Proper way to adjust roller rocker arms? - Ford Mustang Forum
 
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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-11-2005 Thread Starter
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Proper way to adjust roller rocker arms?

I have some heads and rockers and other stuff on the way and I wanted to make sure I adjusted the rockers right.

Correct me if I am wrong/missing parts.

Firs pick the cylinder to work on.
Turn the crankshaft clockwise with a breaker bar until the pushrod that is in line with the header (exhaust valve) is about to come back up from the lowest point (now opening). There you adjust the intake valve (the pushrod not lined up with the header) rocker arm until you can barely twist the pushrod with your fingers (zero lash). At that point you give the rocker arm 1/2 to 3/4 more of a turn.

Continue to turn the break bar until that valve you just set (intake valve) is about to get to the lowest point begin to set the other valve lined up with the header (exhaust valve).

After that move onto the next cylinder.

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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-12-2005
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Until you can barely spin the pushrod in your fingers? You mean until you just start to feel drag on the pushrod as the lifter just starts to contact the rocker, that's zero lash.

Also. I've always adjusted one cylinder at a time by putting the lifter on the reverse slope of the cam lobe, I've used this method a few times with success.
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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-12-2005
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Your procedure will work. If you have the use of a dial indicator, I would measure .050 preload at the lifter. Check 2, 3 or 4 different lifters noting the rotation amount (1/2, 3/4, full turn) to get to the .050 preload. Then adjust the others to this amount.

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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-12-2005
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err, this might sound BS considering I have not work on valve clearance on a puch rod engine, yet. But, if you put your crank at TDC or BDC half the valves will be at its rest (for example: intake cyl 1 $ 4 closed, outtake valve 2 & 3 closed at TDC, turn crank another 360 degrees then the combination of opening will be the oppsite).

Then, use the filler gauge to adjust rocker to a spec. Make a note of which ones you have done at TDC and make sure all of the are done. I can't remember on top of my head which cylinder opens up at TDC, but you only need to turn crank twice. Once to find out TDC and turn 360 degrees.

Am I bull shitting or didn't I understand what you were trying to ask?
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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 10-13-2007
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Hmmm...I'm looking for some clarity on this issue too.
I have an E cam, 1.6 SVO pedestal mount non-adjustable roller rockers. My memory is that I installed them and torqued to 20 ft pounds (or maybe it was 24?) with the lifter on the round part of the lobe as Ghost Dog has said. This means that with the valve closed I can rather easily rotate the pushrods with my fingers, but they don't have any up and down play. I'm not aware of any excessive valve train noise either.

So, should I tighten them so the push rods are difficult to rotate? What do you think?

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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 10-13-2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GhostDog 5.0 View Post
I have some heads and rockers and other stuff on the way and I wanted to make sure I adjusted the rockers right.

Correct me if I am wrong/missing parts.

Firs pick the cylinder to work on.
Turn the crankshaft clockwise with a breaker bar until the pushrod that is in line with the header (exhaust valve) is about to come back up from the lowest point (now opening). There you adjust the intake valve (the pushrod not lined up with the header) rocker arm until you can barely twist the pushrod with your fingers (zero lash). At that point you give the rocker arm 1/2 to 3/4 more of a turn.

Continue to turn the break bar until that valve you just set (intake valve) is about to get to the lowest point begin to set the other valve lined up with the header (exhaust valve).

After that move onto the next cylinder.
That's the way I did mine, and from what I've read is a widely accepted way to set them. This is the EOIC method. There are other procedures that will work, but I find this to be the easiest way myself.

I would add to make sure you get the polylocks really tight, as I had a couple come loose on me. The second time I tightened them till I heard them "squeek", and had no farther problems.

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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 10-15-2007
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I understand the part about making sure the lifter is on the base circle part of the cam. That makes complete sense.

Where I need clarification is how tight should the push rods feel? Do you tighten these things by foot pounds or is it by feel and somewhere less than a full turn past the rocker arm making contact with the push rod's end?

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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 10-15-2007
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I kept tightening the poly lock while turning the push rod with my fingers till the push rod didn't want to turn anymore, then went 1/2 turn more. I've seen recommendations of 1/2, 3/4, and 1 full turn past zero lash. I run an X303 cam and the 1/2 turn seems to be working good for me.

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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 10-15-2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vetprowanab View Post
I understand the part about making sure the lifter is on the base circle part of the cam. That makes complete sense.

Where I need clarification is how tight should the push rods feel? Do you tighten these things by foot pounds or is it by feel and somewhere less than a full turn past the rocker arm making contact with the push rod's end?
if you have factory rockers then all you have to do is torque them down and i think its 24ft-lbs, they are called posostive stop and dont need any adjustment, i just installed my heads and i just torqed them down to 24ft-lbs(i think) and havnt had any problems

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Pedestal mount rockers (factory-style) are tightened down to zero-lash on the base circle (all up and down play at the pushrod eliminated) and then torqued to 24 ft-lbs.. but that 24 lbs should be hit between 1/4 to one full turn.... any less and you need shims under the rocker, any more, you need longer pushrods.

The procedure for stud-mount rockers is almost the same, except instead of torquing to 24 ft-lbs, just tighten 1/2 to one full turn from 0 lash and lock them in. Finding the correct pushrod length is a little more involved than with pedestal mount rockers though.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GhostDog 5.0 View Post
I have some heads and rockers and other stuff on the way and I wanted to make sure I adjusted the rockers right.

Correct me if I am wrong/missing parts.

Firs pick the cylinder to work on.
Turn the crankshaft clockwise with a breaker bar until the pushrod that is in line with the header (exhaust valve) is about to come back up from the lowest point (now opening). There you adjust the intake valve (the pushrod not lined up with the header) rocker arm until you can barely twist the pushrod with your fingers (zero lash). At that point you give the rocker arm 1/2 to 3/4 more of a turn.

Continue to turn the break bar until that valve you just set (intake valve) is about to get to the lowest point begin to set the other valve lined up with the header (exhaust valve).

After that move onto the next cylinder.
ghost dog did this work good for you i"ve got to set mine on some gt-40-p's with the stock rockers and push rods using the explorer motor with e303 cam
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I didnt read all the response but when i did my rocker adj i started with piston 1 TDC and i just it order of timing

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