i understand what they do, but if i get after market heads do i need a Hydraulic Roller? what is that? what is the deifference between the hydraulic, solid, or hydraulic roller lifter camshafts? why are they so different? sorry for my inexperience but i know you guys never flame when it comes to things like this.
Thanks
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1992 Mustang 5.0L LX
Cold air, 65mm Throttle body, Cobra Upper and
Lower w/ 1 inch spacer,
FRPP 3.73's, BBK Under pullies,
Mac H-Pipe, Mac Cat Back, Rebuilt AOD with Transgo
stage 2 shift kit, and a 2500 stall coverter.
more to come in time.
Hydraulic Cam: The lifter pumps up with oil to take up the slack in the valvetrain
Hydraulic roller : Same as hydraulic but the foot of the lifter uses a wheel to reduce friction and allow faster lifter acceleration and more agressive cam profiles.
Solid : The lifter is basically a solid chunk of steel that does nothing except tranfer the motion of the cam lobe to the pushrod. The valves need to be adjusted manually.
Solid roller : Same as hydraulic roller without hydraulic action.
Solid cams allow for higher rpm because the pumping action of the hydraulic lifter is eliminated, and they are noisier as well.
You do not need to change cams when you change heads, although it allows you to take better advantage of the head swap. Also, you do not need to change the camshaft type, stick with the hydraulic roller.
ok, so where do the lifters go exactly? sorry about the stupid questions.
__________________
1992 Mustang 5.0L LX
Cold air, 65mm Throttle body, Cobra Upper and
Lower w/ 1 inch spacer,
FRPP 3.73's, BBK Under pullies,
Mac H-Pipe, Mac Cat Back, Rebuilt AOD with Transgo
stage 2 shift kit, and a 2500 stall coverter.
more to come in time.
If you remove the lower intake you will see there are 8 holes in the lifter valley that they slide into. The pushrod goes on top of that and the rocker arm bolts onto the head and holds the pushrod down.
take off ur lower intake, u know what a pushrod looks like right? ur lifters are in thevalley in the middle of the block underneath the upper intake and hold up the pushrods, if ur still confused let me know i will run downstairs with my cam, i am rebuilding my top end right now, hears are off so u can see the entire cam and up's assembly
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89 fox, mostly stock, C&L 73mm MAF, bypassed coolant hoses to egr spacer, intake silencer removal, no a/c, all options but power mirrors?? blown cats, msd cap and rotor, bosch wires, autolite plugs, 5 inch auto gauge tach with recal and blue lensed shift light, PAPER FILTER I BOUGHT ONE!!!!!!! felpro gasgets on everywhere accept oil pan and a nice big classic mustang decal on my back window
If you remove the lower intake you will see there are 8 holes in the lifter valley that they slide into. The pushrod goes on top of that and the rocker arm bolts onto the head and holds the pushrod down.
Actually, there are 16 lifters in a 302... 8 on each side.
Hydraulic Cam: The lifter pumps up with oil to take up the slack in the valvetrain
Hydraulic roller : Same as hydraulic but the foot of the lifter uses a wheel to reduce friction and allow faster lifter acceleration and more agressive cam profiles.
Solid : The lifter is basically a solid chunk of steel that does nothing except tranfer the motion of the cam lobe to the pushrod. The valves need to be adjusted manually.
Solid roller : Same as hydraulic roller without hydraulic action.
Solid cams allow for higher rpm because the pumping action of the hydraulic lifter is eliminated, and they are noisier as well.
You do not need to change cams when you change heads, although it allows you to take better advantage of the head swap. Also, you do not need to change the camshaft type, stick with the hydraulic roller.
If the cam is not a roller cam it is a flat tappet cam. What that means is the lifter either has a roller on it or has a flat finish to it. Roller cams have less wear due to lifters and lose less HP due to friction. Your 92 block is a roller cam block and uses roller lifters. If you look at the oil valley of the engine, you will notice 3 X's cast into the block....this is the easiest way to tell if you have a roller block or not.
