im lookin to get a 347 storker kit for my 302, its mostly stock, mods are in my sig. but which kit should i get and with what cam and other parts? i am eventually getting afr 185's also so which combination will be best. also what else must be done to the engine for the stroker kit to fit porperly.
thanks
__________________
'88 stang GT, 3.55 in the rear, Steda Pro short shifter, Steda Pro clutch pedal assembly, BBK 1 5/8" equal length headers, Off-road H-pipe 3" exhaust wit flowmaster, K&N filter, 180 degree thermostat, ported intake, 3core radiator, MSD box, u/d pullies, ac delete.. more to come
the kit is not bad, it uses the 351W crank, and shorter rods, with a 30 thou over bore, the hard part will come with the maching of the crank to give the proper size stroke, the lobes have to be changed i believe, and the block it's self must be machined to allow clearence for the larger crank, it's not easy... i would sujest doing what i do, make some good friends, get a few at h.perf. parts stores, and a few @ machine shops, if they don't know about it, they will point u in the right direction, this is something people won't screw with if they don't know how, generally they won't try to do the work check this page out, it will help u out, if u can understand it
wow cool i got the link thing to work
__________________
89 fox, mostly stock, C&L 73mm MAF, bypassed coolant hoses to egr spacer, intake silencer removal, no a/c, all options but power mirrors?? blown cats, msd cap and rotor, bosch wires, autolite plugs, 5 inch auto gauge tach with recal and blue lensed shift light, PAPER FILTER I BOUGHT ONE!!!!!!! felpro gasgets on everywhere accept oil pan and a nice big classic mustang decal on my back window
When building a stroker heads and cam along with the bottom end need to be well matched. One suggestion is everyone likes to build there on stroker, but in the end you have $'d yourself to death. If you take the normal prices of afr heads 1600 and the stroker kit of 1200 for a good one and about another 1000 for machine and balance work. there is 3800 not counting pan and girdles and stud bolts with gaskets. The reason I say all this is because I just went through the trouble of building one and total cost ended up about 5,800 the 430hp was nice, but I should have bought something like a DSS long block or a coast high performance long block. These come completely ready except for intake and fuel componets, and should be enough to get you in the 11's with ease. Hope this helps you out a little
if i do decide to go with a coast block, would it be a complete crate motor? and do i need to buy anything else or can i just use what is already in my car?
__________________
'88 stang GT, 3.55 in the rear, Steda Pro short shifter, Steda Pro clutch pedal assembly, BBK 1 5/8" equal length headers, Off-road H-pipe 3" exhaust wit flowmaster, K&N filter, 180 degree thermostat, ported intake, 3core radiator, MSD box, u/d pullies, ac delete.. more to come
The best way to go would be buying the complete long block. It comes with a pan all the way up to the heads. The only things you would need to do is put your intake and fuel set up on it along with the front engine accessories. The cobra intake you suggested would be fine, but if you are going with a 347 you might want to consider the holley systemax if it will stay NA. If you decide to shoot it go with the E Performer RPM. I would also use a minimum of 30lb injectors with an 80mm mass air. This should get you some peak performance. Also upgrade your fuel pump to a 255lph so it supply the amount that is needed with a stroker. GOOD LUCK and should be down in the 11's with setup.
alright thanks for everythin, but one more question. . . tires / rims? with that much power i know ill need more grab and will that much power rip apart the tranny and rear end? what would i have to do about that
__________________
'88 stang GT, 3.55 in the rear, Steda Pro short shifter, Steda Pro clutch pedal assembly, BBK 1 5/8" equal length headers, Off-road H-pipe 3" exhaust wit flowmaster, K&N filter, 180 degree thermostat, ported intake, 3core radiator, MSD box, u/d pullies, ac delete.. more to come
If you are going to run a street drag radial a good one to go with is the BFG drag radial a 275/60/15. A good slick would a m/t 26 10 15 If you have any weak spots in your tranny or rearend this much power will find it quick. Don't worry about any oil consumption most hight performance engine builders like coast and DSS have ringed and groved their setups were these problems have been eliminated. After this season I will be going with a new 347 from DSS. Now for reliability I would go with the 331 because usually they dont generate as much top Horsepower and cause less stress on the internals.
Go with DSS, CHP could mean trouble, 2 friends got CRAP from CHP, most noticeable crap was the CHINA MADE CRANKS, counterweights were looked like cheese with dozen holes in them and horribly balanced.
My brother has bought 2 engines from DSS, ZERO problems and they are helpfull over the phone.
275's will JUST fit, but 60 series is TALL!!!!!!! i would say go with a 275 50 15, it will give u about the same height as the 225's, the 275 60 15's will probibly rub on the fenderwell, shorter it will be close to the subframe but it shouldn't rub, and take my word, the 235/75/15's rub like a mother, going through an intersection shread them, and f u hop a curb you can kiss them good bye, i had about an inch of tread on them (snow tires) and the outer section was completely bald for a quarter turn where i hopped a curb, even my 255's rub when i go around a corner too fast, with the body roll, but i also have saging rear suspension
trust me about tires, i have been through more sets of rear tires on my stang since i have owned it (6 months or so) than i have had cars
oh and on a side thingy, i found it's cheaper to build a 393 with 500 hp, because of the 4 bolt mains on the cleavlend?
__________________
89 fox, mostly stock, C&L 73mm MAF, bypassed coolant hoses to egr spacer, intake silencer removal, no a/c, all options but power mirrors?? blown cats, msd cap and rotor, bosch wires, autolite plugs, 5 inch auto gauge tach with recal and blue lensed shift light, PAPER FILTER I BOUGHT ONE!!!!!!! felpro gasgets on everywhere accept oil pan and a nice big classic mustang decal on my back window