after reading this i know my ground in my 95 cobra is no good. i relocated the battery to the trunk and ran the positive through the car up front to the fuse box and the negative i bolted to one of the long studs used to hold the battery box to the floor, so the ground cable doesn't even come out of the battery box. i took the original ground cable out to clean up the engine compartment so i will probably use it to ground the battery better. what do u guys think?
If you have subframe connectors (you should!) then connect the battery neg to the rear of the subframes and connect the front of them to the block. Use some 2/0 welding cable. Crimp and solder the connectors.
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Tom Moss
88 GT 5spd Vert 3:73s, Flowmaster catbacks, stock cam +4°, GT40P heads & 1.7 rockers, Jet-Hot coated MAC P headers, 97 Explorer intake, 65mm TB and 19# Explorer injectors. 277RWHP/330RWTQ
Before I did this, my car had the following symptoms
1. Would take awhile to start
2. Would sometimes die on me whilst driving
3. Turn signals were very slow
4. Lights would oscillate on me, thought it was the alternator
5. Turn signals would not flash while lights were on
6. Power windows would be EXTREMELY slow.
7. Car would run rough
8. Guages would not read right. Said I was driving while I had 300 degrees of temp
9. Voltmeter would read zero all the time
10. Tach wouldn't work right
Needless to say, this is all fixed. I"m planning on gettin better cable soon as I can, but this is a must for 5.0 Owners
Well I was at the auto part store the other day and I notice preassemble cables for starters. It had the big eye lugs already on both ends. I got under the car and found the small factor strap from the motor to the frame " by acedent it was just there looking at me when I got there" so I took it off and cleaned the areas good with a wire brush and connect my new fat ground wire. I't didn't help my slow window on my passager side " I was hoping" but my ABS light went out, it is intermittedly on so it may come back but maybe it will keep away any other problems Thanks
Well I was at the auto part store the other day and I notice preassemble cables for starters. It had the big eye lugs already on both ends. I got under the car and found the small factor strap from the motor to the frame " by acedent it was just there looking at me when I got there" so I took it off and cleaned the areas good with a wire brush and connect my new fat ground wire. I't didn't help my slow window on my passager side " I was hoping" but my ABS light went out, it is intermittedly on so it may come back but maybe it will keep away any other problems Thanks
I found out about those preassembled cables after I made my own. You only need it to be about a foot long too. They work just as good too!
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1991 Thunderbird SC: I <3 Blower Whine.
1993 LX 2.3 Convertible: Less than half of a 5.0
1989 LX 5.0 Hatch: Sold!
I was having a prob w/ severe bucking on hard accel.I know its a Mustang but didnt think it should buck like one.So I did a ohms check from the batt neg to the intake-(cobra) & had 5.9 ohms.I added a temporary gd & it went down to approx 3.7 ohms.Reroadtested & it seems good.Do you guys think this was my prob,or maybe its waiting until I come up on a snot nosed punk in a honda w/ a fart pipe.Should I also go from batt to strut tower?Also how should I secure the cables to the batt The original bolt on the batt terminal isnt long enough?
I've been checking my grounds out and they look a little wacky. Here's how they go.
1. Batt to head
2. 8 g wire from batt to fenderwell with the ECC and Crane HI-6S ground.
3. A ground strap from firewall to bellhousing bolt.
4. HEGO(orange wire) is attached to the same bellhousing bolt as #3
I did notice a nice pick-up in throttle reponse when I hooked up the Crane box. Maybe it completed a ground circuit or something.
What I'm I missing here? What may I need to add or change?
Would this proceedure be the same if you have the batt. in the stock location. Also when you test the resistance from the batt- to the intake manifold are you testing for total circuit resistance or just to the engine itself. Because if I am right and testing all things right I am reading over 26 ohms of resistance and I thought someone said 3 was normal. I have been having a problem with my car starting intermitently and I have changed everything possible except for the pos cable going to the starter could this be my problem.
26 ohms is way too high for a starter circuit - and so is 3 really. Replace the cable.
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Tom Moss
88 GT 5spd Vert 3:73s, Flowmaster catbacks, stock cam +4°, GT40P heads & 1.7 rockers, Jet-Hot coated MAC P headers, 97 Explorer intake, 65mm TB and 19# Explorer injectors. 277RWHP/330RWTQ
Thanks. 
done that 
