1988 Mustang LX Frame Rail Rust. - Ford Mustang Forum
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 01-28-2010 Thread Starter
Apprentice
5.0L Member
 
orange5.0lx's Avatar
 
Joined: Jan 2009
Location: Windsor
Posts: 86
 
1988 Mustang LX Frame Rail Rust.

hey guys, ive had my 88 LX for about 2 years now, well last summer i noticed the passenger side front frame rail was starting to rot out, previous owner covered it in POR-15 to stop the spreading. I know its POR-15 cause the old owner was my neighbour. I got a deal on the car and i love it to death, so im not saying i got ripped off. Thats the only rust spot on the entire car, not bad for being a canadian car.

Below are some pics of the rust. There are no holes on the shock tower, looks like its just concentrated on the main frame rail.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4.../stang2064.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4.../stang2065.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4.../stang2066.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4.../stang2067.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4.../stang2072.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4.../stang2071.jpg

judging by the damage shown, should i be worried ?? i dont really wanna pull the motor this year. LIke i said the rust is right on the main part of the frame rail, hasnt spread to the shock tower. What concerns me is the metal looks like its peeling off in chunks, its been like that since i bought it and hasnt got any worse....i put about 600 miles on the car through the summer, and it never seens rain, also it sits in a heated barn every winter.

should i be worried ?? does it look really bad ??? car steers straight and everything, no strange noises or anything.

what do you guys think?? should i be thinkin about getting another stang ?? or another shell. or is it not as bad as im thinkin and can conmtinue to enjoy it for a few more years then fix it when i start the restoration on it ??

need some opinions from fellow 5.0 owners, and also people who may have similar damage on there car.

thank you in advance, and yes the car was orignally red. and the passneger side in the only bad side..drivers side is almost MINT!


also :: picture of the car to show what i mean by the only bad spot on it is the frame, car is beautiful shape for the 1300 i paid for it (had a dead clutch), otherwise i bought it for 1300 exactly how its shown in the pics, rims and all.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...8/IMG_1528.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4.../stang2137.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4.../stang2093.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4.../stang2088.jpg


again thank you in advance for any responses or advice.
orange5.0lx is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 01-28-2010
Made Member
5.0L Member
 
69fordfastback's Avatar
 
Joined: May 2009
Location: Fayetteville
Posts: 762
 
im gonna tell you, once you have rust its almost impossible to get rid of it. It may not look like its spreading as far as radius, but it is eating deeper and deeper into the frame rail. I had a spot on my floor pan that had a big concentration of rust in the toe section. If it was my car i would pull the motor, and replace the frame rail. Seeing as these are not full frame cars i wouldnt want to take the chance of screwing up the structural integrity. It sounds like to me that the rust does in fact bother you though, and you should take whatever measure you see fit to put yourself at ease. good luck with it though.
69fordfastback is offline  
post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 01-28-2010
Made Member
5.0L Member
 
69fordfastback's Avatar
 
Joined: May 2009
Location: Fayetteville
Posts: 762
 
forgot to say nice car btw...one more thing, these guys are getting harder to come by, and most any car that is 20+ years old is gonna have rust, it just comes with the territory.
69fordfastback is offline  
post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 01-28-2010 Thread Starter
Apprentice
5.0L Member
 
orange5.0lx's Avatar
 
Joined: Jan 2009
Location: Windsor
Posts: 86
 
yea it does bother me, and i dont wanna screw this car up at all....soo i may just fix it, pull it outta storage early and get it done, i have a buddy of mine also a 5.0L owner willing to help me pull the engine.
orange5.0lx is offline  
post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 01-28-2010 Thread Starter
Apprentice
5.0L Member
 
orange5.0lx's Avatar
 
Joined: Jan 2009
Location: Windsor
Posts: 86
 
yea it does bother me, and i dont wanna screw this car up at all....soo i may just fix it, pull it outta storage early and get it done, i have a buddy of mine also a 5.0L owner willing to help me pull the engine.

