Will my brake master cylinder keep up with these upgrades?
Okay, I put the front spindles, 13" rotors, and calipers, rearend complete with 31 spline axles, 3.55 gears, and LSD and the rear 11.5" disks with calipers off of an '03 Mach 1 onto my '89 LX 5.0 vert. I ran into a couple problems with alignment and the brake fittings that were easily solved.
My question now is do you guys think my Master cylinder and brake booster will keep up? I don't have the back brakes hooked up yet, but I can tell you that the pedal feels kinda soft. There are no leaks in the system and the back brake T is blocked off. Also, it was bled twice after the new parts were installed.
I was thinking that a 93 Cobra brake booster and master cylinder would do the trick perfectly. The 93 Cobra's had 4 wheels disks, so it's built to handle the higher loads and pressures. I figure that would work pretty well. Tell me what you guys think.
Thanks!
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Stephen and the Blue Demon
89 LX vert
Holley 750, Edelbrock Vic Jr, TFS T/W heads, FRPP X cam, Crane 1.6 rr's, longtubes w/Dynomax Bullets, PA Super Comp C4 w/brake, Precision Performance Kwik Shift II, Art Carr 3200 w/ ballooning plate, NOS super powershot plate, complete UPR tubular front suspension w/coilover conversions on Lakewood 90/10's
While the stock MC will get the job done, you really should get the 93 Cobra MC to handle the larger volume the new calipers require. It iwll give you much better pedal feel.
When I swapped mine I got the SVO MC, and my stock one almost fit inside the new one.
If I find a wrecked 94-up v6, will I run into any fitment probs like you said you did? I didnt think that they changed the brakes much after 94 (until now with the '05). Also, what all do I need? Just axles, spindles, rotors, calipers, MC, and lines? Thanks.
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Cardinal Red '88 GT 5 speed, Cobra Upper/Lower, Dynomax complete Super-Turbo cat-back system, Turbo Coupe Rear 10" discs, 3:73 gears, SN95 Master Cylinder, Summit Racing adjustable proportioning valve, Spec Stage II kevlar clutch, steeda adjustable cable/quadrant, 73mm front calipers, P.A. Performance 130 amp alternator, 99 Contour Electric Dual Fans, Battery relocated, rebuilt 91 T-5, Mass Air conversion
Okay, I put the front spindles, 13" rotors, and calipers, rearend complete with 31 spline axles, 3.55 gears, and LSD and the rear 11.5" disks with calipers off of an '03 Mach 1 onto my '89 LX 5.0 vert. I ran into a couple problems with alignment and the brake fittings that were easily solved.
My question now is do you guys think my Master cylinder and brake booster will keep up? I don't have the back brakes hooked up yet, but I can tell you that the pedal feels kinda soft. There are no leaks in the system and the back brake T is blocked off. Also, it was bled twice after the new parts were installed.
I was thinking that a 93 Cobra brake booster and master cylinder would do the trick perfectly. The 93 Cobra's had 4 wheels disks, so it's built to handle the higher loads and pressures. I figure that would work pretty well. Tell me what you guys think.
Thanks!
A 93 Cobra Booster and M/C is the best Choice as the studs have the same threads as whats on your car. If you go to 94 / 95 GT, Cobra they will have metric threads. You can get a remanufactured 93 Cobra booster for about $100 by Cardone
If I find a wrecked 94-up v6, will I run into any fitment probs like you said you did? I didnt think that they changed the brakes much after 94 (until now with the '05). Also, what all do I need? Just axles, spindles, rotors, calipers, MC, and lines? Thanks.
You will have to stick with 94-98 rear axles as they are much wider starting in 99. 99 and up Front PBR Calipers are your best choice as 94- 98s are heavy and not near as efficient.
Yeah, Im debating between this and just buying a Baer kit later on, but 2k is sooooooo much money. I was thinking it would be cheaper to convert it now, and then go with some new calipers and nice rotors made for the SN95's cause it will be a cheaper kit, but i still dunno, thanks for the info though.
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Cardinal Red '88 GT 5 speed, Cobra Upper/Lower, Dynomax complete Super-Turbo cat-back system, Turbo Coupe Rear 10" discs, 3:73 gears, SN95 Master Cylinder, Summit Racing adjustable proportioning valve, Spec Stage II kevlar clutch, steeda adjustable cable/quadrant, 73mm front calipers, P.A. Performance 130 amp alternator, 99 Contour Electric Dual Fans, Battery relocated, rebuilt 91 T-5, Mass Air conversion
do not use the stock axles from a V6 with that 31 spline rear, get some good aftermarket ones like Strange. As for a booster, any SN95 booster (non 4.6) is bigger than yours, and is much needed. I would look at a 94-95 Cobra booster
Yeah, Im debating between this and just buying a Baer kit later on, but 2k is sooooooo much money. I was thinking it would be cheaper to convert it now, and then go with some new calipers and nice rotors made for the SN95's cause it will be a cheaper kit, but i still dunno, thanks for the info though.
You could always buy the M-2300-K kit, its cheaper than Baer!
If I find a wrecked 94-up v6, will I run into any fitment probs like you said you did? I didnt think that they changed the brakes much after 94 (until now with the '05). Also, what all do I need? Just axles, spindles, rotors, calipers, MC, and lines? Thanks.
On that I could not tell you. I do not know if the V6's have the same size brakes as the GT's and Mach 1's and such. They did put the 8.8 in the V6's anyway, right? I know the Fox 2.3L had the 7.5, but I dunno whether or not the V6 had the 8.8
Anyway, fitment-wise you will have to take the brakes, spindles, rotors, rearend (it's easier to do the whole rearend rather than mount the brake on the other one after you take them off and all that crap) and the lines the hook directly up to the calipers. You will have to get your stock lines plumbed to fit the new hoses. When you put everything on your car, the toe angle will be extremely bad. It will look like a pidgeon-toed 4th grader. Nothing the alignment shop can't fix though. If you have the money, I would actually say to go ahead and get the steering rack off of the donor car as well. You don't have to but if you get the new rack, then you shouldn't need to go to the alignment shop.
And yes, the MC you need to get as well. This seems like alot of work, but you can knock it out in a weekend.
Also, since you will have the rearend off of the car, you might consider doing U/L control arms while you're back there. If you have the money, I would do it. It would be a good time to replace or lube any bushings or parts in the front suspension/ steering system.
Good luck and let me know how it goes.
Oh and one more thing. Well, two more things. When you are getting the brakes off of the donor car, just cut the ABS lines. Your car does not have it so there is no point in trying to disconnect it or anything. Just chop it. And the other thing is that I couldn't get the line for my parking brake to reach the calipers. It's like 3 inches short. If you get it to work, let me know how you did it.
Laterz
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Stephen and the Blue Demon
89 LX vert
Holley 750, Edelbrock Vic Jr, TFS T/W heads, FRPP X cam, Crane 1.6 rr's, longtubes w/Dynomax Bullets, PA Super Comp C4 w/brake, Precision Performance Kwik Shift II, Art Carr 3200 w/ ballooning plate, NOS super powershot plate, complete UPR tubular front suspension w/coilover conversions on Lakewood 90/10's
Will my brake master cylinder keep up with these upgrades? 
Stephen and the Blue Demon