Not bad for a chick, huh? Actually, I just learned this as we just converted the 57's 428 into a roller cam.
alright guys thanks a lot, and thanks for not flaming me. now that i understand things better i really am looking into getting one. i hear that the Ford racing E303 is good, and when i get new heads i will already have one. would it be alright to get it before i get the heads? or should i buy it then save it until i have the heads and put it all together at once??
just to clarify, from what you all tell me, i want to get a Hydraulic roller because they perform better right and are better for street use?? just don't want to mess this up.
__________________
1992 Mustang 5.0L LX
Cold air, 65mm Throttle body, Cobra Upper and
Lower w/ 1 inch spacer,
FRPP 3.73's, BBK Under pullies,
Mac H-Pipe, Mac Cat Back, Rebuilt AOD with Transgo
stage 2 shift kit, and a 2500 stall coverter.
more to come in time.
Stay away from Ford Racing "alphabet" cams! The Ford Racing cams were great when they first came out, however it has been discovered that the Ford small block works best with a higher lift and longer duration on the exhuast side of the cam. TFS and Comp cams make much better street/performance cams than Ford Racing. I would personally wait on buying a cam until you pick out which heads and intake combo you will use first. Since the cam is the brain of the engine, it is vital to match the intake and the heads to the cam and to the use of the car. Different styles of cam profiles operate at different RPMs. It is pointless to use a 2500-6500 rpm cam with an intake designed to operate between 1500-5500. You're best bet is to contact Comp cams tech line AFTER you decide which heads and intake you will use. They will match a cam, even one that's not theirs, to match your setup and use. A cam is too important of a part to be recommended by a bunch of internet mechanics without knowing all of the details of yuor car and driving style.
To answer the last question....yes, you want a hydraulic roller cam.
the alphabet cams arent that bad, (im using one now) it all depends on what your going to be using the car for. i called comp cams to see what they would recommend (after explaining that the car is for street and wont see any real amount of track work) and they gave me a part number but said that it wouldnt be much of a differance in peformance compared to the e-cam. that being said i didnt get it because i didnt feel it was going to be worth the price of the cam and the work i would have to pay someone to do just to basically get the same performance.
funny thing is AFR recommended one cam and Comp another, go figure.
alright guys thanks a lot, and thanks for not flaming me. now that i understand things better i really am looking into getting one. i hear that the Ford racing E303 is good, and when i get new heads i will already have one. would it be alright to get it before i get the heads? or should i buy it then save it until i have the heads and put it all together at once??
just to clarify, from what you all tell me, i want to get a Hydraulic roller because they perform better right and are better for street use?? just don't want to mess this up.
Your car already has a hydraulic roller setup, and that is what you should stick with. All you need to do is swap the cam, you can retain all the other pieces.
that is an awsome site, i really like the little animation. i think i will try and contact both AFR (the head i want) and comp cam to see what they have to say. thanks a lot guys, i really do not have any more questions so i will save this tread in to remind me of everything.
Actually one last question, is it easier to put the cam in with the engine out, or is it a real mess to do it with in still in the car? :worsh
someday maybe, i will know as much as you guys.
__________________
1992 Mustang 5.0L LX
Cold air, 65mm Throttle body, Cobra Upper and
Lower w/ 1 inch spacer,
FRPP 3.73's, BBK Under pullies,
Mac H-Pipe, Mac Cat Back, Rebuilt AOD with Transgo
stage 2 shift kit, and a 2500 stall coverter.
more to come in time.
that is an awsome site, i really like the little animation. i think i will try and contact both AFR (the head i want) and comp cam to see what they have to say. thanks a lot guys, i really do not have any more questions so i will save this tread in to remind me of everything.
Actually one last question, is it easier to put the cam in with the engine out, or is it a real mess to do it with in still in the car? :worsh
someday maybe, i will know as much as you guys.
It is much easier with the engine out, but very possible with it still in there.
i do not understand cams, need some teaching 
, msd cap and rotor, bosch wires, autolite plugs, 5 inch auto gauge tach with recal and blue lensed shift light, PAPER FILTER 
I knew that.
