my friend and i were arguing about how he doesen't think i know how to shift, he is saying i am a dumbass cuz i am losing speed cuz i redline first gear, all i need is as many people as i can get to say he is on crack and tell me that you sahift at the same point no matter what gear your in
__________________
89 fox, mostly stock, C&L 73mm MAF, bypassed coolant hoses to egr spacer, intake silencer removal, no a/c, all options but power mirrors?? blown cats, msd cap and rotor, bosch wires, autolite plugs, 5 inch auto gauge tach with recal and blue lensed shift light, PAPER FILTER I BOUGHT ONE!!!!!!! felpro gasgets on everywhere accept oil pan and a nice big classic mustang decal on my back window
but every gear? or just some? this guy was telling me that first in a mustang u should shift @ 4000 then 5-5500 every other gear even though he has never owned a mustang and has only ever driven one...
__________________
89 fox, mostly stock, C&L 73mm MAF, bypassed coolant hoses to egr spacer, intake silencer removal, no a/c, all options but power mirrors?? blown cats, msd cap and rotor, bosch wires, autolite plugs, 5 inch auto gauge tach with recal and blue lensed shift light, PAPER FILTER I BOUGHT ONE!!!!!!! felpro gasgets on everywhere accept oil pan and a nice big classic mustang decal on my back window
Your main goal in the beginning is to get through first gear with as much power as possible while maintaining traction. I doubt that you will be maintaining traction if you red line first gear. Well that's with 3.73 gears, I havent been with stock gears in a long time so it could be somewhat easier.
I think redlining is dumb especially with your mods. Your stock intake doesnt flow well in the higher RPMS so there is no need to starve your front cylinders of even more air. I would take it to 5200 rpms max. No need to go to 6500 or so RPM. So you would be making your motor work extremely hard when you could just shift, make it work less, be on your way to more power in 2nd gear.
i have 2.73's in addition to that, 235/75/15's traction is not the issue in my case, also, when i say redline, i mean 5000, where the yellow starts
__________________
89 fox, mostly stock, C&L 73mm MAF, bypassed coolant hoses to egr spacer, intake silencer removal, no a/c, all options but power mirrors?? blown cats, msd cap and rotor, bosch wires, autolite plugs, 5 inch auto gauge tach with recal and blue lensed shift light, PAPER FILTER I BOUGHT ONE!!!!!!! felpro gasgets on everywhere accept oil pan and a nice big classic mustang decal on my back window
ok well thats not even close to redline, I have stock gears and that seems like a pretty decent shiftpoint. With a stock intake there is absolutely no reason (unless you would like to rebuild your motor real soon) to take it much above 5000. 5500 max i think. You dont make hardly any power, because your engine is totally starved for air, and you are just putting extra stress on it. Its more about what RPMs it drops to in 2nd than how far you rev above 4500 when the power band begins to crest in first.
By the way isnt the rev limiter at 6500 in our Foxes guys?
__________________
Cardinal Red '88 GT 5 speed, Cobra Upper/Lower, Dynomax complete Super-Turbo cat-back system, Turbo Coupe Rear 10" discs, 3:73 gears, SN95 Master Cylinder, Summit Racing adjustable proportioning valve, Spec Stage II kevlar clutch, steeda adjustable cable/quadrant, 73mm front calipers, P.A. Performance 130 amp alternator, 99 Contour Electric Dual Fans, Battery relocated, rebuilt 91 T-5, Mass Air conversion
62 i believe, but my question is not what rpm do u shift it, it's do you shift @ the same point every time? or do u shift @ different points for different gears, when racing and pulling up the rear (cuz u will use all the hp and torque u have) cuz i am thinking u run it to the optimum shift point no matter what gear ur in, also wouldn't that make a shift light pointless?
__________________
89 fox, mostly stock, C&L 73mm MAF, bypassed coolant hoses to egr spacer, intake silencer removal, no a/c, all options but power mirrors?? blown cats, msd cap and rotor, bosch wires, autolite plugs, 5 inch auto gauge tach with recal and blue lensed shift light, PAPER FILTER I BOUGHT ONE!!!!!!! felpro gasgets on everywhere accept oil pan and a nice big classic mustang decal on my back window
Ok, well Personally everyone shifts points will be different.
