how to set distributor timing. - Ford Mustang Forum
 
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-10-2011 Thread Starter
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how to set distributor timing.

ok just built my 306 runnin gt40 intakes,bbk throttle body, 24lbs injectors and a good size comp cam not sure which one. well my cousin was telling me i was wrong about how i set the timing.


i havent tried to fire up the new motor yet i wanna make sure all is good first, but what i did was set the number one piston at top dead center and put dizzy rotor pointed at number one fire, well my cousin is saying i need to set the number one piston at the compression stroke which i have no clue about.


so what is the easiest way?



Thanks its a 94.
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-11-2011
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With mine on TDC my rotor button is pointed dead in the middle of the intake.

2011 Ford Mustang Gt

2004 Ford Mustang Cobra

1995 Ford Mustang v8 Project Car

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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-11-2011
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Yep he's right, take the number 1 spark plug out, wad some paper up and shove it in the hole. Hand crank the engine over, when the paper shoots out thats the compression stroke, back crank it (this is if you passed tdc on the damper if you go slow and catch it early you should be approaching TDC) and align the rotor to the 1 on the cap while the point is on TDC on the damper. Put plugs back in and start her up. After that remove the spout connector (grey fuse jumper box) loosen the distributor hold down and break out the timing light and set for 10 degree BTDC, replace spout.

Probe 347ci V1-SC @ 12psi, edelbrock heads, typhoon intake, tfs cam, tweecer rt, full exhaust, 31spline axles w c-clip elmins, trutrac difff, tko 500, meth injected, too much to list.
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-11-2011 Thread Starter
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ok when it pushes the paper out is that when i stop and set it or do i need to put somethin in plug hole to ensure the cyl is at TDC?
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-11-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TravisCadello View Post
ok when it pushes the paper out is that when i stop and set it or do i need to put somethin in plug hole to ensure the cyl is at TDC?
Technically you dont have to use paper (could use ur finger) and if you go slow enough as you feel the air and approach the top of the stroke your damper should be approaching TDC. So you move it untill you feel the air and continue turning until the damper is at TDC. This is when you drop the distributor in and make sure the rotor is facing the number 1 on the cap.

#1 hand crank it slowly
#2 once you feel air out of the #1 spark plug hole continue turning until the damper is TDC
#3 once pointer is ATDC install distributor so rotor points to #1 marking on the cap.

Probe 347ci V1-SC @ 12psi, edelbrock heads, typhoon intake, tfs cam, tweecer rt, full exhaust, 31spline axles w c-clip elmins, trutrac difff, tko 500, meth injected, too much to list.
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-11-2011 Thread Starter
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Thanks!
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-13-2011
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If you dont have a timing light handy her is how you get your timing close to where you need it.
After you get the distributer in the block with the engine at TDC compression put the balancer TDC mark on the degree mark you want your base timing to be. Approach the timing mark in the direction of engine rotation. Make sure your spout jumper is disconnected. Then turn your distributor slooowly until you hear a snap under the cap.
At this point your timing is set close to the degree mark you have the TDC mark lined up with. Good enough for a road test.

Make damn sure you have #1 spark plug wire on the plug and your junk clear of the fender. If you cant figure out why then have a friend make a video of you setting the timing this way.

If its not broke, your not trying hard enough.
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-13-2011 Thread Starter
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got it on first try! brand new motor fired right up. only problem is its a bit jumpy when at a steady throttle cruisin. maybe just play with distrutor untill it smoothens out like i did before or pay mechanic to set it right.


only thing is i dont know if setting the timing exactly what the stock is recromended for will run right for the cam im running. its a pretty big comp cam.
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-15-2011 Thread Starter
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ok, now to get timing better in shape its a bit jumpy when driveing.


well i got a timing light but now i need to know what am i looking for on the harmonic balancer? does it need to flash on the 0 degree number or what am i looking for? also how do i dissconnect the spout connector?
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SPOUT is just a little gray plastic plug that is nothing more than a jumper. On an sn with the original harness, it is over kind of between the airbox and the fender, right by the MAF. It just dangles there.

Just pull it out to remove it.

To set the timing:

Allow car to reach operating temp

Shut off

Pull SPOUT

Start car (may need to fiddle with throttle body if base timing is off in order to get car to run)

Loosen distributor hold down bolt

Point timing light at balancer

Factory setting is 10 BTDC. SO...on a plain-Jane timing light, that simply flashes in-sync with the plug firing, it should flash at 10 BTDC...

