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Old 03-30-2005   #16 (permalink)
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yeah i got it running good now, big problem i found at a mustang shop, the vacuume line to the fuel pressure regulator was disconnected, so i had a vacuume leak and really high fuel pressure, i have my driving hc passing, and my idle hc double the limit, that was @ 600 rpm idle and 4 degrees total timing, (4 base with timing spout pulled) i have since, backed the timing down to 2degrees and brought the idle up to 1200 with spout pulled, just to get it through, this is what i was told to do by the mustang shop guy
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89 fox, mostly stock, C&L 73mm MAF, bypassed coolant hoses to egr spacer, intake silencer removal, no a/c, all options but power mirrors?? blown cats, msd cap and rotor, bosch wires, autolite plugs, 5 inch auto gauge tach with recal and blue lensed shift light, PAPER FILTER I BOUGHT ONE!!!!!!! felpro gasgets on everywhere accept oil pan and a nice big classic mustang decal on my back window
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Old 03-31-2005   #17 (permalink)
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You may need to do a little more troubleshooting. There are a lot of things that can cause your symptoms, but go with the most likely first. Since the problem started after you removed and replaced the spark plug wires, that was a good place to start looking for the problem. Now that you are sure that you have them installed correctly and that the timing is approximately correct, take a look at some other possibilities. Pulling the plug wires could have damaged one or more of them. Test each one individually and make sure that it is not broken and causing a misfire. If the plug wires check OK, try substituting a known good TFI module. If it still runs poorly, repost and we will continue. Good Luck with it.
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Old 03-31-2005   #18 (permalink)
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i da no it's fine now, i figure it was just crap that had settled in the cylinders from cranking it over with no spark @ the firing point, cuz it's fine now, it smoked less and less as time went on and i did some hard acceleration, it's fine now, but the emissions are high, been talking to people @ shops, took

it through last night with timing set to 4 degrees btdc with no bypas spout, idle at 900 rpm here are the readings,


driving test---------------max,----------------mine,----------average----------result
hydrocarbons(HC)--------89------------------44.00-----------30.50------------pass
carbon monoxide(CO) %0.67----------------0.03-------------0.03-------------pass
oxides of nitrogen (NOx) 986------------------74--------------443-------------pass

idle test
hydrocarbons(HC)----------83-----------------161-------------39---------------fail
Carbon Monoxide (CO)% 0.51----------------0.02-----------0.03-------------pass


i took it through again today, timing set to 2 degrees btdc again bypass spout removed, and idle at 1200 rpm these are the readings from that,


driving test-------------max-----------------mine-------------average---------result
hydrocarbons-----------89------------------44.00--------------30.50-----------pass
carbon monoxide %---0.67-----------------1.80---------------0.03-------------fail
nox----------------------986------------------76.00------------443.00-----------pass

idle test
hc-------------------------83-------------------14----------------39-------------pass
co %---------------------0.51-----------------0.03-------------0.03------------pass

total work i have done since i owned the car, blown head gasget, replaced both, had heads shaved .004" each due to warping, replaced and laped all 16 valves, brand new sealed power valves, dayco pollycog belt, edelbrock true rolling timing chain, fenco waterpump, felpro gasgets, sealed power valve seals, c&l 73mm mass air with 19lb sample tube (readings are lower with c&l than with stock but i will try stock again tomorrow) autolite plugs, bosch wires, msd cap and rotor, i think that's it, if i think of anything else i will post it...


unless when i installed my tach i screwed up my coil ground, cuz i sorta had to cut ans splice a few times near the fire wall, it's kinda mickey mouse, and my tach has never worked properly anyways now that i think about it, every once in a while it spikes up to like 5000 rpm and back down like a flick, it's an auto gauge w/recal and shift light
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89 fox, mostly stock, C&L 73mm MAF, bypassed coolant hoses to egr spacer, intake silencer removal, no a/c, all options but power mirrors?? blown cats, msd cap and rotor, bosch wires, autolite plugs, 5 inch auto gauge tach with recal and blue lensed shift light, PAPER FILTER I BOUGHT ONE!!!!!!! felpro gasgets on everywhere accept oil pan and a nice big classic mustang decal on my back window

Last edited by 89stanger; 03-31-2005 at 11:12 PM.
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Old 04-02-2005   #19 (permalink)
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ummm did you have the distributor competley out? if so you could have put it back in a tooth off or even more...
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Old 04-03-2005   #20 (permalink)
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no, but it did occur to me last night that when i put my tach in i kinda butchered the coil ground from the distributer to the coil, and kinda spliced and lengthened and crimped and spliced some more, really micky moused, could this cause a weak spark? my tach has always acted kinda funny, spiking to 6000 rpm for a milisecond and then back to idle, does this once or twice then is fine for a while, only does this at an idle...
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89 fox, mostly stock, C&L 73mm MAF, bypassed coolant hoses to egr spacer, intake silencer removal, no a/c, all options but power mirrors?? blown cats, msd cap and rotor, bosch wires, autolite plugs, 5 inch auto gauge tach with recal and blue lensed shift light, PAPER FILTER I BOUGHT ONE!!!!!!! felpro gasgets on everywhere accept oil pan and a nice big classic mustang decal on my back window
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Old 04-03-2005   #21 (permalink)
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How is your smog stuff, and your cats???? Maybe its not working properly. Check the cats, Im not sure if they do anything to hydrocarbons, but I do know that emissions at idle are WAY worse than while driving, so if your cats are shot, maybe your car is fine. That would explain the good emissions while driving, and the terrible ones at idle. Just kind of a shot in the dark, good luck.
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