Ok well I went to adjust my timing today, and I pulled the plug on the little injector like connector and attempted to set my timing. I put it at 14 degrees and it pinged like crazy. Then I adjusted it down from there. I got all the way to base timing (10 degrees BTDC), and it still pings?? Im only running 87 octane, but still.... Is there something wrong or what?
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Cardinal Red '88 GT 5 speed, Cobra Upper/Lower, Dynomax complete Super-Turbo cat-back system, Turbo Coupe Rear 10" discs, 3:73 gears, SN95 Master Cylinder, Summit Racing adjustable proportioning valve, Spec Stage II kevlar clutch, steeda adjustable cable/quadrant, 73mm front calipers, P.A. Performance 130 amp alternator, 99 Contour Electric Dual Fans, Battery relocated, rebuilt 91 T-5, Mass Air conversion
I would run the tank low and put in a few gallons of premium and give it a try again. I run 92 octane and have my timing at 18, without any ping. Don't lose the shorting plug.
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1992 LX hatchback, with 93' Cobra Motor and 5 speed,cobra intake(ported lower),GT-40 iron heads,FMS 65mm TB,F-303 cam,C&L 73mm mass, 24lb inj.,walbro 155fp,adj. reg,12" K&N cone,BBK short headers,BBK H-pipe, Flowmaster 2 chamber cat back,Eibach pro springs,17" cobra R rep. wheels, 245/45 front, 275/40 rear, goodyear eagle GSC's.
I'm not sure if this is the same problem I had but I used to have difficulty setting the timing on mine too. No matter if I advanced it, retarded it or set it right on 30 degrees it would ping. I tried different brand Premium fuels ( Octane 98 ) but no change, it would ping as soon as I sent it over 3000 rpm. It turned out to be my timing mark - it had slipped sideways giving me a completely false timing position and I believe the harmonic balancer rubber has a lot to answer for.
I was thinking about putting better gas in it, but then i was thinking that maybe my timing marks had the same slippage thing that you are talking about Vic. Im sure its the stock damper and it just seems off. I guess it really doesnt matter though, Ill just set it where it doesnt ping anymore...
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Cardinal Red '88 GT 5 speed, Cobra Upper/Lower, Dynomax complete Super-Turbo cat-back system, Turbo Coupe Rear 10" discs, 3:73 gears, SN95 Master Cylinder, Summit Racing adjustable proportioning valve, Spec Stage II kevlar clutch, steeda adjustable cable/quadrant, 73mm front calipers, P.A. Performance 130 amp alternator, 99 Contour Electric Dual Fans, Battery relocated, rebuilt 91 T-5, Mass Air conversion
StAnGaHoLiC
'95GT, S Trim, 306, AFR 185's, RPM intake, XE270HR cam, and the rest of the bolt ons.
Best run to date with old combo: 12.2 @ 116mph w/ 1.78 60' on ET Streets.
www.flowtechinduction.com <--- He knows cams!
I backed it off (down to 8) and it stopped. Maybe my balancer is off. It feels like it has plenty of power... I dont know.
This may cure that 1500 RPM idle you mentioned in your other thread.:thumbup
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1992 Deep Emerald Green Mustang GT Hatch, 5 speed, 2.73s, Mac fenderwell cold air intake, '93 Cobra MAF, Mac 70mm throttle body & spacer, Explorer intakes, Mac unequal headers & offroad pipe, Magnaflow catback, Walbro 110lph fuel pump, Jet adjustable FPR, MSD Blaster coil, Accel 8mm wires, FRPP aluminum quadrant, UPR firewall adjuster, stock cable, Granatelli upper control arms.
Waiting to go on: Granatelli lower control arms, and GT40 Iron heads!
It did fix it. It just seems weird that the timing had to be retarded so much. Can you put a harmonic balancer on slightly off? Ive never even removed one so I dont know. It is running good now though as far as timing goes, thanks guys
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Cardinal Red '88 GT 5 speed, Cobra Upper/Lower, Dynomax complete Super-Turbo cat-back system, Turbo Coupe Rear 10" discs, 3:73 gears, SN95 Master Cylinder, Summit Racing adjustable proportioning valve, Spec Stage II kevlar clutch, steeda adjustable cable/quadrant, 73mm front calipers, P.A. Performance 130 amp alternator, 99 Contour Electric Dual Fans, Battery relocated, rebuilt 91 T-5, Mass Air conversion
I think that with the Harmonic balancer's rubber ( damper? ) that its the timing mark that is physically moving from it's zero position which is then giving you the false reading. I've seen and felt a harmonic balancers' rubber let go - the whole car just shudders and slaps around which is very noticeable but you haven't indicated that.
It shakes a little at idle, but nothing that seems to indicate a serious shudder. The balancer looks to be wobblin very, very slightly and I will be replacing it soon regardless, but it's really not that bad, which is why i am surprised that the marks are off...
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Cardinal Red '88 GT 5 speed, Cobra Upper/Lower, Dynomax complete Super-Turbo cat-back system, Turbo Coupe Rear 10" discs, 3:73 gears, SN95 Master Cylinder, Summit Racing adjustable proportioning valve, Spec Stage II kevlar clutch, steeda adjustable cable/quadrant, 73mm front calipers, P.A. Performance 130 amp alternator, 99 Contour Electric Dual Fans, Battery relocated, rebuilt 91 T-5, Mass Air conversion
If you grip the balancer between your fingers and try and move it, I believe it should be rock steady. If it actually moves then the rubber might be damaged / worn. ( which would explain the timing mark moving )
In any case, it would explain the timing issue.
speaking of timing marks and shuddering...my car has a nasty roughness/studder at around 1000-1100 rpm. it also knocks on accel. and backfires every now and then when u let up the throttle. timing is set to 10 or 12 deg. and the balancer looks like it wobbles alot. what are the chances that my balancer is bad or that my mark moved and how do i tell?
Wobbly as in, very, wobbly?
Does your motor only shudder at low rpm?
A friend of mine with the same car and motor did have half his balancer rubber completely missing upon removal and inspection and his whole car shook quite roughly at idle up through 1500 rpm then smoothed out as the weight balanced itself. When he pushed it past 4000 rpm the weight moved and it got rough again.
Basically the weight should be tight and not be able to move in any way.
Seeing as my own timing mark has slipped but the idle is still smooth and even, I am just keeping an eye on it until the first hint that it's truly on the way out.
Stangboy5666 & 85stang, perhaps you could keep us informed of your solutions?
my balancer is quite wobbly (looks as if its out of round or something) and, yes, my engine does shake/jitter at low rpm's 1000-1200 and smooths out past there. i am in the process of changing my water pump so i cannot test the higher rpm range. the pulley and balancer and all are very tight and do not move when tested by hand, but, when the engine is running, the balancer looks more like a spinning oval/egg than a perfectly smooth, symetrical circle. i am assuming i need to take the balancer off in order to tell if my balancer and/or rubber is bad. would this be a correct assumption? and if one of those is bad...where o where would i get a new one?
Timing problems (pinging at only 10 degrees) 
