Any tips to remove the bushing in the differential that goes to the upper control arm
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Any tips to remove the bushing in the differential that goes to the upper control arm
Yesterday I removed my two upper control arms and replaced the bushing in each arm, but I still need to change the one that's in the rear end. It's "in there like an alabama tick" as Jesse Ventura said. There is no room to get behind it it and whack it with a hammer.
I can hit it but not as hard as when I had the control arms off the car. One thing I am afraid of is , once I get it out, will the new one go in or does it need to be pressed in ?
I really really dont feel like removing the rear end for two stupid bushings. Do autopart stores rent tools for that ?
A small tip also, if you are changing control arms or bushings, only remove ONE arm at a time. This will save you lots of time when you go to put them back on. I had to remove the bottom shock bolt and quad shock and raise / lower the opposite side. Very uncool.
My rear end used to squeak a lot and now ceases to do so. Very good change.
You can buy the bushing puller as shown above or you can take a drill and riddle the old bushing with holes and then it will collapse and come out easier.
i used an pneumatic air chisel, a little persuasion and they popped out, as for the new ones put them in square and slight tapping with a hammer or something similar and they should go in
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1987 Mustang GT Convertible
1985 Mustang Drag Car Project
2007 Mustang GT
Too many mods and parts to list.....
Was digging through 12+ years of Stang rags for another article, and
found one where they used a hole-saw to drill it out. I noticed that
they had a nice angle-drill though. That's what I'm gonna try, but with
a regular drill.
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1992 Deep Emerald Green Mustang GT Hatch, 5 speed, 2.73s, Mac fenderwell cold air intake, '93 Cobra MAF, Mac 70mm throttle body & spacer, Explorer intakes, Mac unequal headers & offroad pipe, Magnaflow catback, Walbro 110lph fuel pump, Jet adjustable FPR, MSD Blaster coil, Accel 8mm wires, FRPP aluminum quadrant, UPR firewall adjuster, stock cable, Granatelli upper control arms.
Waiting to go on: Granatelli lower control arms, and GT40 Iron heads!
So you're just going to replace the rubber and not the sleeve that the rubber is in? Replacements bushings are both the rubber and the sleeve, together, not separated. The sleeve is PRESS FIT to the axle housing.
So you're just going to replace the rubber and not the sleeve that the rubber is in? Replacements bushings are both the rubber and the sleeve, together, not separated. The sleeve is PRESS FIT to the axle housing.
If you can get the rubber out then you can take a chisel and collapse the bushing and pop it out.
Carefully use a torch to heat up the colar around the bushing until it starts to smoke, and push out the offending bushing. Kick it outside and let it stink out there!
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After building Porsches, I now realize how elementary American cars really are!
I did. Found the new urethane bushings just as hard to get back in. Lube them up real good, and use a big c-clamp to press them in. It's tough to work up in there...very little room!
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After building Porsches, I now realize how elementary American cars really are!
Hrmm... took us about two minutes to R&R each of the bushinigs using the tool I linked to above. But if you like jacking around with drills, chisels, torches, and the like, it's your choice. Me, I like to buy the right tools for the job.
What seems like a short cut usually ends up taking longer.
Tom Moss
88 GT 5spd Vert 3:73s, Flowmaster catbacks, stock cam +4°, GT40P heads & 1.7 rockers, Jet-Hot coated MAC P headers, 97 Explorer intake, 65mm TB and 19# Explorer injectors. 277RWHP/330RWTQ
Any tips to remove the bushing in the differential that goes to the upper control arm 
