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Old 12-08-2003   #1 (permalink)
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Default Am I missing anything with Oil Pan Install?

Am I missing anything while I have the motor out and these goodies coming in ?

Canton 7 Quart Rear Sump Oil Pan (15620)
ARP Chromemoly Steel Oil Pump Driveshaft (ARP-154-7904)
Melling Standard Volume Oil Pump (M-68)
Rear sump Ford Pickup mounting studs (20-950)
3/4" Diameter Oil Pan Pickup for Canton 15620 (15621)
Accu-Seal Oil Pan Gasket 1 Piece (
link here )
Canton Windage Tray (20-930)
Canton Windage Tray Mounting Studs/Kit (20-940)
Spec Stage 1 Clutch (SF-481)

Anything else I should install while I am there. I dont have the $ for a main stud girdle. My rear main seal is brand new. I cant wait to get this crap installed so I can clean out my closet.
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Old 12-09-2003   #2 (permalink)
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may as well add a pilot bearing while you got it all out . And have the flywheel resurfaced if it looks glazed . Other than that it looks like ya got it
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Old 12-09-2003   #3 (permalink)
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I put in a new pilot bearing when I put in the transmission 2 months ago. I'll go ahead and resurface the flywheel for insurance.
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Old 12-09-2003   #4 (permalink)
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got any pics of the engine out? Also, did you change your aim name? You're never on any more.
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Old 12-18-2003   #5 (permalink)
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Did you get an ARP stud kit for the pan? It worked nice on my rebuild. I also learned durning the rebuid to not put the pan on until after I was all done with the gears and timing chain. After dropping a bolt or two into the pan I learned to hard way.

The Canton dip sticks usually end up reading low, meaning you'll put more than 7 guarts in to reach the full level on the stick. Panhandle Performance recommends putting 7 guarts in, then cutting down the top of the dip stick tube (not the dip stick) to bring you to the correct length. There's also a little plug you can press into your old block dip stick hole to block it.

Place playdoo into plastic bag and use it to determine the clearance between the bottom of the pan and the pickup.

Good luck on the rebuld!
John
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Old 12-18-2003   #6 (permalink)
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Well I drove it around for about 10 minutes yesterday. It drove awesome. I am not sure if it's the windage tray effect or the fact that I am using a stock pump now instead of a high volume.

After I parked her , I came back to make sure the gasket wasnt leaking. Well it was leaking big time. Around the front slightly and a lot around the rear seal area. After being pissed off about it, i finally cooled off and called the guys that put it in. I spent good money on a one piece gasket so there wouldnt be a problem.

They took the pan off today and found a hole where the weld should of been in the rear sump. It was small , but still was leaking. Luckily for me, they saw that the gasket had gone crooked so they were at fault for the front part, but the rear weld fix is all I have to pay for.

Hopefully I should get her back late tomorrow or monday. Being without a car really sucks!!

They installed it all without pulling the motor, but had to cut the stabilzer bar that goes to the middle of the K member on the passenger side. He also said something about moving the transmission mount slightly back to get some more room. I paid $253 after tax for the tray installation, oil pan swap, and new oil pump pickup, drive shaft and pump.
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