Popping sound after Trickflow head and cam install ?
as most of you know, i just put new heads and cam in my car but now car makes a wierd popping sound from exhaust...and wont take ANY timing at all. I can move this dist adv and ret from TDC and there is no power gain at all. It idles pretty darn good though, but when you rev it it pops like crazy. Sounds like inside the front of the engine. And car runs ok when the spout is removed during timing, but when you plug it back in after the car is shut off, it runs worse. any ideas? cause im ALL out
im usin Autolite 3924's at .0052. I dont know if those are right. Come to think of it, i think it says in the tuning section of AFM to use Autolite 28's. Could that really be affecting it? Im almost 100% positive that everything else is right (timing chain, degree of cam...etc, i took alot of time to do it right) But on thing is weird... I brought the balencer to TDC and checked the distributer pointer and it IS facing #1, and it was popping, so i thought i might have it 180deg off, so i took it around to 0 again and moved the distributor pointer to #1. It started alot easier, but ran EXACTLY the same. I dont know what is going on. (hey does your guys alternator move clockwise or counter? and your water pump? clockwise or counter? i think my belt is messed up, due to 200degrees after like 10 min of idling, and a major squeek from my NEW alternator.
oh ya, i have a STOCK MAF...stupid of me....and a stock fuel pressure regulator. And about the belt, i have no air, smog pump, or powersteerin, so i think im screwin up the routing. Thanx alot for your help, i wouldnt be able to do this without alot of you guys!
You should be driving the water pump with the outside of the belt, as long
as it is a Mustang - spec. reverse rotation pump. All other accesories should
be driven by the inside of the belt.
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1992 Deep Emerald Green Mustang GT Hatch, 5 speed, 2.73s, Mac fenderwell cold air intake, '93 Cobra MAF, Mac 70mm throttle body & spacer, Explorer intakes, Mac unequal headers & offroad pipe, Magnaflow catback, Walbro 110lph fuel pump, Jet adjustable FPR, MSD Blaster coil, Accel 8mm wires, FRPP aluminum quadrant, UPR firewall adjuster, stock cable, Granatelli upper control arms.
Waiting to go on: Granatelli lower control arms, and GT40 Iron heads!
ya i think ive got the belt runnin the right way now, mabey its just too loose and the waterpump is slippin or somethin. anyway.....anybody got any ideas about the poppin? i really need help!
The popping may be tied to ignition timing. 3 things controill the spark. 1st is the hall effect sensor in the distributor which sends the spark signal through the TFI (2nd thing) to the EEC (3rd thing) which decides how long to delay spark and then sends the "fire" command to the coil through the TFI. The TFI is the most common failure point, however it could be either of the other two things also. When you pull the SPOUT, you are eliminating the EEC control, so you might assume the hall effect is OK. Might try changing out the TFI to see if things improve.
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Tom Moss
88 GT 5spd Vert 3:73s, Flowmaster catbacks, stock cam +4°, GT40P heads & 1.7 rockers, Jet-Hot coated MAC P headers, 97 Explorer intake, 65mm TB and 19# Explorer injectors. 277RWHP/330RWTQ
The TFI is the ignition module bolt4ed to the side of the distributor - it's the thing the wiring harness plugs into.
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Tom Moss
88 GT 5spd Vert 3:73s, Flowmaster catbacks, stock cam +4°, GT40P heads & 1.7 rockers, Jet-Hot coated MAC P headers, 97 Explorer intake, 65mm TB and 19# Explorer injectors. 277RWHP/330RWTQ
your timing has to be off i would say that is it for sure...does the car have any power?? and if your belt is correctly installed,full of coolant ...the timing will make the engine run warmer...you need to pull the cover and check your timing marks...make sure you have your plug wires wired correctly one or two crossed could cause the same problem....you may also need to see if the cam you installed used the 351 firing order not the 302...but its definitly in the timing... no doubt about it...check your wires first then make sure the firing order you are using is the correct one..remember it #1 through #4 is on the passenger side...hope you get it....let me know
hey guys, the car has no power, it idles pretty good, but when you try to drive it, it just pops and spits. I def think its somethin to do with the timing/plug wiring. When i originally tried to fire it up, i used the H.O. wiring but it didnt even fire, so i switched it to the non-H.O. and it fired up. I have the papers from Trick Flow and it shows the firing order, which is congruent with the non-H.O. wiring that i have. the thing is it idles and kinda revs smoothly, but when you drive it, it sounds EXACTLY like the wires are off. Problem is im just about out of money from the summer, and i really REALLY want to at least take it to the car show before the season is over. i havent even drivin it anywhere in 4 months. (quite depressing)...........mabey i will call trick flow and ask em if the cam could use the 351 firing order, cause those instructions for the firing order came with the heads, not the cam. hey guys thanx alot for keepin up with this, im at a stalemate and need help!!
welp.....just called trick flow....all late model cams use the damn 351 firing order!!!!! supposedly...i guess we will find out soon enough. Im gonna make the 1 hour 45 min treck home from college today, and change the 2 wires!!! WISH ME LUCK, I WILL POST THE OUTCOME!!! PRAY!!!!!!!!!
hey while were gettin stuff done, could my whistling in the belt area be the belt tensioner not doin its job? cause the marks are WAY past. could not enough tension cause the water pump to slip? well thats dumb because i know that could happen. Perhaps i will purchase a shorter belt, or try to find a tensioner somewhere (3 week order from Autozone, $71 i think) well im just thinkin aloud again, sorry
Popping sound after Trickflow head and cam install ? 
