Need Help Wiring an MSD 6AL-2 - Ford Mustang Forum
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post #1 of 18 (permalink) Old 10-04-2010 Thread Starter
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Need Help Wiring an MSD 6AL-2

I just recently bought an MSD 6AL-2, and I'm currently plotting out my wiring diagram. I found a pretty useful diagram and install instructions on MSD's website. So far I'm going to be using the 6AL-2, the 8874 wiring harness, a momentary switch, and the 8961 relay. The only thing I don't know how to do is wire the 30 terminal from the relay to the neutral safety switch on neutral safety lever.

I'm wiring it this way so that when the clutch is in and I press the momentary switch, the 2 step will be activated until I let off the clutch.

If anyone has a diagram of the neutral safety switch wiring it would be very helpful.

Thanks

1993 LX Coupe
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post #2 of 18 (permalink) Old 10-04-2010
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This is from the 89 Mustang EVTSM.

Last edited by ALMOST STK; 04-19-2015 at 05:34 PM.
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post #3 of 18 (permalink) Old 10-04-2010 Thread Starter
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So according to this I'd wire it to the 32 R/LB wire? I'm not the greatest at reading electrical diagrams.

I don't know exactly where that wire is located.

1993 LX Coupe
Show: Front 18x9 Black Bullit wheels, Rear 18x10 Black Bullitt deep dish wheels, Cervini's 2.5" Cowl hood, Autometer Phantom 10K tachometer, Autometer Ultra-Lite carbon fiber FP gauge
Go: GT40P Explorer motor, Edlebrock Performer intake, AFM 4" Power Pipe, TFS Stage 1, ProForm 1.6's,Granetelli 24lb MAF, MSD Blaster Coil + distrib, Taylor Pro wires, UDP's, GT40p long tube headers, o/r 2.5" H pipe, 2.5" cat back w/ Flowmaster 10 Series mufflers, 3.73s
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post #4 of 18 (permalink) Old 10-04-2010
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What you'll want to looking for is this.
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post #5 of 18 (permalink) Old 10-04-2010
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Oh yeah forgot the attachment.

Last edited by ALMOST STK; 04-19-2015 at 05:33 PM.
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post #6 of 18 (permalink) Old 10-04-2010 Thread Starter
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So it would be one of the wires going into the clear connector I assume?

1993 LX Coupe
Show: Front 18x9 Black Bullit wheels, Rear 18x10 Black Bullitt deep dish wheels, Cervini's 2.5" Cowl hood, Autometer Phantom 10K tachometer, Autometer Ultra-Lite carbon fiber FP gauge
Go: GT40P Explorer motor, Edlebrock Performer intake, AFM 4" Power Pipe, TFS Stage 1, ProForm 1.6's,Granetelli 24lb MAF, MSD Blaster Coil + distrib, Taylor Pro wires, UDP's, GT40p long tube headers, o/r 2.5" H pipe, 2.5" cat back w/ Flowmaster 10 Series mufflers, 3.73s
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post #7 of 18 (permalink) Old 10-04-2010
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It would be the black connector to the right of the clear connector.

Open the attachment and then click on the attachment it will enlarger the picture, that you you can see the red wire with the light blue stripe.
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post #8 of 18 (permalink) Old 10-04-2010 Thread Starter
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Right so I just splice into that with something like a scotch lock and then run from there to a 12 volt power source correct?

Here are the other diagrams from MSD.
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1993 LX Coupe
Show: Front 18x9 Black Bullit wheels, Rear 18x10 Black Bullitt deep dish wheels, Cervini's 2.5" Cowl hood, Autometer Phantom 10K tachometer, Autometer Ultra-Lite carbon fiber FP gauge
Go: GT40P Explorer motor, Edlebrock Performer intake, AFM 4" Power Pipe, TFS Stage 1, ProForm 1.6's,Granetelli 24lb MAF, MSD Blaster Coil + distrib, Taylor Pro wires, UDP's, GT40p long tube headers, o/r 2.5" H pipe, 2.5" cat back w/ Flowmaster 10 Series mufflers, 3.73s
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post #9 of 18 (permalink) Old 10-04-2010 Thread Starter
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The blue wire would go to the 87 terminal which would be jumped to the 85 terminal, which would run to the switch. Then the 30 terminal would run to the Red/Light Blue wire, and that to a 12V source (or is it a 12V source itself), and then the 86 to a ground.

That way I would push in the clutch, hit the momentary switch, and the two step would set. Then when the clutch would released it would break that circuit.

Does that sound correct?

