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Old 03-01-2005   #1 (permalink)
95blueoval is offline Made Member

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Default What block work is needed?

Well guys/gals,
Ive made up my mind. I am going with a stock 302 block with a girdle. So I guess that will limit my horsepower alot. But, I had to decide what I wanted out of my car in the long run. Something quick and reliabe! I just really hate screwing up my 13K Milw mint condition cobra with reaplacing every part known to man for just a quick street car. So I am just going to buy a used stock 302 block stuff with a 331 stroker and use my stock cobra intake with 165 AFR and a 75 shot.Sound good? That will be the extent of the motor work. I just finally realized the power range I was originally looking at was right on the border like everyone elses seemingly is. To much power for a stock block, but not want to fork over MAJOR money for a R302 or Dart block, and then not even using it to its full potential. And if I did use is to its full potential it wouldn't be the quick, RELIABLE, TRULY STREETABLE car I was originally look for.
Sorry for the long explanation, but I thought I'd let the fellow stangers know.


So what block work will be needed?

New Freeze plugs
Cam Bearings
Boring
Cleaning block

What about having it magnafluxed?
What about aline honing?
What about decking?
????Torque plate honing????

I am doing the stroker clearencing though


These are all things I have picked up over the years...Does all of it need to be done for a good rebuild? Am I missing anything? Let know guys!
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'94 Rio Red Cobra Mustang/15k miles
04/04/05-MAC 1 5/8 ceramic coated longtubes, MAC 2 1/2 durablack O/R H, Flowmaster American Thunder 2 1/2 Catback (S/S tips)
06/02/05-70mm BBK T/B, 76mm C&L MAS/intake system
01/31/06-FRPP 3.55's, GMS upper/lower control arms
I've enbarked on a never ending battle; to be the sh*t!
N.O.S. it's like a hott chick with an STD. You want to hit it, but your afraid of the consequences.
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Old 03-01-2005   #2 (permalink)
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Default

Have you considered getting a stroker short/long block from a reputable company such as D.S.S.?

If you plan on having all that machining done, it would pay to do some inspection. The decking affects all the components bolted to the top half of your motor. If too much is taken off, the lower intake may have to be milled. I would definitely have the honing done with torque plates. Definitely have a used block magnafluxed.

Some other things to consider:

1. The cam.
2. 185 heads instead of 165 for the 331.
3. The cam.
4. Rear end gears.
5. forged pistons.
6. exhaust.

It will be in your best interest to talk to someone about having a custom cam ground and a chip burnt if you really want to unlock the potential.
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Sold:('86 GT Jalapeno Red 'vert, 200,000 miles Lots of Mods!!!!

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Old 03-01-2005   #3 (permalink)
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I have thought about just getting short block, but that was one of the main reasons I wanted to do a motor; I want to try building it myself. Everyone had to build there first motor right? DSS I heard does make a killer short block though. I would like to think I am more than mechanically inclined enough, plus my dad built 2 motors for his 71 mach 1... so I figure between the 2 of us we can build a decent motor and I can get the experience I would love to have. Ummm I thought about the AFR 185's but I am afraid it would not be a good match with my stock cobra intake, also I want to keep the power down real low were I can use it..Im not much into the high revving motors.

What exactly is torque plate honing????
__________________
'94 Rio Red Cobra Mustang/15k miles
04/04/05-MAC 1 5/8 ceramic coated longtubes, MAC 2 1/2 durablack O/R H, Flowmaster American Thunder 2 1/2 Catback (S/S tips)
06/02/05-70mm BBK T/B, 76mm C&L MAS/intake system
01/31/06-FRPP 3.55's, GMS upper/lower control arms
I've enbarked on a never ending battle; to be the sh*t!
N.O.S. it's like a hott chick with an STD. You want to hit it, but your afraid of the consequences.
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Old 03-01-2005   #4 (permalink)
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All the machine shop does is bolt on a thick piece of metal to the decks using the tapped holes for the heads. This mimics a head bolted to the deck. Torquing the head bolts causes stresses in the block and can deform the bores. If you pre-stress the block and hone, the bores will be true after you bolt on your heads. This helps your rings seal and wear better than if you didn't.

I only suggested a long block because of price. By the time you add up all the money, the long block is the cheaper choice with no loss in qulaity.
__________________
Sold:('86 GT Jalapeno Red 'vert, 200,000 miles Lots of Mods!!!!

2006 Mustang GT
C&L Racer, Eibach, SCT, CHE, CMCV Deletes, PRP, 4:10s on the way.

New toy:
1989 Mustang 2.3L Auto. 5.0 waiting in the garage...
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