Hey all, ok well the squeel noise started recently now, at first I did what anyone would do, check the belt but the belt is in excellent shape and does not appear to be loose, although I could be wrong...
Today however, I installed a 70mm Throttle body/spacer. Now, on the new throttle body where the connector tube would go to connect the tube from the engine oil to the throttle body, was not there so what I ended up having to do was use the one from the stock throttle body, now what exactly is that tube for and how come the throttle body came w/o the connector (in fact, it had a plug inside of it...) is there a way to bypass that tube to the engine oil? Anyways so of course after disconnecting all the sensor around there, and putting a bigger throttle body in I had to screw with the idle, now after a good 30-45 minutes with my mom/a friend and my own girlfriend we ended up drawing the line at around an idle of 7-8 sometimes sits higher. Now, what should it be at? Why sometimes does it fluxuate? Now, this was a very very weird problem but it did seem to start after we turned the A/C on tonight (just to see where the RPM's sat with the A/C on...) a weird, almost screech/squeel/buzz (cant explain it well sry) noise started happening, although after I tightend the intake pipe up (the rings that go around the rubber seals that you screw tight...) it "seemed" to have stopped for now. Although the squeel that sounds like a fan belt, is still there...im baffled.
Now, with the Idle problem it seems to be almost impossible to get my car to have a perfect idle around 800 or whatever it should be, it always sits between 7-8, 6-8, or fluxuates badly between 7 (or 8) all the way up to 1 maybe a tad higher...what could be causing this? Right now, I think i have it sitting steadily around 7-8 (sometimes 9) but it does seem to sit higher around 8-9 sometimes, it makes no sense to me, why wont it just stay? Why does it constantly change where it idles at? It seems after I drive it, or even rev the engine for awhile after changing it, it changes where it sits, and then turning it off and back on changes it at first, but ultimately it will drop back down to where it was and fluxuate.
Anyone know what im talking about? I know this is alot of babbling but im horrible with explaining things so I did my best. Thanks!
Also, thanks again Ghostdog and TmBlackFlag for the help on the headers/h-pipe stuff.
Oh and by the way, the fan squeeling noise started before I messed with the throttle body and what not.
-Jason
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4cyl to 8cyl conversion. Mods include: Ford Motorsports x303 cam and roller lifters, BBK Intake with K&N Filter, 73MM C&L Vortech MAFS, BBK 70MM Throttle body and EGR spacer, Underdrive pulley kit, BBK Off-Road H-Pipe (Short) with BBK Full Length Headers, Flowmaster Exhaust system, 24lb injectors, Trickflow Street Heat upper and lower intake system, AC Removed, Smog Removed, King Cobra Clutch, Aeromotive Competition Fuel System (Complete). Tokico 5-way shocks/struts with FMS Springs.
You screwed with the throttle position sensor on top of the throttle body. Get a digital voltage meter and set it to DC. Put the positive probe up to green wire going to your throttle position sensor and the negative wire up to the throttle position sensor screw. It will give you a reading. You must loosen one or both of the throttle position sensor screws and turn it left or right depending if it is too low or too high. When you adjust that and screw down the sensor, it may change slightly. You need to adjust it slightly and compensate for movement when you tighten it. It can be tricky but is easy enough the 2nd time.
Now that the sensor is adjusted, your idle will now change higher or lower than you had it before. If the voltage was low , like 0.2 - 0.7v and you raise it, your idle will be higher. If it was higher than 1.0v , it will drop the idle speed. After changing the idle how you want it, your throttle position sensor voltage will change. You must readjust it to a voltage that is around 0.95 to 0.98v and maintains a good idle. The voltage is the most important part.
The reason the throttle position sensor voltage changes when you adjust the idle screw is it moves the throttle body butterfly more open or closed. The throttle position sensor rests on top of the rod that holds the butterfly in place , so as the pedal is pushed , the butterfly opens and the sensor sends the signal to the computer to add more fuel.
As for the belt squeeling, I'd check to make sure the belt is on there pretty darn tight. Simply loosen the spring tensioner bolt , pry the tensioner with a large screwdriver or pry bar, and tighten the spring tensioner bolt.
Alright, well I got the voltage to read .975 on the idle sensor, and fiddled with the idle, so far so good, although it does seem to change, obviously when you first turn it on its alot lower and after you drive it it will start idling higher, so I fiddled with it some more, we'll see how it goes from there.
BUT after completely reinstalling the throttle body and spacer the damn whistling sound is STILL there.
Its when I push the gas in more than you would just cruisin, i mean 'giving' it gas and it will continuously make the whistling sound even if your gunning it, until you let off the gas pedal enough to where your at the cruisin point (if you know what i mean...). Now, I stuck my ear up to the cold air induction and pulled the thottle and it sounds like its coming exactly from the Air Filter, now what could be causing this? The filter being dirty? I did 'not' touch the filter what so ever when messing with the throttle body, so it obviously couldnt have become lose on 'my' behalf. Anyone have suggestions? Its out right annoying and makes it sounds very bad, and who knows, maybe bad for performance? Anyways, please help, because at this rate im freaking taking the car into the shop.
Now a 'new' problem has arisen, apparently the alternator for some odd reason was sitting back, causing it to come mighty close to the fan belt, well due to a bent part of the alternator fan, it was causing the fan to wobble and apparently hitting the belt and shredding it down, so what I did was put washers on the bottom bolt, in the back, to cause it to move forward, giving it a little more clearance...but what could have caused it to sit at an angle at which the fan was hitting the belt? Any idea's?
Ok one 'last' thing i promise.
Ever since I got the conversion done, sometimes while on the highway in 5th gear the car will pulsate/vibrate, more i give it gas more violent it is. Now, just today I noticed it felt like, in 5th gear again on the highway, the car was kicking...if that makes sense. Kickin back in forth...but not real violent, in fact was fairly faint feeling. Hoping this isnt a bad sign, perhaps the tranny is goin up? Maybe just 5th gear?
Thanks in advance!!
-Jason
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4cyl to 8cyl conversion. Mods include: Ford Motorsports x303 cam and roller lifters, BBK Intake with K&N Filter, 73MM C&L Vortech MAFS, BBK 70MM Throttle body and EGR spacer, Underdrive pulley kit, BBK Off-Road H-Pipe (Short) with BBK Full Length Headers, Flowmaster Exhaust system, 24lb injectors, Trickflow Street Heat upper and lower intake system, AC Removed, Smog Removed, King Cobra Clutch, Aeromotive Competition Fuel System (Complete). Tokico 5-way shocks/struts with FMS Springs.