Well, it has been awhile since I have been here with an issue since the car computer issue. I was racing the stang for the first time at the track today since it has been out of the dyno shop and I already ran into problems. I got a good launch and right as I went into Second gear, my oil pressure went to zero. I immediately let off of it and coasted to the end of the track just in case. I was thinking that maybe I had a bad sender. Then the heads, and lifters started knocking really badly. I checked the oil and I have plenty in it. Does this mean I blew an oil pump? If so how hard is that one to change. Should I put a stock unit back in or run a performance one? And the final question........did I hurt the motor with all that noise going on in the valvetrain?

Thanks,
Ken
1992 Wickedstang GT

Ken, Ken, Ken, If it wasn't for bad luck you wouldn't have any luck, huh. It's a very good thing you shut off the engine right away, you must have a good eye keeping track of the guages.

Changing the oil pump will the engine is still in the car is not a easy thing to do, but it is possible. You will have to remove the motor mount bolts and jack up the engine as high as it will go without breaking or bending anything else. I used a floor jack and a 2x4 on the crank to raise it, then using some 2x2's slip them between the mount and the k-member. If you have long tube headers you might have to disconnect them at the collectors. Remove all of the oil pan bolts (drain oil first)
now, the oil pan might come out or not, I can't remember. If it does come out, and it will be a fight, then things are alittle easier. Remove the oil pick up and check for debris. I just yanked the 5.8 out of our plow truck and the pickup was full of silicone and parts of the oil ring retainers, so clean it out or just by a new one. Drop the oil pump (2 bolts) and the pump drive. If it looks like a twisted licorice chuck it and buy a new one.
A stock pump is ok but a high volume brand name pump is also worth considering. Now installation is opposite of removal. One tip is to use an elastic, wrap it around the new oil pump drive and stretch it around a main bolt to hold it there while you install the new pump. Once the new pump is on, just cut off the elastic and throw it away.
After you get everything buttoned up remove the distributor and prime the engine prior to firing it up, check the oil pressure and your good to go!
If it is very low then you probably hurt the main and rod bearings, but hopefully not.. Good luck to ya. Frank

Thanks Frank, you have been a really big help through all of my Stangs issues. I have not had the time to work on the oil pump yet. I already bought a new pump (stock unit) and gaskets. I have heard nothing but bad things about running high volume/high pressure pumps due to the oil journals in the crank not being able to handle it so I stayed with the stock unit. I have a feeling it is the shaft though, not the pump. We will see here in a couple of days. I will let you know what happened. I tried to get that EEC tuner info for you from the Dyno shop, but they are being tight lipped about that if you know what I mean. I have another guy in my club who has the same computer and EEC tuner kit in his stang. I can get you all the mapping info and everything from him. I will let you know.

Thanks again,
Ken

Ken, I stongly recommend you (and everyone else) install a Ford Racing oil pump shaft or quality aftermarket one. The stock shaft is known to be weak and prone to breaking under hard use. Something I have had the unfortunate pleasure of witnessing first hand.

As Frank pointed out, it's good you kept a close eye on those guages or you could have easily lost the entire engine. I hope you take some comfort in that. Best of luck to your patient. Sure she will be up and about and have you back on track real soon! :smokin:

Just an update on the oil pump situation. I was in the process of removing all of the parts to remove the motor and when I was removing the distributor, I heard what was left of the oil pump shaft fall to the bottom of the pan. I guess that explains my problem. My distributor is also spinning tight. Could that be why it broke or is that tight due to the motor running with no oil pressure? When you spin the gear, it is very tight. Regardless, I have an MSD Billet Dist. on the way. I will continue to keep you all posted. I should have the motor out sometime tomorrow. Stay tuned.............

Ken