Huge battery drain - Ford Mustang Forum
 
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-04-2012 Thread Starter
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Huge battery drain

My battery keeps dieing so i tested for a parasitic draw and its about .6 amps which is like 12x what its supposed to be. When i disconnect the battery and reconnect it the iac clicks as well as a few different relays. I disconnected the ignition switch and tried again to eliminate that but with it disconnected all the relays and iac still click when the battery is connected. The car originally had a 2.3 and was swaped to a 5.0 so the wiring was changed before. Any ideas of what could be causing everything to turn on right away?
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-05-2012
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thats odd, the only time ive heard relay clicks is during a code scan......

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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-06-2012
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It also clicks when the computer powers up when you turn the igntion on. My guess would be the computer is on at all times. Could have possibly been wired so computer is straight to a battery source instead of key on source but that would mean it has something else wired differently to shut off ignition to kill the engine. Or possibly the relay for the computer is stuck closed.
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-06-2012
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+1

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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-06-2012 Thread Starter
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So should I check if the EEC relay is bad? And also whats the proper way to test a relay for being good if you pull it out I remember your supposed to test ohms between two terminals i just dont remember which 2
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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-07-2012
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Well first off you should isolate the draw and make sure it is the eec staying on before you go any further. So unplug the eec relay and hook the battery up and lis
ten for the noises you heard. If you don't hear them do your draw test again. If its still making noise with the eec relay unplugged unplug the eec itself and do your draw test again. Let me know what you find and ill tell ya where to go next.
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-07-2012
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Check for current draw across each fuse to isolate the subsystem(s) causing the drain.
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-08-2012
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^^^+1 pull fuses til the draw goes away check that circuit to be the entire drain.

When the green light drops...
The Bullsh!t stops. :shiny:
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-08-2012
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Make sure and check every circuit too.

I had an A/C compressor clutch coil do this to me on my '87 Mustang GT.
post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-08-2012 Thread Starter
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I have tested all the fuses nothing makes the drain go away, I pulled the EEC relay out and when i hooked up the battery nothing clicked and the draw was down to .05

Inside the EEC relay looks pretty rusted and corroded so I'm assuming this is the problem. Does anyone know where I can find a replacement EEC relay or what company to get one from if I can't find a ford one?
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Ok thats good you found the draw. There are two or three fusible links that hook up at the starter solenoid and the power for the computer comes from it so pulling the fuses will not kill the draw if its the eec staying on.

You should be able to get a relay at any parts store you will have to ask them to look it up cause its a special one to fit that connector. You may want to take your test light and check the relay connector before you buy one. You should have one power wire that is always hot and one that is hot only when the key is on. If you have two that are constantly hot that is whats keeping the eec on.
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