Lunati Street/Strip cam with stock E7 valve springs
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Lunati Street/Strip cam with stock E7 valve springs
Would this cam work safely with stock valve springs on E7 heads? I don't plan on running it over 6,000 rpm. I found this Street Strip Hyd Roller Cam - Ford 351W 302HO 284/292 - Lunati Power for $135 slightly used and its $350 new. I think I'm going to go ahead and buy it. If I do need new valve springs its not a deal breaker since I'm getting the cam so cheap.
Cam Specs:
Hydraulic roller, fair idle. Good cam for replacing your factory HO cam with far more torque and horsepower than stock. Needs 2500 RPM stall converter, headers, 9:1 compression ratio and 3.55 gearing or better.
Advertised Duration (Int/Exh): 284/292
Duration @ .050 (Int/Exh): 218/226
Gross Valve Lift (Int/Exh): .500/.510
LSA/ICL: 112/108
Valve Lash (Int/Exh): Hyd/Hyd
RPM Range: 2000-6000
Includes: Cam Only
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Medium Titanium Metallic '90 5.0 LX auto Hatchback, black interior: restoring Royal Blue '93 LX 2.3L 5 spd hatchback: parts car
'06 Ford Escape XLS 2.3L 5 speed 65,000 miles mods: Jones Deflector muffler 2nd cat delete, Pioneer MVH-150UI head unit
you must have new lifters with a new cam and yeah matching springs...not the time to cheap out on your car, get a matching set
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1995 Mustang GT Cnv 427 stroker
1996 Cobra with Kenne Bell 2.1 Supercharger dynoed at 12psi: makes 412whp/424wtq on E85: 250K miles on stock engine
2003 Infiniti M45 V8 340 hp
"What do you do besides drive fast?" "Have fun...."
Only with flat tappet lifters. Hydraulic rollers can be reused. If they have a few miles on them it may be a good time to replace anyway, but not necessary.
Its a roller cam I and the lifters still look pretty good, so I'm not to worried about them. We just bought a set of reman E7 heads that came with valve springs that are OE quality or better. I don't want to trash them unless I have to. I told my dad he'd need to check for coil bind when he gets ready to put the engine back together. I'm just curious what the limits are for new OE style springs. Some sites say .510" others say .500", and a few say .490".
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Medium Titanium Metallic '90 5.0 LX auto Hatchback, black interior: restoring Royal Blue '93 LX 2.3L 5 spd hatchback: parts car
'06 Ford Escape XLS 2.3L 5 speed 65,000 miles mods: Jones Deflector muffler 2nd cat delete, Pioneer MVH-150UI head unit
I think the limits of stock springs is .480 or .490 but you always gotta check. It is tough to constitute spending good hard earned cash on stock E7's but a spring upgrade might be in your future.
Measure 3 times cut once.
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1989 Sonic Blue Mustang LX Coupe, 349 ci, TW heads, TFS Track Heat intake, 75mm Accufab TB, 80mm ProM, 30 lb inj., Jay Allen cam, TKO, 3.73, 31 spline w/ TruTrac, MAC 1-5/8" LT headers w/ h-pipe, 2-1/2 flowmaster, electric fan oh and a Moates QH 392 rwhp 424 rwtq....Mustang Dyno
You could pick up a set of Alex's Parts springs for ~$90 and not be worried.
Someone with much more experience than I told me it's the stock spring rate that will bite you, not necessarily the bind. Again, not from personal experience, but what I was told.
Years ago I did a B303 camshaft with 1.7:1 roller rockers and stock springs on a pair of GT40 heads. That combination generated 0.510 in. of net valve lift. It ran and nothing broke, but the engine ran better and sounded better when I upgraded the springs. I only used the stockers for a few hundred miles, no hard driving.
Thanks for the advice guys. New heads weren't really in the budget for me, I was going to keep the old ones but they're pretty bad. I figured I'd save money by getting a set that was already refurbished for around $250 and selling mine old ones for $50. I couldn't find a set of GT40s in that price range that were ready to go. The E7s are getting thoroughly ported. My high school shop instructor knows a guy that will port them for free and he does really good work. I sent him a porting guide I found that shows the areas that need work. The end product should be pretty close to as cast GT40 performance if he has time to follow every step. We are hoping to have the heads ready and the block back from the machine shop a month or so since Christmas is coming up.
I wasn't going to replace the cam either but the original one was badly pitted and couldn't be saved. I had originally planned on doing a stock rebuild, I was only going to upgrade to head studs and get good head gaskets. I wanted to save my money to beef up the trans., brakes, and suspension. I want to build a safe, solid cruiser with decent handling characteristics. I'm also considering adding a turbo later, probably in a few years.
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Medium Titanium Metallic '90 5.0 LX auto Hatchback, black interior: restoring Royal Blue '93 LX 2.3L 5 spd hatchback: parts car
'06 Ford Escape XLS 2.3L 5 speed 65,000 miles mods: Jones Deflector muffler 2nd cat delete, Pioneer MVH-150UI head unit
Lunati Street/Strip cam with stock E7 valve springs 