is this spot common on 5.0ls ? or is my car part of a rare problem ?
orange5.0lx is offline  
post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 01-28-2010
Made Member
2.3L Member
 
SM90Stanger's Avatar
 
Joined: Dec 2008
Location: Canada
Posts: 1,637
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by orange5.0lx View Post
yea it does bother me, and i dont wanna screw this car up at all....soo i may just fix it, pull it outta storage early and get it done, i have a buddy of mine also a 5.0L owner willing to help me pull the engine.

is this spot common on 5.0ls ? or is my car part of a rare problem ?
Dude, the lower strut tower is a common place on all foxes. If you can wack it with a hammer without making a concentrated dent then it is structurally fine. If you want to get rid of the rust as it is now, you need to gain access to the area with the rust. If you have enough room to get a wire brush or sander (Recommended use of a sandblaster to remove rust!) or something then you may just be able to take the header off. If you have time to work on the car, then I would suggest maybe pulling the engine and painting the whole engine bay while your at it. Get a blaster (soda or sand) and get to work. If it turns out that the rust has eaten a hole in the lower strut tower or even the frame rail, DO NOT GO REPLACE THE ENTIRE FRAME RAIL!!! Just patch it up with 1/8" or 1/4" (or whatever thickness they used for the frame) steel.

Steve

1990 2.3T Coupe (Future Thunderstang!)

Currently driving a 2001 KIA Rio Now you can see why I am working my ass off to make ^^ a street terror...
SM90Stanger is offline  
post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 01-28-2010
BOSS Member
5.0L Member
 
ALMOST STK's Avatar
 
Joined: Jan 2010
Location: Prunedale
Posts: 3,997
 
Use 14 gauge steel if your going to repair the frame rail.
ALMOST STK is offline  
post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 01-28-2010
Made Member
2.3L Member
 
SM90Stanger's Avatar
 
Joined: Dec 2008
Location: Canada
Posts: 1,637
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by ALMOST STK View Post
Use 14 gauge steel if your going to repair the frame rail.
Is it seriously only 14 guage (1/16")? That's a shocker to me. I would use 8 gauge (1/8"). The thicker the better. unless you are going for weight savings, lol.

Steve

1990 2.3T Coupe (Future Thunderstang!)

Currently driving a 2001 KIA Rio Now you can see why I am working my ass off to make ^^ a street terror...
SM90Stanger is offline  
post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 01-29-2010
BOSS Member
5.0L Member
 
ALMOST STK's Avatar
 
Joined: Jan 2010
Location: Prunedale
Posts: 3,997
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by SM90Stanger View Post
Is it seriously only 14 guage (1/16")? That's a shocker to me. I would use 8 gauge (1/8"). The thicker the better. unless you are going for weight savings, lol.


Steve

Steve,


Thicker doesn't necessarily always mean better: there are times that using the the same thickness of material (or close to that thickness) is the best way to go especially when it comes to welding up things.

The inner fenders of the engine bay are 14 gauge the strut tower are 12 gauge; I know thats from welding up my engine bay .
ALMOST STK is offline  
Made Member
2.3L Member
 
SM90Stanger's Avatar
 
Joined: Dec 2008
Location: Canada
Posts: 1,637
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by ALMOST STK View Post
Steve,


Thicker doesn't necessarily always mean better: there are times that using the the same thickness of material (or close to that thickness) is the best way to go especially when it comes to welding up things.

The inner fenders of the engine bay are 14 gauge the strut tower are 12 gauge; I know thats from welding up my engine bay .

I never thought about welding with the same thicknesses... good point. I think it looked like the bottom of the strut tower was the main victim of the rust... it is kinda hard to tell with the extreme close-ups though.

ALMOST STK, Did you weld up all the unnecessary "bolt hole" in the inner fender? There are 100's! I am planning on that right away.

Steve (just to change it up, lol)

1990 2.3T Coupe (Future Thunderstang!)

