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Old 04-20-2004   #1 (permalink)
Rice-Eater is offline Rookie


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Default Mac long tube headers!!!

Does anyone have these and if so how are they?
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Old 04-20-2004   #2 (permalink)
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Good product except for the fact that they LOVE to warp on you, and most likely won't bolt back up to your engine correctly if you have to take them off for any reason.
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Old 04-20-2004   #3 (permalink)
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I have bbk shorties and I have helped a friend bolt up a set of mac's and they are not the best. I would say just save up a little more and get a set of bbk's
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Old 04-20-2004   #4 (permalink)
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I have the ceramic MAC longtubes. They've been on two different 302's, haven't warped and still look almost as good as new. HOWEVER... they ARE a PITA to get in the car and I've heard the horror stories. Must be lucky I guess
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Old 04-20-2004   #5 (permalink)
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I originally planned on using MAC's long tubes for my 351 swap but I'm going BBK instead. BBK has one piece flanges and they're a lot thicker than MAC's. They'll be pricey but worth it.
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Old 04-21-2004   #6 (permalink)
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My brother and I just installed the MAC 1-3/4 inch longtube headers on my 1979 Cobra. What a PAIN IN THE A**!

After installing the passenger side header, we laid under the car to install the starter. Guess what? It wouldn't go in. There wasn't enough room to fit it up between the block and one of the tubes. Two hours later, we got it in, AFTER removing the header, heating the tube up with MAPP gas, and beating the hell out of it just enough to clear. That su**ed totally, and if the tubes were smaller than the 1-3/4 inches, I would have just returned them.

Next, we attempted to install the driver's side. After removing the steering shaft/rag joint assembly, we installed the header. Once that was done, we reinstalled the steering shaft by sliding it through two of the tubes. After bolting everything up, the steering wheel wouldn't turn! This was because the rag joint was now hitting one of the tubes.

After this hour long su**fest, we gave up. I ordered the Flaming River Steering shaft kit for '79-'93 Mustangs and waited two weeks for that baby to show up. It now fits like a glove and all is fine.

For the amount of money that I paid for these things, the quality of the fit just plain out su**ed! I had a lot of plans to contact MAC and complain like crazy, but decided that I would get nowhere fast.

For the record, the MAC off road H-pipe, and 2-1/2 inch cat-back exhaust fit perfectly.
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Old 04-22-2004   #7 (permalink)
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I have Mac 1 5/8" long tubes nickel plated.
They weren't bad to put in cause I was putting in my engine at the same time. I imagine that all long tubes are gonna be the same amount of work.
The header is great other then it rainbowed a bit.
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Old 04-23-2004   #8 (permalink)
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those headers are the best, all these Aholes and thier horror stories knocking a really good product, it went through a nyc winter already and thier still new, it gave me a lot of low end torque, it also tamed the car down a lil, its quieter at idle than my shorties, but louder at WOT, the installation on a 92 GT AOD took 3 hours with new motor mounts, and they do go in from the top, I repeat they go in from the top and the bottom, for under $250 u cant go wrong.
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Old 04-23-2004   #9 (permalink)
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A-holes with horror stories? If I'm labeled an A-hole because I told the truth, then so be it. Nice of you to judge.

We built my entire car from scratch over the last 3+ years with ALL brand new parts. The headers were the only pieces that gave us trouble. We put them in before the engine/transmission and bolted them right up. It was their fit and finish that prevented us from installing the starter and the steering shaft.

It was not our fault that the tubes weren't bent at the correct angles to clear those two components.
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Old 09-21-2008   #10 (permalink)
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Guys I hate to ressurect this old thread, but I have recently run into some issues as well with some MAC long tube headers and I need some help.

Im pretty sure they are for 87-93 fox bodies and not anything sooner, as they has o2 sensor bungs.

The damn things just dont fit. They interfere with the steering colum and just as bad on the passenger side. They mate up perfectly with the E7 header gaskets, but I cant get these to fit, is it possible that they are for the SN95 style? or are there alot of mods that I have to do to get these to fit?
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Old 09-21-2008   #11 (permalink)
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i just bought a pair they fit great a little tough to get on but thats what happens when you run long tube headers great buy. bbk doesn't fit as well i'd go with mac's
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Old 09-21-2008   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sniper View Post
I originally planned on using MAC's long tubes for my 351 swap but I'm going BBK instead. BBK has one piece flanges and they're a lot thicker than MAC's. They'll be pricey but worth it.
since when do bbk's cost more than mac?
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93 Lx Notch 347 stroker
+eagle rotating assembly+victor jr heads full roller+rpm air gap intake+mac 1 5/8" inlet 3" collector+quick fuel q750 carb+.586 lift comp cam hydraulic roller+stock block+dss main girdle= a lot of power and no traction
next up suspension
and a 150 shot
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Old 09-21-2008   #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hissing Cobra View Post
My brother and I just installed the MAC 1-3/4 inch longtube headers on my 1979 Cobra. What a PAIN IN THE A**!

After installing the passenger side header, we laid under the car to install the starter. Guess what? It wouldn't go in. There wasn't enough room to fit it up between the block and one of the tubes. Two hours later, we got it in, AFTER removing the header, heating the tube up with MAPP gas, and beating the hell out of it just enough to clear. That su**ed totally, and if the tubes were smaller than the 1-3/4 inches, I would have just returned them.

Next, we attempted to install the driver's side. After removing the steering shaft/rag joint assembly, we installed the header. Once that was done, we reinstalled the steering shaft by sliding it through two of the tubes. After bolting everything up, the steering wheel wouldn't turn! This was because the rag joint was now hitting one of the tubes.

After this hour long su**fest, we gave up. I ordered the Flaming River Steering shaft kit for '79-'93 Mustangs and waited two weeks for that baby to show up. It now fits like a glove and all is fine.

For the amount of money that I paid for these things, the quality of the fit just plain out su**ed! I had a lot of plans to contact MAC and complain like crazy, but decided that I would get nowhere fast.

For the record, the MAC off road H-pipe, and 2-1/2 inch cat-back exhaust fit perfectly.

I'm not no expert i just installed my MAC headers the starter just has to be jimmyd in it does fit from the top and the bottom. some people just need to try different angles. the headers sound amazing and fit perfect once in
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93 Lx Notch 347 stroker
+eagle rotating assembly+victor jr heads full roller+rpm air gap intake+mac 1 5/8" inlet 3" collector+quick fuel q750 carb+.586 lift comp cam hydraulic roller+stock block+dss main girdle= a lot of power and no traction
next up suspension
and a 150 shot
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Old 09-21-2008   #14 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vr4_007 View Post
Guys I hate to ressurect this old thread, but I have recently run into some issues as well with some MAC long tube headers and I need some help.

Im pretty sure they are for 87-93 fox bodies and not anything sooner, as they has o2 sensor bungs.

The damn things just dont fit. They interfere with the steering colum and just as bad on the passenger side. They mate up perfectly with the E7 header gaskets, but I cant get these to fit, is it possible that they are for the SN95 style? or are there alot of mods that I have to do to get these to fit?
Looking for some help here guys.

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Old 09-22-2008   #15 (permalink)
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Long tubes are supposed to have the bungs, even for the 94-95 models.

MAC headers usually require removal of the steering shaft to get them in, and it'll go inbetween the header tubes, and then they're specific to the transmission you have. That could be part of the problem.
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Last edited by EagleAutosports; 09-22-2008 at 05:16 PM.
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