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My battery keeps dieing so i tested for a parasitic draw and its about .6 amps which is like 12x what its supposed to be. When i disconnect the battery and reconnect it the iac clicks as well as a few different relays. I disconnected the ignition switch and tried again to eliminate that but with it disconnected all the relays and iac still click when the battery is connected. The car originally had a 2.3 and was swaped to a 5.0 so the wiring was changed before. Any ideas of what could be causing everything to turn on right away?
It also clicks when the computer powers up when you turn the igntion on. My guess would be the computer is on at all times. Could have possibly been wired so computer is straight to a battery source instead of key on source but that would mean it has something else wired differently to shut off ignition to kill the engine. Or possibly the relay for the computer is stuck closed.
So should I check if the EEC relay is bad? And also whats the proper way to test a relay for being good if you pull it out I remember your supposed to test ohms between two terminals i just dont remember which 2
Well first off you should isolate the draw and make sure it is the eec staying on before you go any further. So unplug the eec relay and hook the battery up and lis
ten for the noises you heard. If you don't hear them do your draw test again. If its still making noise with the eec relay unplugged unplug the eec itself and do your draw test again. Let me know what you find and ill tell ya where to go next.
I have tested all the fuses nothing makes the drain go away, I pulled the EEC relay out and when i hooked up the battery nothing clicked and the draw was down to .05
Inside the EEC relay looks pretty rusted and corroded so I'm assuming this is the problem. Does anyone know where I can find a replacement EEC relay or what company to get one from if I can't find a ford one?
Ok thats good you found the draw. There are two or three fusible links that hook up at the starter solenoid and the power for the computer comes from it so pulling the fuses will not kill the draw if its the eec staying on.
You should be able to get a relay at any parts store you will have to ask them to look it up cause its a special one to fit that connector. You may want to take your test light and check the relay connector before you buy one. You should have one power wire that is always hot and one that is hot only when the key is on. If you have two that are constantly hot that is whats keeping the eec on.