1993 LX Coupe
Show: Front 18x9 Black Bullit wheels, Rear 18x10 Black Bullitt deep dish wheels, Cervini's 2.5" Cowl hood, Autometer Phantom 10K tachometer, Autometer Ultra-Lite carbon fiber FP gauge
Go: GT40P Explorer motor, Edlebrock Performer intake, AFM 4" Power Pipe, TFS Stage 1, ProForm 1.6's,Granetelli 24lb MAF, MSD Blaster Coil + distrib, Taylor Pro wires, UDP's, GT40p long tube headers, o/r 2.5" H pipe, 2.5" cat back w/ Flowmaster 10 Series mufflers, 3.73s
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yeah but the factory NSS is a ground circuit..theres no power to it..just completes a ground circuit to PIN 30 when you push the clutch..not going to work for you

i used a separate switch on my clutch pedal(mounted it on the quadrant actually)

Amazon.com: MSD 8820 Over Throw Micro Switch: Automotive

1987 Notchback - N/A stock 302, TFS heads, Holley Systemax, FTI cam, Astro A5
Best so far: 10.92 @ 123mph with a 1.49 60ft
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post #11 of 18 (permalink) Old 10-05-2010 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by need4spd90 View Post
yeah but the factory NSS is a ground circuit..theres no power to it..just completes a ground circuit to PIN 30 when you push the clutch..not going to work for you

i used a separate switch on my clutch pedal(mounted it on the quadrant actually)

Amazon.com: MSD 8820 Over Throw Micro Switch: Automotive
How did you mount it and where is the quadrant located?

1993 LX Coupe
Show: Front 18x9 Black Bullit wheels, Rear 18x10 Black Bullitt deep dish wheels, Cervini's 2.5" Cowl hood, Autometer Phantom 10K tachometer, Autometer Ultra-Lite carbon fiber FP gauge
Go: GT40P Explorer motor, Edlebrock Performer intake, AFM 4" Power Pipe, TFS Stage 1, ProForm 1.6's,Granetelli 24lb MAF, MSD Blaster Coil + distrib, Taylor Pro wires, UDP's, GT40p long tube headers, o/r 2.5" H pipe, 2.5" cat back w/ Flowmaster 10 Series mufflers, 3.73s
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ok,i had some pics of mine,but i guess i deleted them..so im going to try and explain this as best i could,along with some top notch artwork lol

ok the quadrant is down near the clutch pedal..when you push the clutch pedal to the floor,the quadrant pivots TOWARD YOU,and pulls the clutch cable

here are a few pics of quadrants
in this first pic,its the white plastic thing on the right side..opposite of the clutch pedal
http://image.mustangandfords.com/f/9...+pedal_box.jpg

thats the factory plastic one..they also make aftermarket aluminum pieces as well

ok take a look at the 1st attached pic..the arrows show how the quadrant moves when you push in the clutch,and it basically stops where the red line is..thats where you'll mount the switch,so when the clutch is to the floor,the edge of the quadrant hits the lever and arms the 2step

the second you start to raise the clutch,quadrant backs off,shuts the 2step off and away you go

the 2nd pic is a pic of my car when i had it torn down..i "drew" the switch where i mounted it(imagine the quadrant is in place

i just made a small "L" bracket out of some scrap aluminum,then attached the switch/bracket to the blue sheet metal "pillar" there with some sheet metal screws..

get it close,the you can tweak the bracket by bending it so the switch turns on/off where you want it with your clutch

or you could probably find a way to rig it up on the floor so the actual clutch pedal arm hits the level,but i thought this way was better than having it lay on the floor
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1987 Notchback - N/A stock 302, TFS heads, Holley Systemax, FTI cam, Astro A5
Best so far: 10.92 @ 123mph with a 1.49 60ft
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post #13 of 18 (permalink) Old 10-05-2010 Thread Starter
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I just found this diagram too. Looks like instead of the switch being the one to break or complete the 12V circuit, the clutch switch would be used to either break or ground the whole relay circuit.
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1993 LX Coupe
Show: Front 18x9 Black Bullit wheels, Rear 18x10 Black Bullitt deep dish wheels, Cervini's 2.5" Cowl hood, Autometer Phantom 10K tachometer, Autometer Ultra-Lite carbon fiber FP gauge
Go: GT40P Explorer motor, Edlebrock Performer intake, AFM 4" Power Pipe, TFS Stage 1, ProForm 1.6's,Granetelli 24lb MAF, MSD Blaster Coil + distrib, Taylor Pro wires, UDP's, GT40p long tube headers, o/r 2.5" H pipe, 2.5" cat back w/ Flowmaster 10 Series mufflers, 3.73s
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yeah i guess you could try it that way..never saw that diagram before..wish i did when i installed mine lol
i guess you would just splice into the wires going to each side of the factory NSS

1987 Notchback - N/A stock 302, TFS heads, Holley Systemax, FTI cam, Astro A5
Best so far: 10.92 @ 123mph with a 1.49 60ft
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post #15 of 18 (permalink) Old 10-05-2010 Thread Starter
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Right so that'd be the red/light blue wire. I figure I'll drill a hole for the momentary switch where the convertible top button would be.

All I need is a place to mouth the box without having to move the damn battery and I'll be all set.

Do you know which 12v sources you tapped into?

1993 LX Coupe
Show: Front 18x9 Black Bullit wheels, Rear 18x10 Black Bullitt deep dish wheels, Cervini's 2.5" Cowl hood, Autometer Phantom 10K tachometer, Autometer Ultra-Lite carbon fiber FP gauge
Go: GT40P Explorer motor, Edlebrock Performer intake, AFM 4" Power Pipe, TFS Stage 1, ProForm 1.6's,Granetelli 24lb MAF, MSD Blaster Coil + distrib, Taylor Pro wires, UDP's, GT40p long tube headers, o/r 2.5" H pipe, 2.5" cat back w/ Flowmaster 10 Series mufflers, 3.73s
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