My 94 cobra is still sputtering, the fuel pressure at idle is 33lbs then when i give it gas to hold it at 3000rpm it goes up to 34 and then down to 32 and you can hear the motor sputtering every other second. When I give it a lot of gas it goes up to 40. Is this normal and any other ideas? thanks dave
your supose to pull the vac hose off the reg at idle and then stock psi is 38-42 s most cars are in that range stock. mine is kind of modified and it likes 46 psi at idle with vac line off
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94 gt aode baumannator,pi stallion 3000 stall,transgo,mega bite jrs,3.90 gears,31 spine moser axles,comp exteme,1.7 roller rockers,190 pump,mac cold air,ford 1 5/8 unequals, off road h,flowmaster 2 chamber with stainless tails,msd box,PIH(a9p computer ajustable fan controler),q1a k-member,kenny brown frame ties,driveshaft loop,air pump eliminator kit,bbk 70mm tb,pro-m bullit meter,24#injecters,ported heads&intake,and all the little bolt ons.
I would start off with what wayne94 said. Did you ever find any codes? I wonder if your iac motor is screwed up. I had a situation with my explorer where it was sticking and it was causing terrible sputtering.
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13.4@106mph (on old 302, no ET's on stroker yet)
'94 GT 347 Stroker, TFS stage 2 cam (.542 lift), AFR 185 heads, Edelbrock Performer RPM intake, 30 lb injectors, 77mm Pro-M, Fox Accufab 75mm Throttle Body, 255lph fuel pump, Mac fox style Long Tube headers, Tremec TKO, aluminum driveshaft, 3.73 gears , Flowmaster 2 chamber, chrome Cobra R 17x9's, Steeda radiator, Eibach Sportline springs, Tweecer RT
well i checked the fpr and its ok, im wondering if i have a bad injector??? but i dont have another set of 24's around. what and how do i check the iac? And its not showing any codes. help!!!
Are you going by the check engine light not being on? I have seen codes before when it didnt show the CE light. Also, what do your plugs look like? Where is timing set at? Unplug the IAC harness and see if the engine stalls. If it does then its ok, if it still runs then it may be sticking. You can remove it and clean it wiht some carb cleaner or something like that. I dont know if this is your problem. Have you taken it to the Ford dealership yet?
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13.4@106mph (on old 302, no ET's on stroker yet)
'94 GT 347 Stroker, TFS stage 2 cam (.542 lift), AFR 185 heads, Edelbrock Performer RPM intake, 30 lb injectors, 77mm Pro-M, Fox Accufab 75mm Throttle Body, 255lph fuel pump, Mac fox style Long Tube headers, Tremec TKO, aluminum driveshaft, 3.73 gears , Flowmaster 2 chamber, chrome Cobra R 17x9's, Steeda radiator, Eibach Sportline springs, Tweecer RT
I ran a code scanner on it and there are no codes.Timing is at 13dg The autolight plugs are gapped at 56 and i have a crane ignition,but im going to some ngkr's.When i unplug the iac it stalls right away. Ive replaced the o2 sensors, fuel filter, plugs, tried another cap and rotor and the car sat for 9 months while i put a new 302 in it because my vortech likked the last bottom end. I also plugged the heads in the back where the smog stuff went and eliminated the smog pump. any other ideas im out of them? dave
Last edited by youlluzracing; 01-21-2005 at 06:16 PM.
How bad is the surge? Sounds like it could be a coil. It seems like you have checked everything that I would have. Did yoiu ever take it to a ford dealership to get it looked at? If not I would consider since you have tried everything else.
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13.4@106mph (on old 302, no ET's on stroker yet)
'94 GT 347 Stroker, TFS stage 2 cam (.542 lift), AFR 185 heads, Edelbrock Performer RPM intake, 30 lb injectors, 77mm Pro-M, Fox Accufab 75mm Throttle Body, 255lph fuel pump, Mac fox style Long Tube headers, Tremec TKO, aluminum driveshaft, 3.73 gears , Flowmaster 2 chamber, chrome Cobra R 17x9's, Steeda radiator, Eibach Sportline springs, Tweecer RT
havent taken it to the dealership yet , i hate doing that (dont trust them with my baby).... Ill check the coil, when im reving it in neutral at 2500 to 3500 it will sputter about once every other second on and off and drop the rpm's 25-50 rmp when it does. So ill try that and tell mw if you have any other ideas from what i told ya.... thanks for the help dave
You said that it will die when you unplug the Idle Air Controller, if you are
sure everything else is working properly, I would probably try opening up
the throttle a bit, and then unplugging it. I mean see if you can keep it run-
ning with the IAC unplugged. If it doesn't take much more throttle to keep
it running, then adjust your idle screw setting accordingly. Then reset your
TPS.
