what kind of job is replacing the clutch quadrant? i was goin to get a new clutch cable and thought i might as well do the quadrant also with a billet one or something. i was recently under the dash doing my brake booster and that area is not very user friendly if you are 6 foot or taller. (the top brake booster nuts suck) i want to have my clutch quadrant done but i dont like being under the dash, are there any things i shoudl watch out for or any tips or special tools i might need?
thanks-arlo
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Sr. Master Ford nerd.
saludos caballeros del ovalo azul
I just replaced mine with a Ford Motorsport quadrant and let me tell you... It's a royal pain in the ass! ..at least for me it was.
Unless you are a master of the Art of Yoga, take out the driver seat! or you will be bending and twisting your back in ways you haven't thought possible!
In my 93 GT, the stock quandrant is a white piece of plastic accompanied by a small piece next to it. I forgot what the small piece is called. Removal of the of quadrant is no problem. The springs that attach to the quadrant will no longer be needed. It's was the smaller piece that made me vow never to do this type of thing again!
The smaller piece rests on a little metal post and is held down by a spring which you will no longer need. Removal of this piece was nearly impossible without bending or breaking something else because it rests along side the firewall.
After 2 nights of saying every swear word in the English language and in every possible combination, my solution can be considered "unorthodox". I took a dremel and attached a stone drill bit. I then melted that damn piece of plastic right off! Once the small plastic piece is removed, all was good.
All this work was done while on my back, looking up into the dash. My back was arched against the side of the car. Now i know how it feels to be given a Back-Breaker!
This is not to discourage you. An experienced mechanic can do it in about an hour. If you are set in doing it yourself, do your back a favor and remove the driver's seat. If i ever needed to do this again, i will gladly pay a mechanic to do it for me. Basic tools are needed- long philips & flat head screwdriver and long-nose pliers (the type where it's angled at the end is recommended).
yea i was planning on taking out the seat cuz i learned my lesson with the brake booster. damn my ranger and alot of other cars expedition, explorer, escape, taurus, you get the pic are not even close to that cramped. yea i just dont like how everything is soo close together also. thats what makes it time consuming. thanks for the input saleen owner and blk93mustanggt. mine is a 93 too. thanks- arlo
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Sr. Master Ford nerd.
saludos caballeros del ovalo azul
From what I remember you just remove the slide in cotter pin and it should basically slide all the way to the right. It can take some cursing and breaks to get the SOB out of there. In a last minute effort you could do like 93BlkMustangGT said and take a dremel to it. This would of course ruin it but if you plan on launching it anyways , it sure would cut the time down.
Setting the clutch cable tightness to your liking can be a pain constantly going underneath the car and tightening the clutch cable.
That spring that loads the pawl must be removed (or at least unloaded)
to remove the pawl. I was able to get the pawl off by pushing the pedal to
the floor, and rotating the pawl to a position where it would slide off. Might
almost be less hassle to unbolt the whole pedal support in some cases
though. I did my '92 in 20 degree (f) weather.
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1992 Deep Emerald Green Mustang GT Hatch, 5 speed, 2.73s, Mac fenderwell cold air intake, '93 Cobra MAF, Mac 70mm throttle body & spacer, Explorer intakes, Mac unequal headers & offroad pipe, Magnaflow catback, Walbro 110lph fuel pump, Jet adjustable FPR, MSD Blaster coil, Accel 8mm wires, FRPP aluminum quadrant, UPR firewall adjuster, stock cable, Granatelli upper control arms.
Waiting to go on: Granatelli lower control arms, and GT40 Iron heads!
The only other useful thing I can add would be to use one of those "spring operated grabber" type tools, (thin tube, with a "plunger" on one end, and 4 little claws on the other) That was how I pulled and reinserted the cotter pin on mine. And getting the old quad off and the new one on was a cast-iron
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'66 Mustang Coupe-AKA "Lenore"
'93 GT, AKA Fawkes, basically stock
Rice Haters Club Member #239
Carpe Noctum
Beer is my anti-drug
i had no problems at all really. i only weigh 180 though. it definitely would have been easier to remove the seat though. like it was said above, push the clutch in, remove the cotter pin, and it all will kida just fall off. then installing the new one is a seasy as just sliding it on and slipping on the clutch cable. good luck.
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1998 SVT Cobra #4941 of 5174 built on June 19,1998
4.30s, Speedcal, WMS CAI, Pro 5.0 shifter, Sniper Tuner, March pulleys, Mac O/R H pipe, Flowmaster orig. 40's, King Cobra clutch, D/S rotors, FRPP 9mm's, Max. Motorsports C/C plates, Termy front control arms, H&R SS springs, MM solid steering rack bushings, Tokico HP struts and shocks, Mac subrames, HID Bi-Xenon 6000k kit, Saleen 18" wheels, Saleen S-281 spoiler, sequential tails
Up Next: Termi diff, 31 spline Axles, LPW girdle, MM LCAs
ive done 3 clutch quadrants and i have to say they all sucked. i just did one last night and that little white piece is just rediculous. i couldnt get the spring off it. it was all bent up at the top. best thing to do Definetly take out the seat. my clutch quadrant went when i was at the store like 5 miles from my house.... figures and i had to take the thing out in the parking lot then drive it home without the clutch
how did you drive yourcar home without a clutch???
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1998 SVT Cobra #4941 of 5174 built on June 19,1998
4.30s, Speedcal, WMS CAI, Pro 5.0 shifter, Sniper Tuner, March pulleys, Mac O/R H pipe, Flowmaster orig. 40's, King Cobra clutch, D/S rotors, FRPP 9mm's, Max. Motorsports C/C plates, Termy front control arms, H&R SS springs, MM solid steering rack bushings, Tokico HP struts and shocks, Mac subrames, HID Bi-Xenon 6000k kit, Saleen 18" wheels, Saleen S-281 spoiler, sequential tails
Up Next: Termi diff, 31 spline Axles, LPW girdle, MM LCAs
you can drive a car without a clutch... very carefully :P although getting going is the fun part because there is no stopping and push starting is always fun
also make sure you get a good brand i got a know name one frome ebay that required some filing to enlarge the holes very agrivating doing several test fitings after your already mad from getting the old quadrent out
I actually have a Steeda Quadrant if anyone knows a buddy that needs one, I'll let it go for purdy cheap. I went ahead and bought the whole Steeda clutch cable kit for like $100-120, only put the cable on though.
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Traded: 1986 GT, 5spd, 92k miles
BBK 1 5/8 shorty headers, BBK Offroad H-Pipe, Flowmaster American Thunder catback, 5" Monster Tach with Shiftlight.
When I had my 86, I poked my head up under the dash to take a look at the Quad. I'm 5'10 130, omg.. whoever said it will kill your back.. boy you aint kiddin. I never knew my body was that flexible until I did that.
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Traded: 1986 GT, 5spd, 92k miles
BBK 1 5/8 shorty headers, BBK Offroad H-Pipe, Flowmaster American Thunder catback, 5" Monster Tach with Shiftlight.
Removed mine yesterday, it was a pain, but I've seen worst (long tube headers!!!!!!)
I tried to install the new one but it seems close to impossible...... It's like you can't slide it in both holes at the same time (why does this phrase sound funny ).
Any suggestions?
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1988 LX Hatchback, Longtubes, O/R H-pipe, Warlock mufflers, all poly bushing, Steeda Shifter, SN95 Electric fan, SN95 alternator, SN95 M/C, MarkVII from caliper, Tower brace, MSD 6AL, Steeda sport springs, KYB rear shocks
Clutch Quadrant question 
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