[meangreen92]

The conclusion here is that when you have that long ground run, it is best
to have it make contact with the chassis at a few points in between. Also
very important, is the ground strap from the block or head to the firewall.
Another biggie is the EEC ground - this is the thin black wire that goes to
the negative battery terminal, it has the connecter that looks like a fuse-
holder. Then you've got the tons of harness grounds...

[Geeq]

From Working On imports...Here is the install of a Hyper Ground Kit...Works on Domestics too.

Hyper Ground/ Earthing kit ground points
1) battery to chassis ground
2) battery to intake manifold
3) intake manifold to opposite side of the engine head.
4) from the engine head to the tranny
5) from the engine head back to the battery...

While you're at it... You might as well address the Big 3 just in case you have dimming lights whenever your bass hits HARD.
1) #1 from above
2) engine to chassis ground
3) alternator to battery cable run

[GhostDog 5.0]

Originally Posted by Terrible Juan

Just make sure that you connect both ends of the ground cable to steel or cast iron, not aluminum. Not sure exactly where you connected yours on the AC bracket. Can you take pics? Interested in where you mounted it.

Now that you mention aluminum, and the trickflow intake is aluminum, is this a bad spot for the ground wire at the back of the intake ? ?

Here are some pics of how I did it.

[tmoss]

Ghost - those look fine. I can't see that you had acess to solder up the connectors, they just look crimped. If you don't have acess, drill a hole just through the top of the connectors and use a propane torch to fill the connector with solder as added insurance. Using some "no-ox" compound (grease like substance) between an electrical connector and the iron/aluminum it gets bolted to will help ensure galvanic corrosion does not take place. I put it on my battery connections and they never corrode. You can buy it at any store that sells electrical supplies.

[Terrible Juan]

Originally Posted by theblackone

lol but what if my cigarrette lighter doesnt work!!!!

Just use anything with a flame. A hair dryer will even work.

Ghost, those look alright. The ground on the back of the intake probably isn't doing much since it is aluminum, and I don't think you can ground stuff to alum. I'm still trying to debate whether the ones to your AC bracket are doing a good job or not, given your heads are alum. The only steel contact they are getting are the bolts.

If you wanted to have a 100% good contacting ground, you could always connect it to a header bolt.

[birdman076]

Couple of issues here,

1 if you do not have access to soldering equipment or elect not to solder and insist on just crimping, do not just crush the crimp flat with a hammer or whatever. Take a pair or regular pliers and hammer or squeeze them in a vise to make an indent in the middle of the crip. Most stereo shops, boating supply, hardware stores carry the proper crimping tool for bigger cable and will most times do it for free. Take the extra time and do it right, there is nothing more frustrating than to trouble shoot a ground problem later down the line. The flat crimp will come loose, heat cycles and vibration wreak havoc on electrical connections.

2 Aluminum is not a good conductor of electricity while it is awsome for heat. Header bolts are ok but with the heat cycles they go through and needing every bit of clamping force to ward off header leaks I would steer clear of mounting anything to them. A rear intake bolt would work well as it goes into the motor even though the intake is aluminum so you have fairly good contact and it would be somewhat hidden. Bell housing bolts as well, but are a little big for the lug on the cable so some modification would be necessary. I used a timing cover bolt but got a stainless replacement for the location, I would also suggest using Di-electric grease especially if you sanded to bare metal which is preferable. The grease will promote good electrical contact and ward off rust or oxidation.

[Terrible Juan]

The bird's the word.

[birdman076]

It would appear that Juan isn't so terrible after all!

[JUSTNLX]

Just to add my 2 cents.

I had problems with a good ground for the EEC. Did all the ground this ground that stuff. In the end I ran the ground cable along side the pos. cable from the battery all the way forward to the stock location on the front frame rail. Attached all the grounds with it, no problems. Starting and charging improved too. Now everytime I relocate a battery I run both pos. and neg. cables. all the way forward.

[Terrible Juan]

Where is the "stock location on the frame rail"? When I got my car, the negative battery cable was attached to the engine block somewhere underneath.

Also, how do you find the EEC ground? Is it just a thin black wire? I'd really like a pic of this because I'm not sure if I've ever touched this before.

[tmoss]

The factory mounts the large negative calbe to the aluminum timing chain cover. It was a biatch to get out. When I did get mine out, the threads and steel bolt were severely corroded due to galvanic corrosion of dissimilar metals. Rather than drill and tap fresh threads, I switched the mounting point to the front of the iron head. If you continue to use the timing chain cover, use the no-ax grease and torque the bolt to spec.

[JUSTNLX]

Originally Posted by Terrible Juan

Where is the "stock location on the frame rail"? When I got my car, the negative battery cable was attached to the engine block somewhere underneath.

Also, how do you find the EEC ground? Is it just a thin black wire? I'd really like a pic of this because I'm not sure if I've ever touched this before.

Like Tom said the factory ground is attached at the timing cover, but it is also attached at the frame rail under the battery tray. A factory cable runs from the neg side of the battery to the frame rail then on to the timing cover. The ground for the EEC is attached to the cable end at the battery. It has a black sqeeze release connector. The EEC ground should always go directly to battery ground

I will try to get a picture this weekend of my son's cable. (wow! that sounded bad!)

[Stangboy5666]

Hey, this worked out great. With a new alternator, ground strap and new positive cable, my engine is idling and running smoother than ever. Once i get my new IAC, it should be purring like a kitten... Thanks Juan

[Terrible Juan]

That's awesome.

[GhostDog 5.0]

No complaints here. Everything seems to be running great. Highly recommend anyone to upgrade their engine ground cable especially if you have your battery in the trunk.