Turn distributor (don't wrench on the cap - actually turn the distributor) to get desired timing

Tighten hold down bolt

Shut off car

Re-install SPOUT

Drive

Now, I don't know what your build is designed for. If you have a high compression engine, you may have different octane requirements...

If the engine is built to run on 87 octane fuel, then you want the most advance that you can have without any pinging on 87 octane fuel. Try 14, see if it pings. If not, you may even try 16...I doubt it, but you might try it...if it does ping, just back it down a degree or two until it stops pinging under load.

Now, ultimately, whatever octane you are using, you want the most timing for that octane that you can run without ping. BUT, DO NOT USE HIGHER OCTANE JUST TO GET MORE TIMING...that is useless. Use higher octane if your engine build requires it, but other than that stick with 87...

Make sense?

Matt

2006 GT - Vortech polished w/ intercooler, Eibach suspension, Hurst short-throw, some other goodies - tuned by Paul's High Performance. It moves...

and it collects dust admirably while parked for repairs in the garage...

SOLD - 1995 Black Mustang GT, AODE. Loved it, but I had to let it go...

mjmalegalsolutions.com
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post #11 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-15-2011 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alleymad95GT View Post
SPOUT is just a little gray plastic plug that is nothing more than a jumper. On an sn with the original harness, it is over kind of between the airbox and the fender, right by the MAF. It just dangles there.

Just pull it out to remove it.

To set the timing:

Allow car to reach operating temp

Shut off

Pull SPOUT

Start car (may need to fiddle with throttle body if base timing is off in order to get car to run)

Loosen distributor hold down bolt

Point timing light at balancer

Factory setting is 10 BTDC. SO...on a plain-Jane timing light, that simply flashes in-sync with the plug firing, it should flash at 10 BTDC...

Turn distributor (don't wrench on the cap - actually turn the distributor) to get desired timing

Tighten hold down bolt

Shut off car

Re-install SPOUT

Drive

Now, I don't know what your build is designed for. If you have a high compression engine, you may have different octane requirements...

If the engine is built to run on 87 octane fuel, then you want the most advance that you can have without any pinging on 87 octane fuel. Try 14, see if it pings. If not, you may even try 16...I doubt it, but you might try it...if it does ping, just back it down a degree or two until it stops pinging under load.

Now, ultimately, whatever octane you are using, you want the most timing for that octane that you can run without ping. BUT, DO NOT USE HIGHER OCTANE JUST TO GET MORE TIMING...that is useless. Use higher octane if your engine build requires it, but other than that stick with 87...

Make sense?


makes compelte sense thanks for taking your time and explaining it. and my build is a regular 306 with speed pro forged pistons 4 valve releaves. only specils is a big comp cam and gt 40 intake and 24lbs injectors.

should i run a higher octane just for the bigger cam or no? it cams really hard shakes the rubber on the tires just idling.

and i think the spout your talking about is a grey connector by the passenger side shock tower? if so what u mean pull it if its just layin their?
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That is the SPOUT you found. Mine is gray as well.

The gray plug can be pulled out of the harness. It looks like a Lego...

Anyhow, you have to pull it to prevent the computer from electronically advancing the timing while you spin the distributor...it is required that you remove the spout in order to set the base timing...basically, you are breaking the circuit to the TFI, making the electronic timing advance inoperable...

Big cam or not, the car should idle smoothly if everything is correct...it can lope a lot, but still be smooth, if that makes sense...big cam should not really cause vibration...

I am no engine builder by a long shot. I cannot really explain why your car may be idling roughly...but, I know that there are many components that are affected by a cam change that can wreak havoc on the car's idle if they are not properly installed and checked...basically, the valvetrain geometry being even a bit off can cause pretty significant idle issues...

About all I can say is to get the timing set correctly and go from there. Then, at least, you will know if that was the issue or not. If you get it set to say between 10 and 14 degrees BTDC and it smooths out the idle, then that is great...if you do that and it doesn't smooth out the idle, well...

For now, just get the timing set and go from there...

Matt

2006 GT - Vortech polished w/ intercooler, Eibach suspension, Hurst short-throw, some other goodies - tuned by Paul's High Performance. It moves...

and it collects dust admirably while parked for repairs in the garage...

SOLD - 1995 Black Mustang GT, AODE. Loved it, but I had to let it go...

mjmalegalsolutions.com
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post #13 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-17-2011 Thread Starter
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ok, i understand everything except one thing. where do i point the timing light? i looked and looked and looked notthin tells me what im point at. i know on the harmonic balancer but where do i need to be with the timing gun where do i need to be located at.
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