Currently driving a 2001 KIA Rio Now you can see why I am working my ass off to make ^^ a street terror...
SM90Stanger is offline  
BOSS Member
5.0L Member
 
ALMOST STK's Avatar
 
Joined: Jan 2010
Location: Prunedale
Posts: 3,997
 
Yes I did weld up just about every hole on the inner fenders and in the engine bay about 10 yrs ago. I also hid the wires, vacuum lines and brake lines to try to clean things up under the hood.

If you plan on doing any of that this might be of some help?
Welcome to Almost Stock
ALMOST STK is offline  
Made Member
5.0L Member
 
spadoc79's Avatar
 
Joined: Dec 2009
Location: Tallahassee
Posts: 283
 
good luck man...just wanted to say that that orange looks freakin awesome!!

i wanna go fast
spadoc79 is offline  
Made Member
2.3L Member
 
SM90Stanger's Avatar
 
Joined: Dec 2008
Location: Canada
Posts: 1,637
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by ALMOST STK View Post
Yes I did weld up just about every hole on the inner fenders and in the engine bay about 10 yrs ago. I also hid the wires, vacuum lines and brake lines to try to clean things up under the hood.

If you plan on doing any of that this might be of some help?
Welcome to Almost Stock
Wow, way to go man. I actually don't mind the harness too much to spend that much time moving wires around. I am not making a full on show car like yours. But wow, yours looks absolutely amazing.

Steve

1990 2.3T Coupe (Future Thunderstang!)

Currently driving a 2001 KIA Rio Now you can see why I am working my ass off to make ^^ a street terror...
SM90Stanger is offline  
BOSS Member
5.0L Member
 
ALMOST STK's Avatar
 
Joined: Jan 2010
Location: Prunedale
Posts: 3,997
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by SM90Stanger View Post
Wow, way to go man. I actually don't mind the harness too much to spend that much time moving wires around. I am not making a full on show car like yours. But wow, yours looks absolutely amazing.

Steve
Thank you for the complements but believe me it's no show car and I can say that because I've never taken my car to a show , it's a weekend car and an occasional daily drive, the car has over 185,000 miles on it.

orange5.0lx
I have no intentions of Hi Jacking your thread I'm just answering a few questions is all, please except my apology for my rudeness.
ALMOST STK is offline  
Rookie
 
burt289's Avatar
 
Joined: Jul 2011
Location: Coatsburg
Posts: 21
 
Rusted front frame rails 79-93

I am new to the forum but have been interested in mustangs for a long time. My son and I had purchased a 84 gt-350 to fix up with the engine out we noticed that the right frame rail was bad.. We are in the process in reconstructing a replica frame rail with the help of a friend that has a computer control plasma cutter.. We are putting in every hole, making the inter supports to weld in, the top piece from shock tower to the radiator support, sway bar bracket, and the piece inside the shock tower for the k-member bolts. Should be just like the original. 8 pieces total. My question is: Are there any difference in the frame rails from 79-93 and would there be a demand for these if I would offer them for sale?
burt289 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Ford Mustang Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a VALID email address for yourself, otherwise you will not receive the necessary confirmation email needed to confirm, validate and activate your new AFM member account.

Failure to provide a VALID email address, will result in the cancellation of your new AFM member account registration.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in









Random Question

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is Off
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome


1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 51 52 53 54 55 56 57 58 59 60 61 62 63 64 65 66 67 68 69 70 71 72 73 74 75 76 77 78 79 80 81 82 83 84 85 86 87 88 89 90 91 92 93 94 95 96 97 98 99 100 101 102 103 104 105 106 107 108 109 110 111 112 113 114 115 116 117 118 119 120 121 122 123 124 125 126 127 128 129 130 131 132 133 134 135 136 137 138 139 140 141 142 143 144 145 146 147 148 149 150 151 152 153 154 155 156 157 158 159 160 161 162 163 164 165 166 167 168 169 170 171 172 173 174 175 176 177 178 179 180 181 182 183