I've been dealing with a slow starting car ever since I owned this thing. I relocated the battery with a Summit kit a few months ago and used the 4 AWG that it came with and grounded the battery to the quad shock bracket on the frame of the car. Everything was cool, but the car still started up rather slow.
I decided to try out a new ground strap since my friends car started EXTREMELY slow when his battery ground cable was barely making a connection.
I bought some weird stereo amp wiring kit from Walmart for $25. It includes about 15' of 4 gauge cable and a bunch of misc. wires for hooking up a stereo amp and speakers. I used a few feet of the 4 gauge to upgrade my alternator wire and I had PLENTY leftover to hook up this ground strap.
Materials I used:
About 1 1/2' of 4 gauge cable
(2) 4 gauge ring terminals with 3/8 holes
(1) 7/16" course thread bolt about 3/4" long
Heat shrink tubing for 4 gauge wire
Here are some pics I took. This should be helpful, especially if you are just learning how to work on your car.
I bought these cable cutters from Lowes for about about $13. I tested them on a 2 gauge battery cable and it cut through it like butter. These are a must. http://home.comcast.net/~terriblejua...ap/cutters.jpg
Strip the new wire. I used a razor blade and lightly cut around it http://home.comcast.net/~terriblejua...trap/strip.jpg
I enlarged the hole of the terminal since its only 3/8" and it needs to fit a 7/16" bolt. http://home.comcast.net/~terriblejua...rap/dremel.jpg
Secure the lug into something stable. I used a c-clamp since I don't have a vice. Snip off small pieces of solder (1/4" or so) into a pile and place into the lug.
Slide on the heatshrink tubing.
Clean off the exposed wires on your cable. I used sandpaper. Make sure all the wires are nice and tight so it will slide into the lug without much resistance.
Add some flux to the wires if you aren't using solder that already has it. Heat the lug with a torch. My small butane torch (pictured below) did the job but it took a long time to melt the thick solder I used (.050").
As soon as all the solder is completely melted, dip the cable in there and remove the heat. Make sure that you push the cable in as far as you can and hold it steady for about 10 seconds. http://home.comcast.net/~terriblejua...rap/solder.jpg
Lightly heat the heatshrink tubing with a ligher or torch.. http://home.comcast.net/~terriblejua...heatshrink.jpg
Repeat on both ends and you'll have this. http://home.comcast.net/~terriblejua...p/complete.jpg
Next, I located a nice source of solid steel to attach the ground strap to. THE HEAD
. On my heads, there was a bolt hole free that is tapped for 7/16" course thread. I have stock heads, so if you do too this hole should be there. I sanded off the contact area with 200 grit sandpaper. Sanding off the surface is very important, especially if your heads are painted of rusty. I then found a spare bolt that went right in. http://home.comcast.net/~terriblejua...rap/mount1.jpg
I pointed the cable straight down and routed it underneath the power steering pump to the swaybar frame bracket. http://home.comcast.net/~terriblejua...p/swaybar1.jpg http://home.comcast.net/~terriblejua...rap/mount3.jpg http://home.comcast.net/~terriblejua...rap/mount4.jpg
The end result is my car starting up much faster, a steady battery gauge, highly increased
throttle response, and improved idle. The materials probably cost $10 at most, the cable being the most expensive.
If you have trouble locating 4 gauge wire, buy a factory battery ground cable from Ford or your local auto parts store and modify it as you need. The stock cable is VERY long and you will have plenty leftover.
I suggest all fox owners do this (if you haven't already) as the stock ground connections on our cars are very weak and are hardly sufficient. If you are having problems with some of the things that I just benefitted from, try it