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Old 04-05-2002   #1 (permalink)
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Default Pics of My CHP/Probe 347 Pro Street Fighter

Ok guys here is a link to quite a few pics of my coast high (Probe Industries) Pro Street Fighter 347 Kit. Slow modems be patient there are 40 pics on this page each about 40k. I would like you guys to take a look at them and tell me what you think about the workmanship. Especially around the heads (Canfield Stage III) and the crank.

Click here for the pics


Let me know what you think.
 
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Old 04-05-2002   #2 (permalink)
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Default Stage III?

I don't know about any other porting shops but my stage III goes right through to the bowl.
Your heades look like a port matck and a bowl blend on the intake side.
The exhaust is a little harder to say with the pics you took,but looks like a stage II.
I would flow those and compare the #s that they said it would flow,and I would bet that they don't match
From memory a stage III Canfields flow 305-315cfm.
But don't quote me on it.
I also have a problem with sharp edges in the combustion chambers,but thats just me.I'm a perfectionist so I'm very hard to please

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Old 04-07-2002   #3 (permalink)
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Default Re: Pics of My CHP/Probe 347 Pro Street Fighter

Dale,

You already know what I think!

And I have heard from my engine balancer. He has some concerns with the quanity and depth of the balancing holes on the crank.

Give me a call or E-mail and I’ll explain. Or if you like I will post what he said
 
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Old 04-07-2002   #4 (permalink)
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Default Re: Pics of My CHP/Probe 347 Pro Street Fighter

Sure post it here that is valuable information for others to read also. I don't think now I'm going to even try and get the car ready for WFC this year. I don't want to rush this and make a mistake by doing so.


Dale
1995 GTS/SC
 
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Old 04-07-2002   #5 (permalink)
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Default Re: Pics of My CHP/Probe 347 Pro Street Fighter

Ok Dale,

His name is Ed. I’ve known him and his work for 15 or so yrs. He said he sees this kind of stuff all the time with places that churn out these “kits” in mass quantities.

He’s first question was, did they 0-balance the crank? Before I could answer he said, “even still they would not have to drill that much”. I told him that they (CHP) ask you 28oz or 50oz balance and you said 50oz, but you did not send flywheel, balancer or pulley. Ed asked if you bought these from them and if they balanced with them. I said you did not and they did not. In a heighten voice Ed said. “THEY BALANCED A CRANK WITH OUT THE FLYWHEEL, BALANCER, AND PULLEY THAT HE WILL USE! Ed got really silent then said send it back.

I went to Ed when I was not satisfied with the usual stroker companies. We started looking at Scat and Eagle kits. He phoned both for me and did not liking the idea of shaving the pistons to get my 8:1 comp. So we went with Scat crank and rods and Wiseco custom pistons. I have a friend (Bob, who looked at your heads) who ran an Eagle 347 kit, which he got through Ed, it is a very nice kit. My pieced together custom kit is only $100.00 to $200.00 more then what CHP charges

Did you get a chance to talk with any local shops?

Anyway Dale I hope this helps.
 
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Old 04-07-2002   #6 (permalink)
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Default Re: Pics of My CHP/Probe 347 Pro Street Fighter

Ok, How do you guys suggest I go about getting CHP to take these back. What is my ammo to make this happen without too much of a fight.

Dale
1995 GTS/SC
 
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Old 04-09-2002   #7 (permalink)
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Default Re: Pics of My CHP/Probe 347 Pro Street Fighter

Dale,

I would start by saying you’re not satisfied with the workmanship.

Point out that the drilled hole are pretty deep and that they are breaking through into each other. I talked with Ed again. He had a thought that most of these cranks are made for 28 oz and that might explain the depth of the holes, but he feels they are too deep even for that. Plus he did not like the fact that they break through. Ed said he would not run that crank.

Point out that the crank was balanced without YOUR flywheel, pressure plate/disc, balancer, and pulley. It has to be balanced with your stuff not what they would have in the shop, unless they sent you their stuff

Tell them you have talked with some shops and have shown pictures.

Give Bob a call. I sent you his number. He had some good questions to ask about your heads

Give them a chance to correct the problem, but be stern. If your still not satisfied, get your money back
 
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Old 04-18-2002   #8 (permalink)
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I had same probs w/ my crank!!!!Looks like swiss cheese>>I had my machine shop balance mine...they said never seen a kit that balanced like that...Let me know how things work out on this...Oh yeah ordered oil pan"7 quart"from them took them 1.5 months to get here"said it would b here in 1 week also said it would clear my girdle doesn't at all"so now i get to take all my mains off to mill some off of the back "rear:side of the girdle
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Old 04-19-2002   #9 (permalink)
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The head port didn't look consistent at all, especially where the pockets were ported. Maybe just the photo, but the crank looked terrible.

The BAD NEWs is I have a 427W kit in the garage by them. I hope its not the same!
 
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Old 04-28-2002   #10 (permalink)
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Your kit looks exactly like mine did. I had to re-balence to whole kit. Be sur to check all the clearences. Every rod, every journal.Dont use that plastigauge crap either. I bought the prostreet fighter forged kit and the crank was swissed, and every rod journal was oversized. Not one of them was 2.123. They ranged from 2.124-2.126. I was about to freak but found out tha tall the rods were all too big also. I will be able to make it work. Also do your self a favor and have all the correct machine work done. Deck the block. Bore with plates, hone with plates, both to the pistons they sent you. I would also buy a girdle if you are staying with a stock block and have the block line bored with the girdle in place. I can not stress the importance of checking everything.

The crank you got looked cast and so did the rods. Hope that was right. Had a friend here in town that ordered the forged kit and "accidently" got a cast crank.

The heads also look like they are WAY off. Another friend of mine has a fully ported set of Canfields from Bennet and yours don't even come close. FLOW YOUR HEADS BEFORE YOU USE THEM! Make sure they are at least close to what probe says they flow.All flow benches are different but not that different. I just bought a set of AFR 205 and you bet your a$$ I flowed them. Right out of the box. Just to make sure they weren't 185 numbers. If you are not flowing 315/240 at .700" lift I would be pissed. My AFR 205 cost me $1600 plus the flow and reciever groove cut. They flow about the same as a friends fully ported Track 1's(a little low on the exhaust side). I will never do business with Probe again. I spent $1860 on the stroker kit and about $400 fixing and checking everything. These kits are nothing short of mass produced piles of crap shipped to you right off the boat from China. Hope it all works out. I don't mean to scare you but its better to save and spend money now than to run it and find out that they won't take back the broken crank.
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Old 04-29-2002   #11 (permalink)
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Big Jay Thumbs up
I second that!

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Old 04-29-2002   #12 (permalink)
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I think Probe is US made but that crank def looked cast to me too.
 
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Old 04-30-2002   #13 (permalink)
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We have forwarded a letter to the owner of CHP / Probe Industries inquiring about the concerns you have raised. You can read the letter at the link below.

Click Here
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Old 04-30-2002   #14 (permalink)
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Default heads

I have to say my t/w heads are ported right through to the bowls and are not even stage 3 something doesn't seem right they look matched and blended, flow them before you bolt anything on and ask your what the stage 3 are supposed to flow , sorry for your hassles man that sucks ! but you may as well be very careful now before you put it all in .as everyone said you need everything balanced to your flywheel and dampner or they must give you the ones they used to balance.

did anyone else notice there seemed to be quite a bit of pitting on the journal areas of the crank which should not be there?
 
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Old 05-01-2002   #15 (permalink)
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Ok, I'm not the lower end expert here. Is there a way for me to tell by looking at the crank if it is forged? I see some people questioning weather I did get a forged one from the pics.
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