I have a 90 lx 5.0 Conv. and you all helped me a lot when my diff. was leaking...I was able to replace it easy with confidence b/c of the knowledge I recieved on this board...Well now my damn water pump is leaking...at least I think it is my water pump...when the car cools down at night or when it is parked for several hours it leaks at least 2 cups of coolant/mostly water now b/c I refill with water only until I fix it...the leak is dripping down on to the harmonic balancer from somewhere above...the only thing I can see that would be leaking coolant from that position is the water pump...directly above it...so I want to change it myself and wanted to know how difficult it is...I am mechanically inclined and have replace clutches and fuel pumps in the past...questions,
1. Do you think it is the water pump from my description (All the hoses appear in good shape, I checked them first)
2. How difficult/long will/should it take
I'm picking the part up tommoro from the ford dealer 87.92+ tax...any help would be GREATLY appreciated!
When the water pump is on the way out, it starts leaking from a small hole on the top of it. I'd get that replaced ASAP.
First things first. You need to remove the fan shroud. To do this you have to remove the fan blade. It will be quarter turns from a wrench , think it's 1/4" or 5/16" (no room for ratchet) to get the 4 bolts that hold the fan blade to the water pump. After that remove the overflow tank bottom hose that comes from the radiator. Remove the two bolts that bolt the fan shroud into the radiator. At this point it should slip right off. This will make things a lot easier to work in.
I like to keep all the bolts I remove in ziplock bags and label the bag with a permanent marker.
Remove the water pump pulley bolts and set those aside.
If you have airconditioning still in the car, there is a large plate that holds the compressor for the most part. There is a stud that goes into the block that has a mid point where the plate will rest on and another nut will secure it in place. Remove all the nuts so you can remove the a/c plate.
Remove the hoses that go to the bottom of the water pump and to the heater core pipe. After that it's pretty clear on what to unbolt and remove. Be sure to clean the surface of the timing chain cover extremely well.
When you install the new gasket I would use the use either the blue or black silicone. Others will have their opinion of which silicone to use.
I'm guessing it should take around 2 1/2 hours.
If im missing anything please add.
Just be careful not to break the bolts. Been in there a while and might be stuck. It you turn them and they don't move easy get some penatrating oil on them. I had the fortune to have a bolt break. Not pleasent at all. Drilling and cussing and more drilling.
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1992 GT BBk Cold Air Intake/BBK 65MM Throttle body and spacer/Flow masters/BBK shorty headers-offroad h-pipe/LX taillights/Trick Flow upper and lower intake/subframe connectors/FMS Aluminum Driveshaft/MSD ignition/underdrive pulleys/coming soon Trick flow stage 1 cam and still under construction
Sounds pretty straight forward...but I thought the weep hole was on the bottom of the pump at the back side, I'm sure I read this somewhere, am I wrong?
rember, just because the weephole may not be leaking dosnt mean that your pump is not bad,
it could be a bad gasket, but the water pump is easy enough to replace you shouldnt have any problems.
also it could be a more serious leak, from the head... hope not
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go baby go.... gone...stock 5.0 short block gt 40x303 heads crane cobra 1.7 roller rockers ported lower intake kenne bell supercharger 70 mm edelbrock throttle body kenne bell 80 mm mass air with switch chip calibrated to 30 lb ford racing fuel injectors with bbk 190 lph fuel pump kenne bell ram air kit with a K&N filter MSD 6 al btm ignition with boost control bbk shortie headers bbk off road H-pipe with new o2 sensors flowmaster 3 chamber cat back exhaust maximum motorsportschassis/suspension
I just replaced mine for the first time on my 5.0....Had no trouble at all.
Mine was leaking out of the weep hole on the bottom......It was very straight forward. I did it in about 3 hours. I also replaced my thermostat, radiator, fan, and fan clutch at the same time.
Listen to "Ghost Dog"......He's got it down....I used bungie cords to hang the a/c and power steering bracket in two places so it was out of the way.
I used all new coolant and added Royal Purple additive when I was done.....Be sure to burp the system to get and air out when your done.....
I understand what you are saying but when I see that I can get a reman. procraft or bosch or something from pepboys for 24.99 I start to hear that old saying "you get what you pay for" coming into my head...please if anyone knows if there just as good tell me, but I'm scared that if I put one of those pumps in there i'll be changing it again or worse...anyone please respond i'd like to hear thoughts on this subject b/c I'm buying the pump today in a couple of hours!
I dont like buying from ford because after you buy it, they dont want to have anything to do with you. With part stores you get a nice warranty that they dont give you a hassle about.
Having been a Manager in an Advance auto parts for several years (I no longer work there) I would suggest you buy a "New" pump from advance if you can.
I am not plugging advance but they carry ASC pumps one of the best new pump manufacturers in the country, there is no core trade in and there is a LIFETIME warranty, from ford when you leave the parts dept your warranty is over.
On my 90' GT Vert I use an Edelbrock aluminum pump but if you have no issues with a stock replacement then go with an ASC, if I'm not mistaken the factory pump was aluminum so there is not a weight issue...
My personal pref for silicone sealer is copper plus, copper being a top quality gasket material it only stands to reason that a sealer with atomized copper in it will enhance the sealing properties.
I also use Red Line water wetter in my cooling system it seems to help....
Good Luck
90' GT Vert, Loaded....Installing a center Force Kevlar clutch this weekend.....
Thanks for the replies...But what I am still maybe not explaining, is that I know the parts stores sell reman. and new pumps...but the remans. are not "motocraft"...in the case of pepboys, where I am most likely going, they have "procraft"...would you all put "procraft" in your car?!?!?...my gut says no way, but if a reman. is a reman. and a new pump is a new pump, and they all are ok, I'm going to buy the damn reman. for 24.99 at pepboys...please somebody let me know..