Clutch Cable Routing - Ford Mustang Forum
 
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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-12-2012 Thread Starter
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Clutch Cable Routing

Ok, I know this can be a lot to ask, but I would like to see if anyone could take a picture of their Fox Body's Clutch cable routing. My Clutch seems a little stiff. I think I may have routed it through wrong.

Thanks in advance.
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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-12-2012
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What kind of cable did you buy?

1991 mustang GT, stock 5.0, off-road H-pipe, American Thunder Cat-Back with super 44 mufflers, 130 amp 3g alternator, Proform 2800 cfm electric fan, smog pump delete, MGW shifter with rally stripe knob, alpine cda-9886 with MTX 10" sub and alpine components all around... New 347 stroker in the works!

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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-12-2012 Thread Starter
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Cable should be irrelevant to where it's routed. It's an adjustable cable from LMR. It was apart of the Firewall adjuster and Quadrant kit.
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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-12-2012
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it is very relevant. many people on here will tell you about the problematic aftermarket and adjustable cables. i myself went through a few of them before i bout an oem spec cable from maximum motorsports. as soon as I installed it clutch was smooth as butter. it should go on top of the steering rack and right below and to the inside of the engine mount. I'm just trying to give you a heads up on cables. Many people will tell you no cable comes close to the quality of the oem and MM cables.

1991 mustang GT, stock 5.0, off-road H-pipe, American Thunder Cat-Back with super 44 mufflers, 130 amp 3g alternator, Proform 2800 cfm electric fan, smog pump delete, MGW shifter with rally stripe knob, alpine cda-9886 with MTX 10" sub and alpine components all around... New 347 stroker in the works!

ASE certified mechanic: suspension and alignment, brakes, heating and air conditioning, and engine diagnostics

Last edited by JPIZZLE52; 03-12-2012 at 10:55 AM. Reason: misspelled
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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-12-2012
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here is a link to a good cable MM Clutch Cable, Universal Mustang, Ford OEM, 1982-04 [MMCL-11] : Maximum Motorsports, the Latemodel Mustang Performance Suspension Leader!. Im not trying to down your purchase just trying save you a headache. the quadrant and firewall adjuster you got will work just fine but those aftermarket cables are junk. you'll be lucky if it dont stretch, break, or split the sheathing within a month.

1991 mustang GT, stock 5.0, off-road H-pipe, American Thunder Cat-Back with super 44 mufflers, 130 amp 3g alternator, Proform 2800 cfm electric fan, smog pump delete, MGW shifter with rally stripe knob, alpine cda-9886 with MTX 10" sub and alpine components all around... New 347 stroker in the works!

ASE certified mechanic: suspension and alignment, brakes, heating and air conditioning, and engine diagnostics
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That's 74.99 for a clutch cable lol, it better be perfect in ever aspect. I'm told that most clutch cables work as long as they're routed right. I just don't see how that cable, which should be made the exact same, but it is adjustable, would be any different than the one I bought.
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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-12-2012
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i know its pricey...lol thats what i figured too until i had to keep replacing them. i started to do alot of research and searching the forums and read enough about the failures to make the switch. Ive been running that cable for over a year now and havent even had to make any adjustments and still smooth as new

1991 mustang GT, stock 5.0, off-road H-pipe, American Thunder Cat-Back with super 44 mufflers, 130 amp 3g alternator, Proform 2800 cfm electric fan, smog pump delete, MGW shifter with rally stripe knob, alpine cda-9886 with MTX 10" sub and alpine components all around... New 347 stroker in the works!

ASE certified mechanic: suspension and alignment, brakes, heating and air conditioning, and engine diagnostics
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I'll need to check the routing and readjust the cable when I have another hand over here to help hold up the pedal to make sure it's in smoothly. I might throw some grease in it, it just depends. I'll try to make this one work until it craps out or until I decide I need to buy another. I really don't want to invest more money for another clutch cable right now. This is the fourth one. After buying two bad ones and the one I had on it was shot.
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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-12-2012
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cable pics

Hope this helps, Ugh it says the files are too large for AFM. Send me a tell and your email and ill send you the pics.
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Last edited by n8ve_stang; 03-12-2012 at 01:24 PM. Reason: no pics
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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-12-2012 Thread Starter
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shouldnt have to lube it with it being teflon lined. if you do be sure to use some form of dry lube or it will attract dust and debris and actually make thinks worse

1991 mustang GT, stock 5.0, off-road H-pipe, American Thunder Cat-Back with super 44 mufflers, 130 amp 3g alternator, Proform 2800 cfm electric fan, smog pump delete, MGW shifter with rally stripe knob, alpine cda-9886 with MTX 10" sub and alpine components all around... New 347 stroker in the works!

ASE certified mechanic: suspension and alignment, brakes, heating and air conditioning, and engine diagnostics
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I don't blame you for not wanting to get another cable. I've been using a cheap cable for the past seven years...

I don't have any pictures for you, but the correct routing is pretty much common sense - Let it follow the most natural path possible.

As far as lubricating, I'm a big believer in doing this, no matter what the cable says about "pre-lubricated." I have had the best luck using gear oil.

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I'm not sure if it is the same, but I routed my cable starting in front of the car underneath. and fed the cable under the oil filter and thru the motor mount ,the first time it was kind of hard to get into the bell housing, so I found the path next to the oil pan and it went easily into the bell housing. then I fed the cable up near the oil filter and into the adjuster I tried from the top down and spent like an hour and got no where . the cable slides easily in the housing now. this is on my 1999 cobra btw.
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The routing has to do with the most direct path with minimal kinks. Also keeping it away from major heat sources as I have fried a cable in my days before.

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