1991 Mustang Fox Body K Frame Replacement Questions?
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1991 Mustang Fox Body K Frame Replacement Questions?
So I was at Summit Racing here in Ohio today. I was going to buy an entire Chromoly K Frame and front suspension set up for my 91 hatch. The kid I bought the car from, hit a curb hard and pushed the LWR control arm on the driver side back about 3/4". Since I'm pulling the engine and trans to do a detail on the engine compartment and rebuild my T5, I think now is the time to fix that front end. Summit told me that unless I was building a drag car, they thought it would be best to check around and see what others put on their cars. They said that the stuff they sell is for drag applications.
I DEFINATELY need a K Frame. It's bent a little. I need to know where to buy and what to buy so I can make my car streetable and possibly hit a road course (and here's the "catch") not spend a huge sum of money.
Do I want lowering springs or stock ride height? Do I buy one of summit's drag setups? I'm totally lost and willing to make this 91 as good as my budget will allow. Suggestions and links??
Thank you so much for your insight and experience!
Well, I live in Michigan and I have both an LX and GT k member stock I wanna get rid of. SO, if you want to work out a deal, I'm open.
If you're not going to drag...personally...id just stick with stock. It's cheaper. Personally, I'm making mine a drag-weekend ride. So I'm going with the Tub k member. I got the entire front end on both the cars and am looking to sell sell sell. Anyway, good luck. I'm sure someone with way more experinece will follow me and tell u different. But...Do what u WANT. It's your car and I have the same problem. I want suggestions, but everyone on here suggests something differnent and my head just about explodes!
Women teaching herself how to build a car with no help
I certainly appreciate the offer, I grew up in Michigan and head up there often. But, If I'm going to all the trouble of taking it apart, I want something COOL in it's place.
My car is a GT 5.0 HO 91 hatch. I'd like to do a tubular K frame, NOT move my motor at all, change LWR control arms and springs on all 4 corners. Plus, I'd like new hardware & bushings. That's really what I'm after. Basically, better than stock, but street & road worthy, reasonable cash. This is not a show car or full on race car. Just a "terrorize the neighborhood" car that looks and sounds good.
Maximum makes an awesome k member too, but if youre looking to not spend a heap of money, get a good stock one, brace it properly (a little fabrication and welding would be required of course if youre up for that), paint it, and itll look beautiful. Plus it wont cost you $650. Whatever you do, I would avoid buying a cheap one. They are unlikely to fit well, and will more than likely produce worse suspension geometry than stock, which is a terrifying thought.
Yup, that's exactly what I did. I got a stock one and bought Energy Suspension bushings for every single place under the car. 100% new pivot bushings everywhere. I sandblasted the K frame and LWR control arms & I'm painting it all today. It looks great already and everything's going to fit perfect. THANKS
I just installed a QA1 K-member motorsport 5300C springs(I think that is correct #) I cut an inch and a half off spring to get the control arm to connect, I used KYB AGX struts with what I thought was Granitelli CC plates but they turned out to be UPR's go figure... when I went to get alignment the closest I could get camber was -1.56 and caster would not set right either... I contacted QA1 the informed me I needed to purchase their control arms and coil overs if I want a correct alingment.. so what ever system you go with CALL MANUFACTORER TO GET PROPER PARTS FOR JOB!!!!!! I am so annoyed with the "pimply faced parts idiots these days" anyways happy modding...
I am completly happy with the QA1 K-member and it was a breeze to install, and the quality is def. their buttttttttt MAKE SURE YOU CLEARENCE YOUR HOOD IT WILL RAISE YOUR ENGINE ALMOST 2.5 INCHES.. AND MOVE YOUR FRONT WHEELS 2.0 INCHES FORWARD..
There is a pretty good book out there called Mustang Performance handbook I & II. II is all suspension and chassis. He lays out templates for stiffening beams and even things like DIY subframes. Its definitely worth reading. One good idea for a stock k member is to brace it straight across the "K" portion of the k member if you know what I mean. If you make one, you have to allow clearance vertically for the trans and prob oil pan, etc, but this is a place where a lot of cornering stability can be gained due to the minimization of deflection in the k member. Just a thought. Good move sticking with stock, aftermarket ones can be real tough.
TXcop, that sucks. I know maximums move the wheels 1.5" forward and essentially require trimming of the fenders to fit. Then everything looks goofy as hell too. Those k members really are just for race cars essentially. Sucks you had to find out the hard way. Good luck.
Cardinal Red '88 GT 5 speed, 99 Contour Electric Dual Fans, Battery relocated, 130 amp alternator, 76mm Mass Air conversion, 75mm BBK throttle body, 5.0L .030 over, BBK SSI, AFR 185cc heads, Comp Cams XE276HR, BBK ceramic longtubes, Spec Stage II clutch, MM front/rear coil overs, MM front LCA's, MM manual brake conversion, Flaming River Manual Rack, 94-04 Cobra front brakes, 99 Cobra IRS, Torsen T2R differential, 3:55 gears
I havent had to trim wheel wells, thank god or I would be crying a blue river to Summit.. I wish these parts store idiots knew parts like back a few yrs ago so they could tell you exactly what you needed to complete the job properly.. they are wearing me out with "oh by the way" So now I just get on here and read my eyes out b4 I purchase anything...
91 LX chassis, 521 CID big block, 3.5 mufflers just off headers, 3.73.1 ring and pinion, 10 pt cage, custom made thru the floor sub frame connectors, with custom made dash and other parts.
Wow! I am so glad to read all this as I was pondering a future swap in my '92LX notch. I admit that my BBK long tubes are a pain in my ass especially on the driver's side, but grin and bear it may be the plan now. I think replacing the stock steering shaft may be the answer to the driver's side clearance deal. Now a cleveland in a fox or something maybe so for a little mo clearance. Now the K-member on an '88 t-bird for instance looks to be a lot more clearance nightmares than a fox mustang. Just thinking.
I installed a UPR k member kit and CC plates and have had no issues at all and no moving of the engine in any direction.
2014 V6 Deep Impact Blue Mustang 2.73 (Uughh) 1989 Sonic Blue Mustang LX Coupe, 349 ci, TW heads, TFS Track Heat intake, 75mm Accufab TB, 80mm ProM, 30 lb inj., Jay Allen cam, TKO, 3.73, 31 spline w/ TruTrac, MAC 1-5/8" LT headers w/ h-pipe, 2-1/2 flowmaster, electric fan, Moates QH 392 rwhp 424 rwtq....Mustang Dyno "There are three kinds of men. The one that learns by reading. The few who learn by observation. The rest of them have to pee on the electric fence for themselves." -Will Rogers-
Just another thought, when I replaced my k member and control arms, I also replaced my right spindle because the previous owner hit a curb on that side with it prior to me getting the car. You couldn't really tell by looking at it until I removed the spindle from the car and compared it to the spindle I got at the pick a part yard and my old one was bent for sure.
My friend the body man said the spindles bend easily if hit.
You might want to look into that possibility also..
89 LX Vert 5.0 Mostly Stock
5 speed, 2.73, TracLok still blown, but, new Spec Stg 1 Clutch Dynomax Super Turbos[i]