During the last month or so, I had replaced my EGR valve, and EVP sensor. I ran codes and it turned out to be low voltage.
Well the other day, I decided to spend a few hours with my volt-meter checking to see if I had any bad wires. I didn't. I decided to remove the EGR valve, and sensor; I checked them out, but they both appeared to be okay.
I plugged everything back in, and it seemed to clear the Check Engine light; that is until about 1/2 hour into my next trip. And since then, it has done the same thing.
On start up, the light remains off, but a little while later it appears; only to go off again a few minutes later. I love my car, but sometimes I feel like pulling over and beating the crap out of it....not really, but it sure gets me mad.
Any thoughts.
Peter
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89 LX Coupe - headers, Full 2 1/2 Flowmaster, UDP's, Sportline Springs, Adjustable shocks/struts, Alum. DS, Cobra Upper and Lower intake w/ 65 TB, Steeda Alum U&L arms, U&L Battle Boxes, BBK CC Plates, MM Bumpsteer, Steeda Adjustable R. Swaybar, FRPP 3.73's, front control arm bushings, Earls SS brake lines, 73mm Lincoln Calipers, SSBC rear disk kit, Steeda Triax shifter, Steeda Firewall adjuster and quadrant, Gforce 255-50's in back, 225's 50's in front.
I've had the same thing on a buick I worked on. check vacum lines under accelleration it would pull and open a crack in the line and when it released, it would seal back up. also make sure all electrical connections are on tight.. they may do the same.
I have checked to make sure that all the electrical connections are on tight, however, I did not do the same for the vaccuum lines.
Off hand, would you know which vaccuum lines I should check relating to the EGR. I know of the one directly attached to the head of the EGR, but not too sure of the other ones.
Also, I know there is vaccuum pressure there, but it doesnt feel like too much. Do you know approximately how much vaccuum the EGR requires to work effectively.
THanks Vortex.
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89 LX Coupe - headers, Full 2 1/2 Flowmaster, UDP's, Sportline Springs, Adjustable shocks/struts, Alum. DS, Cobra Upper and Lower intake w/ 65 TB, Steeda Alum U&L arms, U&L Battle Boxes, BBK CC Plates, MM Bumpsteer, Steeda Adjustable R. Swaybar, FRPP 3.73's, front control arm bushings, Earls SS brake lines, 73mm Lincoln Calipers, SSBC rear disk kit, Steeda Triax shifter, Steeda Firewall adjuster and quadrant, Gforce 255-50's in back, 225's 50's in front.
the EGR needs about 5 or 6 inches of vacuum to operate. the only time you should have vacuum there(at the EGR valve) is when you are above 2000 rpms(normally).
if you apply vacuum to the EGR valve at idle does the car stumble?
When I covered the solenoid with my finger, the car did die.
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89 LX Coupe - headers, Full 2 1/2 Flowmaster, UDP's, Sportline Springs, Adjustable shocks/struts, Alum. DS, Cobra Upper and Lower intake w/ 65 TB, Steeda Alum U&L arms, U&L Battle Boxes, BBK CC Plates, MM Bumpsteer, Steeda Adjustable R. Swaybar, FRPP 3.73's, front control arm bushings, Earls SS brake lines, 73mm Lincoln Calipers, SSBC rear disk kit, Steeda Triax shifter, Steeda Firewall adjuster and quadrant, Gforce 255-50's in back, 225's 50's in front.
I haven't tried to see if there is vacuum to the EGR at 2500rpms yet, but will tommorow.
Thanks for the help CJ.
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89 LX Coupe - headers, Full 2 1/2 Flowmaster, UDP's, Sportline Springs, Adjustable shocks/struts, Alum. DS, Cobra Upper and Lower intake w/ 65 TB, Steeda Alum U&L arms, U&L Battle Boxes, BBK CC Plates, MM Bumpsteer, Steeda Adjustable R. Swaybar, FRPP 3.73's, front control arm bushings, Earls SS brake lines, 73mm Lincoln Calipers, SSBC rear disk kit, Steeda Triax shifter, Steeda Firewall adjuster and quadrant, Gforce 255-50's in back, 225's 50's in front.
Check Engine Light progress 
