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Old 02-02-2005   #31 (permalink)
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Here you go GhostDog,

Pic: Cable 1,
Shows the ground cable coming from battery to the frame rail just below where the battery use to set. There are two cables leading from there, one goes to one of the bolts on the motor mount to ground the engine, the other 8 gage wire goes up to the fender apron where the EEC and other grounds are attached

Pic: cable2,
Shows the EEC ground connector just below the washer bottle fill neck. The 8 gage wire attached to the fender apron with the EEC ground and other grounds

These are not very good pictures of my son's grounds. We just replaced the ground cable to the engine. I will try to get better pics.
Attached Thumbnails
how-upgrade-your-engine-ground-cable-pics-cable-1.jpg  how-upgrade-your-engine-ground-cable-pics-cable-2.jpg  
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Old 02-05-2005   #32 (permalink)
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Cool. Thanks for the pics. When I did the convertible to hard top swap , I redid the wires so I recognize those. Other might not though.
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Old 02-06-2005   #33 (permalink)
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I would recommend anyuone doing this kind of work to go to an electric supply house aned asking for a tube of "no-ox" grease to put in the connections to avoid corrosion and oxidation - works great on the battery terminals too.
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Old 02-06-2005   #34 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GhostDog 5.0
Cool. Thanks for the pics. When I did the convertible to hard top swap , I redid the wires so I recognize those. Other might not though.
Yeah, I'll try to get better pics. and label them. I'm just a little busy right now.
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Old 02-16-2005   #35 (permalink)
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justnlx Where all did you connect grounds at i am doing a relocation kit when i get my car out of storage. I want to run both cables all the way to the front.
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Old 03-09-2005   #36 (permalink)
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I recently installed an a/c eliminator kit and I bolted one cable to the head sort of like Juan did and one to the timing chain cover mechanical fuel pump location. No problems here.
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Old 05-07-2005   #37 (permalink)
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Default Ground cable!

You can also buy a ground cable from your local parts store. Standard Ignition makes premade double eyelet ended cables in various lengths and gauges. The part #s end in the letter L. I think they even make flat style braided ground cables too. It is definitely a good idea to upgrade block to frame ground. I had a '68 Mustang ground itself through the carb linkage years ago! Not a pretty sight!
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Old 07-20-2005   #38 (permalink)
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the mustang im about to buy has a problem that is kind of similar. when you run the car for about half an hour it needs too cool of again befor you can start it up. any clue to what that might be
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Old 07-21-2005   #39 (permalink)
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The Ignition module on the side of the distributor is most likely the problem.
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Old 08-21-2005   #40 (permalink)
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I wrecked my 5.0 and the whole front frame bent to the left. It tore my ground strap out of the swaybar bracket.
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Old 08-30-2005   #41 (permalink)
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Question, i'm planning on putting my battery in the hatch, where should I connect my ground? run it all the way to the front or run it to a subframe connector (i'm welding some full length ones in).
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Old 08-30-2005   #42 (permalink)
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subframes will be good. Then run a wire from the sub-frames to the block - not an aluminum piece though such as the timing cover, make it steel.
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Old 10-13-2005   #43 (permalink)
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I tried to do this mod, but I couldn't find a bolt that would thread into that hole on the heads. I tried an intake bolt and it acted like the threads were stripped. A driveshaft bolt wouldn't fit at all. I tried the same hole on the back of the pass. side head - same result. I'm reluctant to use the O2 sensor ground on the back of the driver side head. So, for now, I've got the cable bolted down using the front pass. side intake bolt, and the bracket which holds the charcoal canister. I did notice that the radio sounds better.
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Old 10-18-2005   #44 (permalink)
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Geeze I wish they made How-To videos on these kind of upgrades. Great info guys.
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Old 10-18-2005   #45 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by meangreen92
I tried to do this mod, but I couldn't find a bolt that would thread into that hole on the heads....
It's the same bolt that holds the air tube onto the back of the head.
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