Didn't the car throw codes for the missing smog stuff?
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1992 Deep Emerald Green Mustang GT Hatch, 5 speed, 2.73s, Mac fenderwell cold air intake, '93 Cobra MAF, Mac 70mm throttle body & spacer, Explorer intakes, Mac unequal headers & offroad pipe, Magnaflow catback, Walbro 110lph fuel pump, Jet adjustable FPR, MSD Blaster coil, Accel 8mm wires, FRPP aluminum quadrant, UPR firewall adjuster, stock cable, Granatelli upper control arms.
Waiting to go on: Granatelli lower control arms, and GT40 Iron heads!
Ya it threw the codes for the smog stuff but nothing else.... ill try that stuff and get back to ya. Whats the right volts for the tps?
.98 OR .99 volts with the throttle closed (Key On Engine Off) is a good start-
ing point. I've read here that some Stangs like a little less. The green is
positive, you can use the black for negative, or use one of the throttle body
studs as a ground. I prefer the wire.
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1992 Deep Emerald Green Mustang GT Hatch, 5 speed, 2.73s, Mac fenderwell cold air intake, '93 Cobra MAF, Mac 70mm throttle body & spacer, Explorer intakes, Mac unequal headers & offroad pipe, Magnaflow catback, Walbro 110lph fuel pump, Jet adjustable FPR, MSD Blaster coil, Accel 8mm wires, FRPP aluminum quadrant, UPR firewall adjuster, stock cable, Granatelli upper control arms.
Waiting to go on: Granatelli lower control arms, and GT40 Iron heads!
well i tried the tps and it was at .964 and i put it to .985 and no change but i guess it was off a bit... other than that i have no clue? What will a bad injector do ? and how can you check them? dave
A bad injector will cause a miss.
You can get the computer to test them. As soon as it gives you your last
"engine running" code, wait a few seconds and push in the throttle. The
computer will drop out each injector and measure the RPM drop. This
takes a few minutes. When it's done you should get nine flashes of the
check engine light - or what ever your scanner does. I know this works
on '89-'93s. The '94-'95s throw three digit codes. 900 would be a pass,
100 would be cyl.#1, 500 would be cyl. #5. You can repeat the test two
times (to tighter tolerances) by blipping the throttle after the last code
flashes.
Also check for a pinched injector wire, that's been known to happen.
If the computer test doesn't work, you can try unplugging the injectors
one at a time.
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1992 Deep Emerald Green Mustang GT Hatch, 5 speed, 2.73s, Mac fenderwell cold air intake, '93 Cobra MAF, Mac 70mm throttle body & spacer, Explorer intakes, Mac unequal headers & offroad pipe, Magnaflow catback, Walbro 110lph fuel pump, Jet adjustable FPR, MSD Blaster coil, Accel 8mm wires, FRPP aluminum quadrant, UPR firewall adjuster, stock cable, Granatelli upper control arms.
Waiting to go on: Granatelli lower control arms, and GT40 Iron heads!
You'll hear it lean out. If one of them doesn't change the sound of the
engine, then it's your culprit. I know it's easier said than done. Yeah,
I'm not sure if the '94-'95s have the injector balance testing capabilities.
I've run it on my '92, (always passed). So that function might only be on
A9L and A9P processors.
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1992 Deep Emerald Green Mustang GT Hatch, 5 speed, 2.73s, Mac fenderwell cold air intake, '93 Cobra MAF, Mac 70mm throttle body & spacer, Explorer intakes, Mac unequal headers & offroad pipe, Magnaflow catback, Walbro 110lph fuel pump, Jet adjustable FPR, MSD Blaster coil, Accel 8mm wires, FRPP aluminum quadrant, UPR firewall adjuster, stock cable, Granatelli upper control arms.
Waiting to go on: Granatelli lower control arms, and GT40 Iron heads!