Is the ceramic coating on headers worth the money?
I was just wondering if that Ceramic coating is worth it on these headers. I was looking at the BBK long tube's, and the difference is pretty substantial. Chrome is 239.99, and ceramic is 369.99. Is the ceramic still going to rust through eventually? If yes how much longer will it last? And last, in your opinion do you think it will be worth it? Thanks guys
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Cardinal Red '88 GT 5 speed, Cobra Upper/Lower, Dynomax complete Super-Turbo cat-back system, Turbo Coupe Rear 10" discs, 3:73 gears, SN95 Master Cylinder, Summit Racing adjustable proportioning valve, Spec Stage II kevlar clutch, steeda adjustable cable/quadrant, 73mm front calipers, P.A. Performance 130 amp alternator, 99 Contour Electric Dual Fans, Battery relocated, rebuilt 91 T-5, Mass Air conversion
I was just wondering if that Ceramic coating is worth it on these headers. I was looking at the BBK long tube's, and the difference is pretty substantial. Chrome is 239.99, and ceramic is 369.99. Is the ceramic still going to rust through eventually? If yes how much longer will it last? And last, in your opinion do you think it will be worth it? Thanks guys
I've seen sets that ahven't rusted out, and some that have. If you are very careful during the install and don't bang them up. The coat may last for a long time. But if you are careless, then that is when you might see the rusting.
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StAnGaHoLiC
'95GT, S Trim, 306, AFR 185's, RPM intake, XE270HR cam, and the rest of the bolt ons.
Best run to date with old combo: 12.2 @ 116mph w/ 1.78 60' on ET Streets.
www.flowtechinduction.com <--- He knows cams!
Ok, so you're saying that as long as i dont expose any of the metal, allowing rust to set in the metal without the coating it should be worth it right?
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Cardinal Red '88 GT 5 speed, Cobra Upper/Lower, Dynomax complete Super-Turbo cat-back system, Turbo Coupe Rear 10" discs, 3:73 gears, SN95 Master Cylinder, Summit Racing adjustable proportioning valve, Spec Stage II kevlar clutch, steeda adjustable cable/quadrant, 73mm front calipers, P.A. Performance 130 amp alternator, 99 Contour Electric Dual Fans, Battery relocated, rebuilt 91 T-5, Mass Air conversion
Yeah, it's worth it. The ceramic coating keeps the heat in the exhaust gas where it belongs, rather than heating up your engine bay by radiating off the tubes. They look sweet too. Cooler underhood temperatures have many benefits, and theoretically, the slightly hotter exhaust gas should make the cats more effective, hence, lowering emissions slightly.
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1992 Deep Emerald Green Mustang GT Hatch, 5 speed, 2.73s, Mac fenderwell cold air intake, '93 Cobra MAF, Mac 70mm throttle body & spacer, Explorer intakes, Mac unequal headers & offroad pipe, Magnaflow catback, Walbro 110lph fuel pump, Jet adjustable FPR, MSD Blaster coil, Accel 8mm wires, FRPP aluminum quadrant, UPR firewall adjuster, stock cable, Granatelli upper control arms.
Waiting to go on: Granatelli lower control arms, and GT40 Iron heads!
Actually ceramic headders are one of the best headers to get just because they dispurse heat better. They are more money, but if you got it, I would buy them.
By the way does anybody have experience with BBK long tubes??? They are a prett decent price, not like Bassani's $800 long tubes, I could probably never afford that, especially since I'd also have to buy an x-pipe, or h-pipe.
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Cardinal Red '88 GT 5 speed, Cobra Upper/Lower, Dynomax complete Super-Turbo cat-back system, Turbo Coupe Rear 10" discs, 3:73 gears, SN95 Master Cylinder, Summit Racing adjustable proportioning valve, Spec Stage II kevlar clutch, steeda adjustable cable/quadrant, 73mm front calipers, P.A. Performance 130 amp alternator, 99 Contour Electric Dual Fans, Battery relocated, rebuilt 91 T-5, Mass Air conversion
If you are worried about header heat , I would get a set of header wraps. Makes working on the engine bay a lot easier and less burned hands.
Header wraps look like ASS if you get anything on them like carb cleaner, grease or oil from your fingers.
I would stick to the coated headers, since I have had experience with pretty much every header out there and I have a set of Hedman HTC-coated headers and they have stayed clean for well over 245,000 miles. They have lasted the longest out of traditional black painted shorties, industrial plated Mac's shorties, and a few others without trying to bash anyone. Have you seen the new coating treatment on the Edelbrock headers???? Very cost effective and they look impressive. I am thinking about the Edelbrocks for the next car.
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"Mad" Max
1992 LX, thanks to Chicane Sport Tuning and some friends.. it is now wrapped with new graphics and ready to hit the streets AGAIN!!!!
im re-opening the case on the BBK longtubes. DONT BUY THE CHROME BBK LONGTUBES!!!!!!!! i have them, and after 1 winter OF SITTING IN THE GARAGE, they are rusty as balls. I repolished them over summer and they stain blue also. This year i sprayed WD-40 on em, before i put it away. GO WITH THE CERAMIC HEADERS!!!! I would definatly spend the extra money, matter of fact, ill prolly sell mine this summer and buy the ceramic ones. Other than that, they deffinatly work well and add extra torque.
Is the ceramic coating on headers worth the money? 