Whenever you go and "dyno" your car the computer print outs some information. Use the information and see when you hp starts to "fall". Mine is at 5200 RPMS and that it was I shift at. I am shifting at the max of my HP and Tq numbers.
Now others I know shift alittle sooner or higher depending upon how the graph reads. Mods effect different points.
Also, at the track or just racing, I shift between 5200-5400 RPMS all the time. This nets me CONSISTENT times. I tried the "redline" every gear trick and well my et and MPH were slower than shifting at IDEAL points. And yes I tried shifting at lower ones as well. Not any better.
A stock 5.0 upper and lower intake are starving for air at higher rpms.
Also with 2.73's and 225-60r15 KUHMO street tires I was putting down 8.8 consisitent with the setup. I could not sqeeze anything else out with the mods I was working with and without any suspension or weight reduction. I am sure with a good set of tires I could have.
What I would do is shift no LATER than 5500 RPMS in any gear. Do not listen to him when he says shift at different rpms. I do not see the logic behind this. Because you want to be in your "powerband" in every single gear. And not lower in one and higher the next.
__________________
'89 LX 5.0 Hatchback
For accuracy on your track times. GO TO THE TRACK!
8.1 with 5spd et streets
AOD all motor 8.8@78 mph street tires
125 shot nitous 7.51@91 mph street tires
if cars were supposed to be shifted at different rpm's for different gears, then why would anyone have ever invented a shift light. they are designed to help you shift at the same rpm everytime. just think of it that way.
__________________
1998 SVT Cobra #4941 of 5174 built on June 19,1998
4.30s, Speedcal, WMS CAI, Pro 5.0 shifter, Sniper Tuner, March pulleys, Mac O/R H pipe, Flowmaster orig. 40's, King Cobra clutch, D/S rotors, FRPP 9mm's, Max. Motorsports C/C plates, Termy front control arms, H&R SS springs, MM solid steering rack bushings, Tokico HP struts and shocks, Mac subrames, HID Bi-Xenon 6000k kit, Saleen 18" wheels, Saleen S-281 spoiler, sequential tails
Up Next: Termi diff, 31 spline Axles, LPW girdle, MM LCAs
oh yeah the other thing i liked was how he told me i don't know anything about cars he baises this on the fact that i get advice from this site i am thinking wtf?!?!?!
__________________
89 fox, mostly stock, C&L 73mm MAF, bypassed coolant hoses to egr spacer, intake silencer removal, no a/c, all options but power mirrors?? blown cats, msd cap and rotor, bosch wires, autolite plugs, 5 inch auto gauge tach with recal and blue lensed shift light, PAPER FILTER I BOUGHT ONE!!!!!!! felpro gasgets on everywhere accept oil pan and a nice big classic mustang decal on my back window
i have 2.73's in addition to that, 235/75/15's traction is not the issue in my case, also, when i say redline, i mean 5000, where the yellow starts
It is not that traction is not an issue with those tires, it is that you have effectively reduced your gear ratio by so much that it cannot break the tires loose. Why do you have 235 75R15's on the back of a Mustang?
You went from a 26 inch tall tire stock to a 29 inch tall tire? In order to keep the gear ratio consistant with stock you would need at least a rear gear ratio of 4:10 to overcome that tire height.
i believe shiftlights were added to a car, so that the driver didn't have to take his eyes off the track when racing........i know when i street race, i use the light all the time, that way i can concentrate on the road and not the sound of my motor.........just my .02
hotwheels of turborides
__________________
my cars:
1992 mustang gt twinturbo'd
1988 mustang gt bottlefed
2004 mach 1 collecting dust
1989 mustang coupe 4cyl.
1980 mustang coupe 4cyl.
Insanemustangs.com
At what RPM should you shift ? (Redline argument) 
, msd cap and rotor, bosch wires, autolite plugs, 5 inch auto gauge tach with recal and blue lensed shift light, PAPER FILTER 
In order to keep the gear ratio consistant with stock you would need at least a rear gear ratio of 4:10 to overcome that tire height.
