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Old 09-29-2003   #1 (permalink)
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Default Main stud girdle and oil pump question

Here's what I got so far for my swap.

Canton 15620 7qt Rear sump oil pan
Canton screw on dipstick
CAnton Pickup for 15620 pan
Melling High volume oil pump
One piece synthetic rubber? oil pan gasket
ARP chrome moly oil pump driveshaft
New oil pan bolts and ARP main cap studs
Canton windage tray is on the way

My question is , should I get a main stud girdle to strengthen the block or is it a waste of $$ in my situation ?

Also, what happens to a car with a 5 quart setup running a high volume pump ?
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89 GT Hatch: Custom M90 Supercharged w/ Ported Trickflow Trackheat Heads, Stage 1 cam, Streetheat lower / Sheet metal upper, Tweecer RT & PLX Wideband, 75mm TB, 1.6 Roller rockers, 3.73s, MSD 6a, Canton 7qt Pan+ Windage tray, 36LB Injectors, 200 amp Alternator, 75mm Pro-Mas MAF, 190lph fuel pump,Spec Stage 1 Clutch,SouthSide LCA's, Pro 5.0 Shifter, Steeda CC Plates / Springs, FMS Aluminum Driveshaft, New T5 w/ 2.95 first gear, Underdrive pullies, Zirgo 3300Cfm Elec. Fan, AFCO alum. radiator
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Old 09-29-2003   #2 (permalink)
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I would go with the main stud girdle. Nothing like some insurance for the bottom end. But I wouldn't go with the high volume oil pump. There has been a few articles about this. The stock pump will do. If you are running a road course then you would need a larger capacity pan and high volume pump. The constant high revs on the engine on a road course and the g-force loads will tax a stock pump.
Otherwise for the ocasional romp down the quarter and some cruising the stock pump will do.
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Old 09-29-2003   #3 (permalink)
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Oh, here is one article in 5.0 Mustang on page 124. The are putting together a Griggs road course engine.
Let me quote "A Melling M68 standard-volume, standard pressure oil pump is used because the high volume pump chews up the cam gear and distributor. With the rpm and bearing clearances in an Al engine, more oiling isn't necessary. If extra coolers, lines, and fittings are on the chassis, then Griggs would use a standard-pressure high volume pump"

Make sense??
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Old 09-29-2003   #4 (permalink)
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So if I was going high volume, I should add an extra cooler or just keep the stock one.

Im 90% sure I have a high volume pump on my setup now (5 qt) and i think it is screwing up my oil pump shaft. When I turn it on, it taps for about 5 seconds cold and during that time I have no oil pressure. Then the oil pressure will move up finally and the tapping will go away.

When cold, the pressure is about 50-53 idle and 57-60 @ 2000 rpm+.

When warm it's a different story. It will slowly drop from the above pressure to 16 psi at idle and about 20-25 @ 2000+rpm. When it is really hot outside and ive been driving around, you can hear the rockers slightly. This is with a brand new motor, brand new heads, new rockers, new distributor, the whole bit.

Can a oil pump shaft be half way messed up , or partially , or does it either work all the way or broken ??

Buddy on AOL (cant remember his AFM name) had a possible bearing problem by the crank and was letting the through, causing the loss of pressure. Hope I said that right.
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89 GT Hatch: Custom M90 Supercharged w/ Ported Trickflow Trackheat Heads, Stage 1 cam, Streetheat lower / Sheet metal upper, Tweecer RT & PLX Wideband, 75mm TB, 1.6 Roller rockers, 3.73s, MSD 6a, Canton 7qt Pan+ Windage tray, 36LB Injectors, 200 amp Alternator, 75mm Pro-Mas MAF, 190lph fuel pump,Spec Stage 1 Clutch,SouthSide LCA's, Pro 5.0 Shifter, Steeda CC Plates / Springs, FMS Aluminum Driveshaft, New T5 w/ 2.95 first gear, Underdrive pullies, Zirgo 3300Cfm Elec. Fan, AFCO alum. radiator
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