticky's worthiness(common/reoccurring ) are generally based on....
but good advice nonetheless.......
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Reggie
Real Racers Don't Street Race
PERIOD.......
'88 LX Hatch With A Little Of This & A Little Of That...... 10.39 @128 MPH Soon to be faster....
Its really hard to see the specs on that sheet, but if the caster difference is too much, the vehicle will pull in the direction of least positive caster. Caster is the forward or rearward tilt of the spindle and strut assembly when looking from the side of the vehicle. The side with the least positive caster will have the strut closer to straight up and down rather than having the top tilted towards the rear of the vehicle. When you have your struts tilted up and down, the lower ball joints take more of a beating because all of the vehicles weight is on them, where as not all of the weight is on the ball joints with more caster dialed in. Another thing to check is the rear control arm bushings to make sure they are still there. If they are original they might be a little crusty and falling apart.
NM i just got it to zoom in. Yea your caster is split in a way which would cause a pull to the right as i described above. What is more concerning is how out of whack your rear toe is, when its a solid axle. The way it is situated, is the rear is turning left while the front is pulling right. crazy what is known as dog tracking.
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Sr. Master Ford nerd.
saludos caballeros del ovalo azul
My front end does this a little bit ("Dog Tracking") since I had my new Ford rear end installed. It pulls slightly to the right. Maybe there's something that's off a bit in the mounting of the rear axle assembly?
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Stock 1992 Vermillion Red Mustang LX 5.0 Hatchback wAOD and new 3:73 gears
Ahhh... I never really thought about the rear end too much since it's a solid axle. I don't have to much experience with the Mustang 4 link. I'll have to get under there tomorrow and check out the bushings and torque boxes. I'll post some pics if I see anything obvious. I'm almost positive the rear bushings are ALL original and so are the springs. (Add those to the list of things to do... never ending! )
Lespaul666: Wow the springs were cracked?!?! Ive never heard of that... I'll have to look into that too.
All the suspension is stock except for some cheap KYB's that were put on there by the previous owner. I really want to put on the 01' Bullitt Kit but I want to get the stock stuff all worked out before I start throwing parts on there. I put so many miles on this thing that things break before I get to upgrade... but of course... that always a good excuse to upgrade =D
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1989 Mustang LX 5.0
Daily Driver
169000 Miles, All stock original engine, BBK Shorties,BBK H-Pipe w/ Cats, 3.55 Ford Racing Gears, MSD Ignition, 3 Chamber Flows, AOD Rebuilt with TCI Pro Super Rebuild Kit, B&M Torque Master 2000 Converter, 16" Ponys (225/50/16 Front, 255/50/16 Rear)
Other rides: 1961 Chevy Pickup, 1971 Datsun 510 and 1969 Mustang Fastback.
Ahhh... I never really thought about the rear end too much since it's a solid axle. I don't have to much experience with the Mustang 4 link. I'll have to get under there tomorrow and check out the bushings and torque boxes. I'll post some pics if I see anything obvious. I'm almost positive the rear bushings are ALL original and so are the springs. (Add those to the list of things to do... never ending! )
Lespaul666: Wow the springs were cracked?!?! Ive never heard of that... I'll have to look into that too.
All the suspension is stock except for some cheap KYB's that were put on there by the previous owner. I really want to put on the 01' Bullitt Kit but I want to get the stock stuff all worked out before I start throwing parts on there. I put so many miles on this thing that things break before I get to upgrade... but of course... that always a good excuse to upgrade =D
Yep, they *sure did* crack. Found the rears were cracked, replaced them, and a month or two later, while trying to figure out the loose front end problem, took the front ones out, and they were cracked too.
From the looks of it, the factory springs rot(this car was sitting for around a year), and crack towards the bottom of the coils, by the retainers, and this was *all 4 of them*. I replaced them with the stock factory springs, since I didn't want to lower the car any.
There were sections where the rust went right through the spring. Maybe there was a bad batch made in '92 or something lol.
Can you tell me what's involved parts-wise with the Bullitt kit? Does it lower the car any?
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Stock 1992 Vermillion Red Mustang LX 5.0 Hatchback wAOD and new 3:73 gears
Did they do a full 4 wheel alignment, or just a front end alignment? The rear can wander around and cause it to go one way or the other, worn or broken rear suspension parts can cause it to pull.
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Did they do a full 4 wheel alignment, or just a front end alignment? The rear can wander around and cause it to go one way or the other, worn or broken rear suspension parts can cause it to pull.
They can actually do a 4 wheel alignment on a fox Mustang? What is there that can be adjusted in the rear, or is it that they adjust the fron to match the back?
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Stock 1992 Vermillion Red Mustang LX 5.0 Hatchback wAOD and new 3:73 gears
I really want to put on the 01' Bullitt Kit but I want to get the stock stuff all worked out before I start throwing parts on there.
I have those springs in my car now along with bilstien HD shocks and struts from max motorsports. Rides very nice.
Quote:
Originally Posted by LesPaul666
They can actually do a 4 wheel alignment on a fox Mustang? What is there that can be adjusted in the rear, or is it that they adjust the fron to match the back?
nothing can be adjusted in the rear. But your problem may be corrected by re aligning the front end again. The rear suspension needs to be straight in order to have an accurate measurement on the front suspension. If your rear end was out of whack, then you replaced it without re aligning the front, that could be your problem right there.
__________________
Sr. Master Ford nerd.
saludos caballeros del ovalo azul
I have those springs in my car now along with bilstien HD shocks and struts from max motorsports. Rides very nice.
nothing can be adjusted in the rear. But your problem may be corrected by re aligning the front end again. The rear suspension needs to be straight in order to have an accurate measurement on the front suspension. If your rear end was out of whack, then you replaced it without re aligning the front, that could be your problem right there.
The springs you're speaking of, how much does the car get lowered, if you don't mind me asking?
I understand completely now about the alignment. I'm going on alignment #5 is four months time lol. It's all for the better, I guess.
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Stock 1992 Vermillion Red Mustang LX 5.0 Hatchback wAOD and new 3:73 gears
Alignments could be very tricky,many times cars have a rear end alignment problem but most people make it easy they do not brake there head they corr the toe in or toe out and they think that it's all good,But the most important things that a technicien should look at they always forget.Check to see if your front calipers are working fine,check and see if you do not have any power steering problems, make sure that your car's ride is even in the front and in the rear,check your front lower control arms for weak bushings, and check your rear trailing arms for weak bushings, and check your upper rear control arms.if all that is good they tech need to re-doo his alignment. Most of the garages do not try to adjust the camber and caster because you must drill the revit on the front top plates (stock) so they do just the toegood luck
The springs you're speaking of, how much does the car get lowered, if you don't mind me asking?
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the advertised drop is 3/4 of an inch on SN95 cars. My 93 has bullitt springs while my brothers 90 GT has stock springs, and from outward appearance, they look to be almost the same ride height.
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Sr. Master Ford nerd.
saludos caballeros del ovalo azul
1989 Mustang pulls right after alignment. 
)
good luck
