okay so i have no oil pressure, Think oil pump went out...motor will start fine so dont think anything got messed up bad just trying to see how I get the oil pan off and what is the best way to go about it...I need to do it quick home on leave and leaving in a few days...anyone got any pointers or pdfs. thanks
By an oil sending unit and replace that first. They are only a few bucks. Thats the cheapest way to start out and will maybe confirm what you think and maybe rent a gauge to put on it also because the sending unit and or gauge might be broke. To change the oil pump, the motor will need to be pulled.
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"Nitrous Oxide is like a hot chick with an STD. You want to hit it but you are affraid of the consequences."
91 GT convert. GT40P's, Off Road H-PIPE, Flowmasters, 4.10s, posi rear, welded subframes, 70mm TB, TFS Stage 1 cam, 155lph holley pump, Cobra intake mani, ford racing headers, Allum. Radiator, No smog, Freashly rebuilt......
yea make sure its not got oil pressure.....do the lifters rattle or dose it have top end noise ? if yes then theres no pressure....but be carefull how long you run it .....and yes the engine comes out on that kind of change....p/s iv never known a oil pump in a 5.0 to just quit.....
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1988 5.0 coupe 5 speed,blue with white lamans stripes, 355s ,H-pipe,flowmasters K&N filter.smog pump delete.
The oil pressure switch is just a open/close switch. Just check for continuity to ground when you crank the motor. The switch should close right away if your pump is working. This way you rule out the dash gauge and switch at the same time.
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66 Mustang project with Mustang II suspension, EFI 5.0 engine, front and rear disc brakes, modern interior.
The small block Ford oil pumps are notorious for locking up, and twisting/breaking the driveshaft.
Do the easy things first like changing the sending unit and then checking for pressure using a mechanical gauge. If it's still no pressure, the only thing to do is pull the engine out and change it. You can do it with it in the car but it'd be less time, hassle, aggravation, and cursing to just pull it out. Anybody say just raise the engine an inch or two and drop the pan hasn't ever done an oil pump swap with a double hump pan. The engine would have to be raised at least a foot to get enough room to work the pan out, then do the work... all on your back. Just pull it out. You could do this over the weekend.
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first check the oil and make sure its full, if it is then first i would take out the electrical sending unit and hook ip a mechanical gauge just for testing purposes, nothing fancy, next if that shows no oil pressure, i would pull the distributor and spin the oil pump drive shaft, still no oil pressure then the motor must come out
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1989 Ford Mustang LX Notchback,5.0L 5 speed
331 Stroker wuth forged eagle rotater, Scorpion roller rockers, mahle forged pistons, AFR185s,Spec Stage 2+ Clutch,Steeda Sub Frame Connectors with Seat supports,Hurst Short Throw Shifter, Mr. Gasket Hi0-Flo 180* T-Stat,Lunati VooDoo Series cam,Trickflow upper and lower intake,BBK CAI,BBK Long Tube Headers,BBK Off-Road H-Pipe,Flowmaster 40 Series Mufflers,Aluminum Driveshaft,17" Cobra R's,10000K HID's One problem after the next !!
Like everyone has already said be sure you replace the sending unit first just to eliminate a potential easy fix. I just did 2 oil pumps this month alone without pulling the motor, IF you decide to go down that route, first thing is if you don't have or can not obtain a cherry picker than it's not going to happen. You have to drain the oil, remove the steering rack out of the way, disconnect the sway bar end links to swing it out of the way, the heater hoses on your firewall, T/B inlet tube and obviously disconnect your motor mounts. Lift the motor as high as you can, I did mine on the brink of lifting the vehicle after that remove all of the oil pan bolts and drop the pan, you will not be able to remove it but there is space to access the oil pump. While you have it apart remove the oil pump pick up and flush/clean it out with some brake cleaner and clean the bottom of your pan with a rag and brake cleaner until its clean. After that just install everything reverse of removal. From start to finish it took me about 6-7 hours. Good luck and I'm routing for it to be a sending unit .
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93 LX 2.3 to 5.0 conversion. 60% of the time it works every time.
VTEC - All the lag of a turbo............None of the boost
If its Fast and reliable, it ain't cheap.
If its Cheap and reliable, it ain't fast.
If its Fast and cheap, it ain't reliable.
Yeah one thing I learned on my TWO occasions last month is that it really doesn't take a big piece of metal at all to lock the oil pump up, just a tiny little fella will do.
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93 LX 2.3 to 5.0 conversion. 60% of the time it works every time.
VTEC - All the lag of a turbo............None of the boost
If its Fast and reliable, it ain't cheap.
If its Cheap and reliable, it ain't fast.
If its Fast and cheap, it ain't reliable.